E-City is Closing

Sadness has taken over the Weekend Bouldering Crew. Our home gym (Except for Luke) is closing for good! On June 22nd Electric City Rock Gym on State Street in Schenectady shall be no more. Andy, the faithful and great manager of the gym, is looking for a new location to re-open this Fall. Leaving us, for the summer, Gym-less. If you were connected to the gym in anyway, please come to a party on June 18th to give one last goodbye to our favorite place. Thanks to Andy for making it an amazing enviroment to climb in and for inspiring many of our crew to live well, climb hard and get strong.

-WB

Who cares about Gravity Brawl? Save Plastic for ABS Season.

SO all you people who were at the gravity brawl (Which isn't a lot because most of the people who read this blog are people I know and climb with and if I know and climb with you you were probably with me climbing outside and not the gravity brawl, this is a run-on sentence, which is okay since its in parenthesis and I am done now) we went up to the Adirondacks!

Spirits were high this morning, until a very depressing misting of rain dotted the windsheild on the ride up and we arrived at McKenzie to a light showering. The annoying kind of rain, not enough to lose all hope and head home and still enough to soak all of the things we wanted to do. Sweet. Luckily we hung around the I.F. Boulder and worked some silly sit-start-jingusness. The sun came through and soon the boulders were nice and dry. After fooling around a little longer at I.F. we went over to Slobodon and Stanfield (V5 and V9). I wanted to get Slobodon and Ben and Michael were interested in Stanfield. Adam resent Slobodon and I burned myself out on it, it hurts, a lot, and is a tad reachy, not my style.

We headed back to Flux Capacitor - V8 and Star Chores - V8. Ben and Michael worked Flux hard and Micheal sent! (With his happy tofu shirt nontheless) Then we went over to the boulder with Magnum and all that good stuff on it. I repeated Thrust Vault and Ben got Drop the Clutch - V5. We ended the day workin' that one. It's pretty cool. I'll post a video of Ben falling off Sit-Start-Jingusness (V8) later. Also I will add pictures to this post.

Next Weekend is Lost City or G.B. or McKenzie or someplace else.

-WB

3 Areas. One Weekend.

yes, read the title again. Im not lying. Last weekend we went to 3, count em, 3 boulderfields in the ADKs. First up was a trip up to mckenzie pond to finish up projects and start some new ones. Ben and I had our day set with the climbs we wanted. Ben wanted Magnum - V7 and Flux Capacitor - V8. I wanted to get I.F. - V5 and my project from last time, Thrust Vault - V3. As we arrived in the forest a familiar voice was on-top of the Slobodan boulder. It was Sam Sommers, a good friend that we met up with in Colorado. Kyle and some others met us up there.

We went straight back to the I.F. Boulder. Luke and Adam sent and Ben resent quickly, leaving me to work the crimp-tastic moves. Adam also got Slot Machine - V5 and Jess was SO INCREDIBLY CLOSE to getting Brock Lee Soares. Why Jess? You were SO close... I guess you need to come back! ANYWAYS! I got I.F. and it was joyous. While I was sending I.F. and trying to keep Luke from stealing my chalk brush. Ben was working his prize, Magnum. He sent before we could get over to see. 

When we arrived at the Boulder that houses Magnum and Thrust Vault (and others) Sam had been working Magnum hard. As he worked that, Luke worked Shut Up Machine - V9 making... progress... if you can call it that (heh sorry luke). Sam got Magnum and was psyched. I went over and worked Thrust Vault and did the "Dynamic" last move super static! :D Although I bumped my head on the Top-Off. ow. 

The day ended with Ben making huge progress on some Flux Capacitor. We headed out with hurting hands and happy hearts. 

Sunday is for resting.

Monday is for climbing.

We headed on down to Peterskill to once again, finish projects and find new ones. I was pretty burnt and didn't send much, but some other members in our group did pretty well!

Ben made excellent progress on Vortex Yoga - V9. Luke and Ben got Tiger Style - V7. (I got my project Mentos - V4 from a while back second go. yippee...) As the day drew to an end we headed over to near trapps.

After finding JINGUS beta to Waiting for the Messiah - V7, we went over to the pearl. We all made good progress and Luke sent! Nice work.

Until the next week.... which is tomorrow....

(Were going to McKenzie)

-WB 

Video.. word...

The Finer Points of RJD2... and a New Video....

So, lets just say I have been fond of a man who calls himself RJD2's music. Keyword is FOND. I had not heard the rest of his album Deadringer. However, yesterday I downloaded it... sweet jesus hes good. I cannot think of a better artist to climb to, edit climbing movies with or just relax and listen too. He mixes old blues/R&B songs with cool new rolling drum mixes and with smooth samples from various artists. The end-product is something I believe everyone must hear. Please, download something of RJD2's and bask in the glory of mash-up music. 

Also, there is a new movie of Snowy Moutain Boulders coming out today. Check the Videobar, or just wait for me to put it up. 

-WB

Hueco Tanks? Nah... Its the dacks.

As one looks upon the boulders at Snowy Mountain, confusion sets over them. WHAT IS THIS!? Where are my beloved crimps!? Why have my blocky jugs turned into wavey textured huecos and slopers!?!? AM I STILL IN NEW YORK!?

Well, yes, you are, and in a mighty good part of the state too! Yes this past weekend WB took its first trip out to Snowy Mountain boulders. Nestled in the heart of the Adirondacks, Snowy Mountain was very reminiscant of our trip to the South. Instead of the normal crimpy gneiss that the adirondacks is famous for, we got to play around on huge huecos and slopers. A very strange treat indeed.

The day started off hot and humid, but our hearts were inspired by the amazing quality problems all so close to eachother. And so began the sends. First stop was the Coitus Boulder which contained the five started V6 - Coitus, as well as a few other nice warm ups and a V10 Micheal and Ben wanted to try. While Ben and Michael polished Coitus off quick, Adam, Kyle and I were left to work out the moves. Coitus moves through pinches, crimps and huecos to a dynamic crux and a not-so-short top-out. The problem ended up being a test of determination. Adam, who had sent with the V4 top-out very quickly, was discouraged when he could not repeat to top it off the real way. I was discouraged after passing what I percieved as my personal crux, and falling off the top. However, we pushed on and got a good send. Kyle shall get Coitus another day.

As for the V10, it was Jingus, so we all moved on to the next gem on the Pancake boulder. IHOPP, a four starred V7 was quickly destroyed by Ben and Micheal. Adam, Kyle and I all tried, but could not pull that send train into the station.

Next came the BEAUTIFUL Cave Boulder. Nowhere else have I seen as amazing formations as here. A room sized cave splashes back into a 3 Inch Wide overhanging fin which extends for about 8-9 feet before curving back down into a strange Hammerhead feature. First came The Cure - V8. This problem starts on the fin and leads straight up and right to a very commiting roll-over top-out. Micheal sent, but everyone else found themselves a little too scared... Also on the boulder, The Sickness - V6 cuts an interesting line straight through the boulder to a scary but fun top-out. Kyle and Michael sent.

We then moved to some more quality problems, Never Been to Hueco and Never Left Hueco, a V8 and a V7. The V7 saw a quick send and after working the very dynamic last move, Ben sent strong.

We worked a few other problems, nothing note worthy, but fun! One thing was clear however, Snowy Mountain is sweet.

As we rapped up our day, it started to rain a little. It felt like it would blow through, so we took our time... little did we know... Within the next ten minutes the drizzle turned to a downpour with raging winds and distant thunder. There was no use avoiding it. And with heavy, wet packs soaked bodies, we began our long, moist ride home.

A movie with a couple of the sends from snowy will be coming out soon.

-WB

Yes... Finally....

Here she is. The beautiful, wonderous, kick-ass compilation of Sends in the South!!!
Please, do enjoy.

Dack Season

Oh yes, its that time of year. With barely any snowpack left up north, the wonderland of rock that is the Adirondacks awaits us. First place on our list? Good 'ol Nine Cornered Lake! Last Summer Nine Corners introduced many of our members to bouldering in general. The beautiful area boasts many good moderates and some hard stuff too. Lets see what this season has in store.

On Tuesday the 28th, Kyle and I headed down to the Lake after school

While the temps were great (Low 60's) there were rumors of rain, and sure enough after warming up and trying our hand at an old project Can You See My Eyeball? - V3, the clouds started crying. Because I wanted to get done with my own project Dave's Problem - V3, we headed over there quick in hopes of sending before texture was ruined. After working it hard, I sent Dave's and was very happy.

Next we worked The Origin - V4. The Origin is an area classic with super fun moves and an interesting top-out. Kyle got his repeat, and I found myself unable to link it together.

That next Saturday, we returned with Adam to get er done. (Can't believe I just said that...)

We started at the Origin. And after Kyle repeated, again, Adam sent. I was still working it. After many tries I got past my sticking point and began to work the top-out. But it was showing no mercy. I eventually sent using a variation top-out. Still full value, but not quite as classic. Yes there were more sends that day, including Long Live Legos - V5, Shape-Shifter - V5, and Daimond are Forever - V6. Overall, I would say a good day for Nine Corners.

 (In Memory of Ben, who was left to wait in line for a Job GOOD LUCK!)

Anywho, these last two days at Nine bring me to a point I would like to discuss. Not just any point either, its a point I like to call, the sticking point. We've all been there. I can do all the moves on that problem, every single one! No Problem! Except for this one. Well, I've got news, that move makes the problem. Some people call it the crux, meaning the universal hardest section of the climb, but I have found that the crux can be a different move for everyone on the same problem! 

I know I have put myself in situations where I can't get past my own "Personal" crux on a problem, and simply give up because I don't feel like failing on one move when I can do well on so many others. Failing is part of it all! If I didn't fail, how would I know what success is?

 I guess what I am trying to say is if you don't have to work to get a problem, whats the point in getting it. The question isn't whether or not you're going to have a sticking point. You will. The question is are you going to work past it? I'll let you decide.

-WB

Southern Sends Part 6: : L.R.C

Time to finish up the sends that got away yesterday.

After a dreaming of The Wave all night, my heart raced as we approached the aesthetic arete. I knew the moves, I knew the beta, I knew I could do it, but would I? Sure, I could say I was confident, but inside, as I put my hands in the beautiful starting hueco feature, I was trembling. I set my feet and went through the moves smoother than ever. And I sent. First try of the day, polishing off an the project. I can leave the south happy now.

Next we headed over to a problem we had checked out the day before, Shotgun - V6, named for the many small hueco pockets that dot the face, Shotgun was a fun, but reachy, climb. Adam suited up, worked out the beta, and sent.

Finally we went to Tri-Star, to give Adam his revenge on the problem. First go he made it further than ever, but fell due to terrible foot-hold. After lending him my Solutions, he hopped on, the determination was obvious. As he worked his way up the gaston-y crack, he set his feet, and made a final hop for the finish. Which he stuck valiently. A good send to end the day.

Southern Sends Part 5: L.R.C.

There was something in the air that tuesday morning as we awoke with rested bodies and sore fingers. Sure, the acuarium was fun, but now its on to the main attractions. We decided to steer clear of Rocktown and head to Little Rock City. A much closer destination, L.R.C. was only 15 minutes or so from our campsite, and quickly the crew was psyched for a day of sendage.

Once again, the boulders were nestled apon a random mountain top (starting to see another trend?) however, these rocks came equipped with their own town and... a golf course? Yes, thats right, directly next to the blocks is Mont Lake Golf Course. The owners of which graciously allow climbing to continue within the private property, as long as waivers are filled out and you're registered for the day. (There is a Limit on Climbers Daily)

Adam and JP checking out Art of the Vogi while Jess looks at a V2 next to it.

The boulders are visible from the trail, and as we entered the woods, a maze of rock surrounded us. Day 5 was now in session. We hopped on a classic V4 called Art of the Vogi. On Vogi, fun moves lead to a tricky and exciting top-out. Next we headed over to another ultra-classic, The Wave - V6. After having a local spray us down with beta, we began the funky tsunami curved arete. (Note the Video) Luke, Ben and Adam all sent, leaving me to work it out. Alas, the shut-down was severe, and I left The Wave with a bitter attitude. 

JP on The Wave - V6

Luke and Ben had gone off with a guy we met down there to check out some more problems. After working a few others, which mostly saw no sends, we headed on over to A Face in the Crowd - V7. This hidden crimp-fest was flashed by Ben, and sent by Luke. A proud addition to the WB Ticklist. We then headed over to the Dragon Lady boulder. There Jess onsighted Smog - V2, Ben (reluctantly) sent Dragon Lady - V4, and the rest of the crew checked out Tri-Star - V4. Tri-Star soon became the nemisis to Adam, who left the area feeling a lot like me. 

I don't know about him (or You), but I know that whenever I was reminded of my project, my stomach would turn, my palms would sweat, my mind becomes filled with beta, and the thought of the hopeful send clouds my head. I guess being shut-down is a neccesary section of climbing. Sometimes, you know you're stronger than a problem, but you find yourself unable to climb it. I think this is because you lack incentive to do the problem. It's not your fault that your cocky heading into a problem, a little confidence can help, but perhaps getting shut-down on something reminds us that even though a problem isn't our hardest grade, it can still put up a fight. Getting shut-down makes me feel like taking revenge on that problem, and I know next time I get on it, I'm going to give it hell. 

Climbing is style, not just 1 style either, many styles. And if that easy little V1 or V3 or V5 or V8 isn't your style, than you better work it like its as hard as your highest graded project. Because that send is more important than your highest grade.

And with that little tid-bit, I bid you adieu.

-WB