Sunday, April 19, 2009

A Sample of the South

JP on The Wave - V6 at Little Rock City
(MORE FOOTAGE TO COME)


Southern Sends Part 4: RESTDAY!!!

It rained last night. And as we woke up to face the soggy day of planned trad, we decided to go visit the aquarium instead.

Its a very nice aquarium but, no sends....
Heres a picture of a cuddlefish.

Southern Sends Part 3: Rocktown

Day 2:

The crew woke up ready for sends and to find some more easter eggs of sorts within the magical world of Rocktown. Today we would be skipping the Orb boulders and the Vagina for the other side of Rocktown. After warming up at a cool wall called the Hueco Simulator, we roamed back towards Nose Candy and Sherman Photo Roof. Where after a few tried Ben sent Sherman, a proud send for the weekend bouldering crew. 

Next we strolled on over The Pythagorean Theorem A.K.A. Asphalt - V5. Luke, Ben, Adam and I all sent (Luke, Adam and I in no shirts I might add), leaving Jess to work it to the core. After incredible effort she unfortunaly could not send. Next it was over to Triple Slaps - V3. A SUPER COOL problem with a tricky double undercling start. After that it was... well... how do I put this?... Lets just say if God made these boulders, he was having a very strange day when he made this one. Aptly named for its resemblence to... well... Mr. Stiffy - V5. Yes, laugh it up. We all sent. Or at least, we thought we all sent, as it turns out the problem is an eliminate. The way we did it the problem was more like V2/3. Still fun though...

Jess Jablonski on Asphalt A.K.A. The Pythagorean Theorem - V5

We then worked our way to another classic! The Scoop - V3. Picture a boulder like an ice cream dollop, dotted with mono-pocket sprinkles. Now picture someone took an ice cream scoop, and scooped out the main face of that boulder. And there you have The Scoop. Luke sent in street shoes many a time. Ben and Adam sent. And I, although I finished the crux move, was unable to send. We finished our day on The Hobbit - V5, another fairly easy climb with a tricky top-out... Im starting to see a trend here...

-WB

Southern Sends Part 2: Rocktown

Ah yes, the dirty south. Full of hearty foods, strange fast-food joints, friendly people and of course... some of the best bouldering the world over. 

As we arrived at Raccoon Mountain Campgrounds Friday night,  camp was set up and dinner was served with a tantalizing anxiousness caused by the knowledge of what tomorrow would bring, quality sandstone at Rocktown, GA. After scanning the guidebook numourous times we all selected problems each of us wanted to 
hit up. (Taking into consideration the ticklist of problems we HAD to hit up provided by Nyle). And so we laid our heads down with a curiousness of what southern sandstone would really be like. We soon got the answer to that question.


DAY 1.

I guess I should start with where Rocktown is. After traveling across the border into middle-of-nowhere, Georgia, we found ourselves in a mess of farmland and mountains. It is upon one of these mountains where a random erray of boulders decided to rest, and it is up this same mountain that a terryfying road full of insane U-Turns and Guardrail-less drop-offs leads to a parking lot that allows access to these boulders. Now for the meat of the story.

Sandstone is amazing. If you've never climbed it, its very rough, very slopy and almost never blocky. The first problem any of us tried was one called Double Trouble - V4. Its a sweet traverse out a roof to a patented Rocktown top-out. It is in this same grouping of boulders where an area classic resides. If you've heard of rocktown, you've heard of this problem. Soap on a Roap - V4 (+2) is the HARDEST FRIGGING FOUR EVER. Fun moves lead to the top-out of all top-outs. Fortunatly two members of our group saw sends on this classic, Adam and Ben both defeated the slopers and stood valiently ontop of
 the boulder.
Jess Jablonski on Double Trouble - V4

After working a few other problems (mostly nameless) we treked to find Golden Harvest Boulder, where Golden Showers - V6 was. Unfortunatly, we could not find it, so we headed back up the hill to The Vagina - V8. The V is an endurency, underclingy problem that Luke and Ben worked hard, but, it saw no sends (Except by a local). As they worked that, Adam and I worked 
another classic, Island of Beautiful Women - V4. Super grainy rock with interesting beta leads to a commiting and exciting top-out. Adam sent, I did not.

We then worked our way over to two very aesthetic problems, Nose Candy - V6 and Sherman Photo Roof - V7. Ben hopped on Nose Candy and got the flash on this dynamic crimp-fest. As the rest of our group worked it, our fingers soon paid the price. (The holds on that problem are some of the sharpest I have ever climbed on). We spent a good amount of time on those two climbs but alas, no sends. And so, after receiving an etiquete lesson, we moved up to New Sheriff in Town - V5. Definatly a cool problem but, no sends. 


Adam Catalano on Nose Candy - V6


And that was it for Day 1. But we still had skin and there was still sandstone to be sent. We would return to Rocktown the next day to destroy what had defeated us last time. 

-WB




Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Southern Sends Part 1

Don't get all excited, we aren't out of the woods yet (If by woods you mean upstate New York). No, this is merely the prologue of a series of posts pertaining to our upcoming trip to Chattanooga, Tennessee. Yes, tomorrow we will be leaving for the warmer temps and softer rock of the South, and enjoying the plethora of hard-core bouldering and climbing the area has to offer. Our crew will be consisting of Adam, Luke, Ben, a friend of ours named Jess, and another chaperon named Mechelle. Below is a crude outline of the activities.

DAY 1, FRIDAY: Arrive in Tennessee. Most likely no climbing, but we will get ourselves situated.
DAY 2, SATURDAY: Bouldering in Little Rock City.
DAY 3, SUNDAY: Bouldering in Little Rock City
DAY 4, MONDAY: Rest day for some rope climbing at T-Wall. Mock-Trad, Leading, Top-Roping.
DAY 5, TUESDAY: Bouldering at Rocktown, GA
DAY 6, WEDNESDAY: Bouldering at Rocktown, GA
DAY 7, THURSDAY: Area of choice. (Horsepens 40 maybe?)
DAY 8, FRIDAY: Head home.

NOTE: This schedule is completely flexible. The blog will be updated DAILY, pictures and all, so check back for changes in schedule and the daily send count.

Enjoy your break everyone,
-WB

Sunday, April 5, 2009

Triple Right Video

Sorry for the long wait, my computer contracted a virus which had to be removed over the course of two weeks. However, here it is, in all its glory, the amazing Triple Right send footage:
The first problem is Neapolitan - V5 sent by JP. The second is Gillete - V6 done by some guy we met out there. The last problem is Uptown Girl - V3. If you are wondering, yes, Mark's shoe did fall off while climbing it. 

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