Our palms began to sweat.
Upon touching our tantalized fingers to the grey and orange stone, the rock bit back with a cold which pervaded our being far deeper than just our finger tips. That biting cold found it's way into a corner of our brain reserved only for climbing, and upon arriving, opened a dusty doorway into a niche reserved only for days like this; fall climbing days when perfection is defined.
This was it.
We warmed up and determined the plan of attack for the day; given conditions like this, one must remain disciplined and organized to take full advantage and accomplish our respective goals. I began trying The Prow Traverse - V5, an old, pumpy project of mine, which, on this day, felt far easier. I sent shortly.
Friend topping out the traverse |
Tyler and I decided that this was the day, the day that we would crush numerous problems, regardless of grade, or style, or height. On a day like this, when our bodies move more freely and delicately from hold to hold, and we find ourselves sitting at the tops of boulder problems, we could do anything.
Tyler sat down beneath The Probe and began what was likely his send attempt.
He reached the namesake hold.
Something went wrong.
In the next few, blurry moments, a loud, cracking thud echoed off of the pines and withing all of the climbers watching. Tyler was on the pad, and the probe was on him. The unthinkable had happened; the probe was broken; this was not the day.
This was not that day.
Bewildered, half-true jokes were made at Tyler. Stunned faces stared blankly at the brown silhouette scar left by the break. Frantic hands caressed the scar for signs of a new hold. All that was left were two, horrid crimps.
JP slaps the sloper on The Egg. |
Friend on The Dyno. |
We set our pads underneath the least intimidating line on the boulder and began work. After a few goes, we both sent what we both decided was "the best V2 I have ever climbed", as it would be, we were climbing on a V4 known as Rubiks Cube. A deadpoint move to a perfect crystal-pinch leads to a heady top-out and incredible view.
Rubiks Cube |
We hadn't had that day, but we had a day, and, hell, the day we had was pretty fucking sweet. Climbing sometimes teases me and leaves me wanting more from it, but the moment I start to doubt my passion for it, it drags me back in with a day like this one.
Fading light on Snooze. |
It wasn't even that great a problem, anyway.
Dude that was an epic tale, great day.
ReplyDeleteAny opinions on the the Probe from folks who know it? To glue or not to glue is the question...
The problem would likely still go, but likely over V11 or so. The crimps are quite small, and the Probe already required a foot cut campus crux on a very good sloper. The new problem would likely feature the same move on hard crimps... unless someone finds a way to skip the new holds and move directly to the pinch/pocket...
I kinda like the prospect of another hard project at G.B.... especially on the prow boulder. I mean, there is no doubt that the line is still possible, albeit hard, and honestly, it could be a much better problem now, albeit hard.
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