Despite quiet, frustrated murmurs from Tyler, we took the right.
Before long, we were sitting beneath Neapolitan, a classic V5 I sent last year (video), but something was wrong. It felt really hard. We quickly spotted a key hold breakage on the beautiful prow, making the send even more elusive. Eventually, Tyler sent with an incredible show of effort, which prompted him to confirm that the new problem was, in fact, not V5. For all intents and purposes, it's now Metrosexual - V6/7.
JP sticks the jump |
Since the moment we began considering Triple Right as a destination, a single motivation had consumed me, I had to send Gillete, a V6 that had thwarted my best efforts last year.
The problem starts on two namesake crimps, which rip at your finger tips until specks of white bone begin to poke out of the bloody stumps you call fingers. It then moves to an incredible pinch with a surprisingly sharp thumb catch, and ends on an incredible, blind toss for an edge near the lip. I had never caught that toss. I would today.
My fingers seemed to snap back into my palms, reluctant to touch the razor starting crimps, but after conditioning my fingers to handle the pain, my attempts became better and better.
Ryan topping out a beautiful boulder. |
The problem starts on two namesake crimps, which rip at your finger tips until specks of white bone begin to poke out of the bloody stumps you call fingers. It then moves to an incredible pinch with a surprisingly sharp thumb catch, and ends on an incredible, blind toss for an edge near the lip. I had never caught that toss. I would today.
Preparing to launch on Gillete - V6. |
My fingers seemed to snap back into my palms, reluctant to touch the razor starting crimps, but after conditioning my fingers to handle the pain, my attempts became better and better.
An unassuming Tyler stepped up to the two crimps and took off. He set up for the jump and threw. Suddenly, a sound emerged from Tyler that I have never heard a living thing make. He caught the hold. He did not swing. He just yelled. This roar erupted from Tyler and echoed amongst the trees for at least 10 minutes after he sent. Ryan and I stood with slack jaws.
Tyler also gave some good goes on Steppin' Razor - V9 (previously V10), and unlocked some key beta on the incredibly aesthetic and terrifying blade.
Before moving on, I wanted a few last attempts on Gillete. I wasn't going to leave without a send. I stepped up to the crimps and, for once, they didn't hurt that bad, infact, they were almost inviting me to climb on them. Before I knew it, I was on top of the boulder doing a send dance.
On of many near misses on Gillete - V6. |
Tyler also sent Pussy Willow - V6, giving him at least three V6 sends for the day, and a plethora of other sends as well.
We rushed over to the Carraige Path, arriving at 5:30, an eerie mist creeped over the town of New Paltz as daylight disintegrated. We flew up the stairmaster in record time, and best of all, we didn't have to pay. We arrived at the Yikes corridor to meet Tyler's friends Matt, Noah and Noah. Matt was tantalizingly close on Yikes - V9 (The problem everybody is working, and nobody is sending!) and Tyler realized he was too tired to work on the problem tonight.
We topped our night off with a headlamp session at Black Boulder. I sent 4 times. Ryan got VERY close.
The true end to our evening was at Mexicali Blue.
The end.
-WB
whats broken on neopolitan?
ReplyDeleteBilly Joel
The hold on the arete next to the bad pinch.
ReplyDeletethe left hand crimp that was kinda moon shaped?
ReplyDeleteBilly Joel
Tyler is swoll!
ReplyDeleteShits not much harder. Maybe solid V5 now. Still called neapolitan.
ReplyDeletesick pics.very nice.post more
ReplyDelete