Hogwartz

After deciding that I should probably make some kind of attempt at climbing, mother nature decided to rain (or should I say take a massive snow dump) on my parade and send a couple feet to New Paltz, and nothing to Gore Mountain.

Everybody knows you simply cannot climb in the Adirondacks in winter, except when mother nature has gone bat shit crazy and is tossin' loads randomly and without any discernible purpose but to make me sad.

Adam and I went and checked out Murph's new spot in Pottersville called Friedman's Reality or Hogwarts. In conclusion, it's rad.

It's got probably as many boulders as McKenzie, if not more, but there aren't as many lines on each boulder as McKenzie. Some boulders are a heartbreaking mix of perfect size, awesome pitch, no holds (the Adirondack's favorite trick) but most have at least one to five solid lines.

There are a few lines that need mentioning and a few boulders that will be area classics, as long as the access doesn't get destroyed: it's hanging on a thread right now, someone should alert the DEA of a possible meth lab at the top of the hill. I don't know if it's actually a meth lab, but it's near awesome boulders, so they must leave.

By the Meth Lab, there is one. Massive. Boulder. It's about 25-30 feet tall (not an exaggeration) overhung over a flat landing and with two obvious lines up the tallest part. One line is a meandering criss crossing crack line that shouldn't be too hard, but it's long and REALLY tall, and the other has potential to be another classic, hard, Adirondack highball.

I must say, if access is secured this place will be about double the size of Snowy, and with lines on par with the highest grade climbs in the Dacks. Really, the only thing holding it back is the access. The approach is short and easy, the boulders are many and rad, and the people are sketchy and reclusive (and maybe addicted to meth). If we get a few more days of sun, I might head back up there to get me some FAlalalalas.

Consider this your Merry Christmahannakwanzakah. And a happy new years.

Sorry for the lack of pictures

-WB

Murph and Jut at Gnarnia

The kids spent a little time at the Gnar and nabbed some sends including the FAs of two new problems, Sleepyhead Stand - V7/8 and Vanilla Dreams - V5/6, and a couple repeats/sends of Unicorn of the Sea Stand. The epic problem is settling into the grade of V8, and the sit down is DESTINY.

Destiny.

News and Boredom

There is absolutely no point to this post besides me searching for a way to pass the time.

Chatted with Murph today. He's been out on the hunt for boulders around the Tupper Lake (Nine Corners) region; however, he recently shifted his focus to the Brant Lake (Gnarnia) area. The rock is all there, but access issues might block or limit the climbing.

He visited the Gnarwhal today to suss out the Unicorn of the Sea SDS project. He cleaned some holds, moved some rocks, and is psyched to start work. It's open season now.

Next week, I've got a bunch of days off, and given my lack of climbing these past few weekends, I hope to accomplish a few tasks.

1. I want to go to Gull Pond.

2. I want to go to New Paltz or Great Barrington

3. I want to go back to Gnarnia and check out surrounding rock

4. I want to go back to Old Bridge (Padanarum Road)

Hopefully, I'll achieve at least one of these and maybe, just maybe, I'll get it all done.

I need a damn license.

-WB

Climbing FO' FREE

There we were, pulled over on the shoulder of the road, the massively majestic Trapps filling the windshield of Ryan's periwinkle blue, 1980 Mercedes-Benz. We stared at the light tan ridge in silent debate, we could go to the Carriage Path, pay 15 dollars, and destroy our projects in the ideal conditions, or, we could take the right turn in front of us and head towards Triple Right.

Despite quiet, frustrated murmurs from Tyler, we took the right. 

Before long, we were sitting beneath Neapolitan, a classic V5 I sent last year (video), but something was wrong. It felt really hard. We quickly spotted a key hold breakage on the beautiful prow, making the send even more elusive. Eventually, Tyler sent with an incredible show of effort, which prompted him to confirm that the new problem was, in fact, not V5. For all intents and purposes, it's now Metrosexual - V6/7.

JP sets up to throw off of a bad sloper and a small slot

JP sticks the jump

We then spent some time on some other warm-ups, including a fun dyno and two semi-highball moderates.

Ryan Konopinski makes quick work of the dyno.

Since the moment we began considering Triple Right as a destination, a single motivation had consumed me, I had to send Gillete, a V6 that had thwarted my best efforts last year.

Ryan topping out a beautiful boulder.

The problem starts on two namesake crimps, which rip at your finger tips until specks of white bone begin to poke out of the bloody stumps you call fingers. It then moves to an incredible pinch with a surprisingly sharp thumb catch, and ends on an incredible, blind toss for an edge near the lip. I had never caught that toss. I would today.

Preparing to launch on Gillete - V6.

My fingers seemed to snap back into my palms, reluctant to touch the razor starting crimps, but after conditioning my fingers to handle the pain, my attempts became better and better.

 An unassuming Tyler stepped up to the two crimps and took off. He set up for the jump and threw. Suddenly, a sound emerged from Tyler that I have never heard a living thing make. He caught the hold. He did not swing. He just yelled. This roar erupted from Tyler and echoed amongst the trees for at least 10 minutes after he sent. Ryan and I stood with slack jaws.

Tyler also gave some good goes on Steppin' Razor - V9 (previously V10), and unlocked some key beta on the incredibly aesthetic and terrifying blade.

Tyler trying not to get cut by the beautiful Steppin' Razor - V9.

Before moving on, I wanted a few last attempts on Gillete. I wasn't going to leave without a send. I stepped up to the crimps and, for once, they didn't hurt that bad, infact, they were almost inviting me to climb on them. Before I knew it, I was on top of the boulder doing a send dance.

On of many near misses on Gillete - V6.

Tyler also sent Pussy Willow - V6, giving him at least three V6 sends for the day, and a plethora of other sends as well.

Tyler making a big move on Pussy Willow - V6.

But our day wasn't over.

We rushed over to the Carraige Path, arriving at 5:30, an eerie mist creeped over the town of New Paltz as daylight disintegrated. We flew up the stairmaster in record time, and best of all, we didn't have to pay. We arrived at the Yikes corridor to meet Tyler's friends Matt, Noah and Noah. Matt was tantalizingly close on Yikes - V9 (The problem everybody is working, and nobody is sending!) and Tyler  realized he was too tired to work on the problem tonight.

We topped our night off with a headlamp session at Black Boulder. I sent 4 times. Ryan got VERY close.

The true end to our evening was at Mexicali Blue.

The end.

-WB

Not That Day

The atmosphere hung still and cold by the boulders at Great Barrington. A warming, golden sunlight filtered through the leaves, spilled down from above onto a few chalky, white splotches of rock. It was nothing short of beautiful.

Our palms began to sweat.

Upon touching our tantalized fingers to the grey and orange stone, the rock bit back with a cold which pervaded our being far deeper than just our finger tips. That biting cold found it's way into a corner of our brain reserved only for climbing, and upon arriving, opened a dusty doorway into a niche reserved only for days like this; fall climbing days when perfection is defined.

This was it.

We warmed up and determined the plan of attack for the day; given conditions like this, one must remain disciplined and organized to take full advantage and accomplish our respective goals. I began trying The Prow Traverse - V5, an old, pumpy project of mine, which, on this day, felt far easier. I sent shortly.

Friend topping out the traverse

We dragged our pads down the leafy dirt hill and threw them down under The Probe - V8. Tyler proceeded to dispatch the problem in two, overlapping pieces. We began resting as the sound of rustling leaves alerted us to company. I can honestly say that, in most cases, I thoroughly enjoy meeting and befriending new people through bouldering. It's one of the aspects of the sport that sets it apart from others, and attracts me to it, and these people seemed to be as excited as we were about the beautiful day.

Tyler and I decided that this was the day, the day that we would crush numerous problems, regardless of grade, or style, or height. On a day like this, when our bodies move more freely and delicately from hold to hold, and we find ourselves sitting at the tops of boulder problems, we could do anything.

Tyler sat down beneath The Probe and began what was likely his send attempt.

He reached the namesake hold.

Something went wrong.

In the next few, blurry moments, a loud, cracking thud echoed off of the pines and withing all of the climbers watching. Tyler was on the pad, and the probe was on him. The unthinkable had happened; the probe was broken; this was not the day.

This was not that day.

Bewildered, half-true jokes were made at Tyler. Stunned faces stared blankly at the brown silhouette scar left by the break. Frantic hands caressed the scar for signs of a new hold. All that was left were two, horrid crimps.

JP slaps the sloper on The Egg.

So what? We had to move on, and although Tyler's morale was a bit wounded, we kept climbing; there was nothing else to do. I tried The Egg - V6 a bit, and sent The Prow Dyno - V4/5, as a heart-broken Tyler went to the speed boulder to sit and think about what he had done.

Friend on The Dyno.

We met back up and went to a new area five minutes or so past the Erkenen boulder. Tyler showed me an incredible boulder, displaying the best rock I have seen at Great Barrington, as well as a few hard problems like Kindred Spirits - V9 and True Bleau - V10ish. Next, we explored a bit and found ourselves at The Cube boulder. Whose beautiful, tall, proud face required a visit from us that day.

We set our pads underneath the least intimidating line on the boulder and began work. After a few goes, we both sent what we both decided was "the best V2 I have ever climbed", as it would be, we were climbing on a V4 known as Rubiks Cube. A deadpoint move to a perfect crystal-pinch leads to a heady top-out and incredible view.

Rubiks Cube

We ended our day at Snooze Button. Where we both decided we were done climbing.

We hadn't had that day, but we had a day, and, hell, the day we had was pretty fucking sweet. Climbing sometimes teases me and leaves me wanting more from it, but the moment I start to doubt my passion for it, it drags me back in with a day like this one.

Fading light on Snooze.

Thanks, Tyler, for making this day as awesome as it was, and for breaking The Probe, because if that problem was still there, we wouldn't have had the day we did.

It wasn't even that great a problem, anyway.

-WB

Dude...

... Look what I did to The Probe...

Guess what!

No, I didn't go climbing...

... but I am trying to set something up for this weekend.

Here's the plan:

Saturday - New Paltz (Lost City? Northeast?) for the Reel Rock Film Tour.

Sunday - Gull Pond to develop some rad-ass boulders.

Monday - I don't know.

If anyone would like to help me accomplish these goals.

Comment, call, text, mail, come find me.

I want rock.

-WB

Busy Busy Busy Busy

Busy Busy Busy Busy.

As the summer came to a close, I began mentally preparing myself for the hardships Junior year was sure to bring me.

But I could never prepare myself for the unthinkable.

Let's see if you can sympathize. I wake up Saturday and open my window to perfect overcast skies, 60-70 degree weather (perfect flannel weather), the air is dry and there is a slight breeze.

And I am not on a rock.

Why aren't I on a rock?

1. I don't have a license.

2. I am busier than I have ever been.

3. None of the excuses seem good enough for me.

I don't want to talk about it.

-WB

The Fall's Coming

Look guys, I'm sorry the blog posts have been few and far between these past few months, but with so much constant climbing, it can be hard for a little blogger like me to keep up with it all.

However, with Summer winding down and Sendtember right around the corner, I'm excited to start supplying you with content at least once every two weeks.

Truth be-told, it's been strange for me to consider updating a blog entitled "Weekend Bouldering", when I'm finding myself drawn away from the pebbles and towards the cliffs, rope and quickdraws in hand.

Don't get me wrong, I love bouldering and it will always have a place in my heart. Lately, however, bouldering has left something to be desired. Something that can only be found 60 feet up, bouldering above your bolt.

You'll notice I used the word "bouldering" to describe my experiences in sport climbing. At this point, I don't think I could completely focus on one discipline or the other. While sport climbing gives me the sustained movement and feeling of "getting somewhere", bouldering helps me hone in on the short bursts of power I need to help excel at sport. I don't boulder as practice for sport, and I don't sport climb as practice for bouldering.

All of my climbing is practice for harder and better climbing.

While, I will admit, I'm still not completely comfortable above my bolt (likely my biggest downfall... pun intended) and I struggle heavily on the route-y sections of climbs, with many holds and not a lot of beta, I'm learning, growing, and becoming a more well-rounded climber because of it.

For those of you who have read all this, I'll reward you with a slew of pictures.

For those who haven't... you get to see them anyway...

RUMNEY:

Michael, Murph and I spent a weekend at Rumney, I sent my first 5.12 (Social Outcast) and we had a grand ol' time.

Me on my next project, Techno Surfing - 5.12b

Michael working Livin' Astro - 5.14c

Waimea - 5.10d

Michael styling up Big Kahuna - 5.13a

Murph on Suburban - 5.13a

Me sending Social Outcast - 5.12a

Unpsyched

SMUGGLER'S NOTCH:

The following weekend, Adam, Izzy, Evan, Morgan and I hauled up to Smuggler's Notch to climb on the beautiful blue-schist boulders that line the steep Green Mountain pass. The road's were tight, the boulders were large and the lines were fun.

Adam working on Backwards Reflector - V5

Adam with a game-face on Nemesis - V5

Me on the frustrating Impossible Problem - V8/9

Evan's fingers.

The throw off of tiny crimps on Impossible Problem.

Adam finishing Primate 2000 - V3

Evan nearly sending Impossible Sit - V11/12

Rumney Overview

Oh, the powerful truth inscribed on that shirt.

There was quite the party at Rumney this weekend. Despite not having sport climbed in a year and succumbing to a crippling pump several times during our visit, I managed to climb a lot of great routes in the 5.10-12 range and found a creature dwelling quietly inside of me... I really enjoy sport climbing.


I'll do a huge post with photos and such later. Now, it's time to rest and come up with a new name for the blog... I may not exclusively be a weekend boulderer anymore.

-JP

Beach Bouldering Video

Nick, from Eastern Climber is putting together a kick-ass video of our beach bouldering trip. Also, I have added his blog to the blogroll, he's got an incredible website with posts on areas, reviews, commentary on climbing and more! Be sure to check it out.

Beach Bouldering in the Northeast

Yes, you read that title correctly.

This past weekend, Nick, two new friends Amanda and Kevin and I set forth on an epic journey to the North Shore of Long Island. Our minds were filled with whimsical stories of incredible granite boulders that litter the coastline of East Marion... but I had my suspicions. Surely, such a place couldn't exist in New York!

We arrived at the Wildwood State Park campsite late on Friday and were greated by 7001 degrees Celsius heat and a 500% humidity. Every ten minutes or so a group of drunken men with a lantern who's brightness rivaled the sun would shout "YEAAAH!". And just to make sure we didn't sleep, an angry Chinese woman banged on our tent at around 3 in the morning, yelling in Chinese. We awoke at 5 to the sound of ducks quacking.

But us boulderer's are resilient, and after some chocolate chip pancakes and coffee, we were on our way.

Before we knew it, we were walking down the many steps, a landscape of winding coastline and... no, it couldn't be! boulders? Our paces sped up as we passed boulders that seemed to grow bigger and bigger until in the distance we saw it, a house sized, orange, granite boulder placed 10 feet from the water.

We began goes on a very fun V4 that centers around one dynamic move to a jug. After taking it down, we tried the low-start into the V4 that goes at V7. We worked out some beta and after several goes I pieced it together and sent! Probably my fasted sending of a V7 to date.

There is a certain laid back quality to beach bouldering... dips in the ocean between goes... girls in bikinis strolling by... and despite the hot Summer sun, the rock stayed full of friction!

Nick began working on his project from his last visit, an interesting traverse which we could not decide the grade on. He pieced it together slowly, and eventually took it down! I got to play around with my 50 mm lens on this one, and I'm very happy with the results.

We played around on a few more climbs, our bud Kevin took down a technical V6, our other friend Pat played around on a ridiculously crimp tall man project (probably like V10) and we explored the beach and found some great new lines on the most beautiful boulder I have ever seen.

After a night touring the streets of beautiful Port Jefferson, and observing the stunning sunset, we returned to the campsite and, against all odds, slept well with a day of sun, surf and bouldering pulsing through our systems.

The next day, we climbed on a different boulder and put up three new lines at V2, V2 and Vsomethinghigherthan4. I got close on the V6 traverse, but greased off the top-out, twice. We spent the last few hours bullshitting and taking pictures.

It was quite the adventure.

-WB