However, with Summer winding down and Sendtember right around the corner, I'm excited to start supplying you with content at least once every two weeks.
Truth be-told, it's been strange for me to consider updating a blog entitled "Weekend Bouldering", when I'm finding myself drawn away from the pebbles and towards the cliffs, rope and quickdraws in hand.
Don't get me wrong, I love bouldering and it will always have a place in my heart. Lately, however, bouldering has left something to be desired. Something that can only be found 60 feet up, bouldering above your bolt.
You'll notice I used the word "bouldering" to describe my experiences in sport climbing. At this point, I don't think I could completely focus on one discipline or the other. While sport climbing gives me the sustained movement and feeling of "getting somewhere", bouldering helps me hone in on the short bursts of power I need to help excel at sport. I don't boulder as practice for sport, and I don't sport climb as practice for bouldering.
All of my climbing is practice for harder and better climbing.
While, I will admit, I'm still not completely comfortable above my bolt (likely my biggest downfall... pun intended) and I struggle heavily on the route-y sections of climbs, with many holds and not a lot of beta, I'm learning, growing, and becoming a more well-rounded climber because of it.
For those of you who have read all this, I'll reward you with a slew of pictures.
For those who haven't... you get to see them anyway...
RUMNEY:
Michael, Murph and I spent a weekend at Rumney, I sent my first 5.12 (Social Outcast) and we had a grand ol' time.
Me on my next project, Techno Surfing - 5.12b
Michael working Livin' Astro - 5.14c
Waimea - 5.10d
Michael styling up Big Kahuna - 5.13a
Murph on Suburban - 5.13a
Me sending Social Outcast - 5.12a
Unpsyched
SMUGGLER'S NOTCH:
The following weekend, Adam, Izzy, Evan, Morgan and I hauled up to Smuggler's Notch to climb on the beautiful blue-schist boulders that line the steep Green Mountain pass. The road's were tight, the boulders were large and the lines were fun.
Adam working on Backwards Reflector - V5
Adam with a game-face on Nemesis - V5
Me on the frustrating Impossible Problem - V8/9
Evan's fingers.
The throw off of tiny crimps on Impossible Problem.
Adam finishing Primate 2000 - V3
Evan nearly sending Impossible Sit - V11/12
Been waiting for you to get psyched on sport too. Just gotta be open to NY sport climbing as well. And learning to read routes and make them flow for you will come with practice.
ReplyDeleteB-b-b-but Rumney is so nice.
ReplyDeleteAnd New York is so...... gneiss.
See what I did there?
Glad you liked smuggs. The way your buddy was trying the sit to ip is closer to hard 9 - easy 10. The 11/12 grade comes going right around the corner.
ReplyDeleteHmm. Well, I don't have much of a say in the grade, seeing as I could not do the problem (ever), but if the stand was 8/9, the sit looked to add another v10 or v9 section into it, maybe v10/11 is a more appropriate grade?
ReplyDeleteThe stand (going left) - hard 7 maybe 8. Going right hard 8 maybe easy 9. The way your friend tries the sit does not add much - however going right around the arete is another story.
ReplyDeleteThe hold used to be a large jug that was pretty sharp - someone filed it done this spring and in mid july the hold broke. Essentially the IP felt pretty hard post break - but after doing it a few times in colder temps - I think the above grades are on par.
I told Murph to pass on my number for a tour. The majority of the good problems are not in the guide.
Yeah, the temps were nice, but it's a really particular, low percentage boulder problem. I could see it being easier with some work.
ReplyDeleteAnd yes! We met a guy who worked at the information desk who showed us a bunch of cool problems. I can't believe how much rock there is. The possibilities are endless.
The picture doesnt do it justice. I just did the sit this weekend(im the climber in the pic above) and its by far the hardest thing i've climbed. I've done 3 other 11s and worked many 12s and i'd say its on par with the 12s. The rail for the 5 to the left is where i was starting and moving up to a micro crimp about 4 ft up, crossing into another decent crimp and moving into impossible problem. Bill Patton was there when i did it, (if you're a local, you'll know him) and he was confident in my 11/12 grade. Its apparently a 2nd ascent post hold break.
ReplyDelete