Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Bromance

After a couple weeks of non-bouldering (roped climbing), Kyle, Adam and I rolled out to G.B. for some nighttime, late summer sends. Someone was missing from the crew however, that someone was Benjamin Horgen.

That's right, our beloved Ben is off to college in New Paltz, a fitting setting for the young crusher. Although we haven't met up with him yet down there we hear he's doing well... he sent the hardest problem in the gym in two tries.

Anyway, the whole crew had to overcome our feelings for Ben for a sick day of climbing at G.B... I don't know if you remember, but last time we went to G.B. we were attacked by a HORRENDOUS amount of mosquitoes. This time was no better, the little blood suckers were relentless would swarm the forearms and faces of whoever was climbing. Just another obstacle for the E-City crew to overcome.

We started our day at two boulders that Adam and I had found a cleaned a while back. They both have lines that haven't been done yet on them and we were hoping to nab some FA's. We started on a great problem called Closer - V3. Its a very cool problem in that the crux involves soft slopers reminescent of the south and rarely found in Great Barrington. Kyle and I hadn't sent yet, but after a few goes we both got the fun little line.

After a few goes on the ridiculous eliminate project Further - V?, which is on the same boulder as Closer, we headed over to another project that climbs a slightly overhung face out a small pit. From the looks of it I thought the problem would be easy, but it proved me wrong. We started taking goes in the pit only to find we were a little scared of the slightly sketchy fall. We discovered that the best way to protect on the problem was to put a spotter in the pit with you to guide you from falling onto either of the two rocks that form the pit. Needless to say, this made the situation in the pit very... close. Lets just say there was some serious spotter - climber bromance going on.

The route turned out to be a tad tricky. Smaller fingers help on this route due to the small slot you crimp down on. After attaining a nice sidepull via a kneebar or a high foot, you gear up for a very dynamic move to a small ledge. This shut our team down for a while as missing the ledge would definatelycause an interesting fall. But after feeling the move with Adam giving me a little weight, I knew it was very possible. On my last go, I wasn't thinking about the fall, or sending, or anything for that matter besides the move, and that's when I sent.

We named the problem Bromance - V5 after the spotting situation and also for our friend Ben. WE MISS YOU BEN! It's a SICK problem and if you're ever in the area it's up and right of the warm-up boulder infront of a very cool looking roof, to the left of Closer and Further and coming out of a small pit. If you go to The Optimist - V11 you've gone too far.

As the hours ticked away and the sun started to set, we moved up to The Platform Problem - V6. Kyle and Adam had been working this route for quite some time and were hoping to send the cool line today. As golden light splashed over the rock, Adam and Kyle began taking goes. After a little Adam sent using some new top-out beta just as the sun was setting. Nice send man. Kyle got wicked close, but couldn't unlock the feet.

After a few goes on Pistol Grip - V6+ we headed out of the G.B. woods in the dark. A good day... even if Ben wasn't there.
-WB

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