I know, I know, I never finished the posts about Tennessee, but be patient. Once I get some pictures I'll do a huge media dump with a little write up about the sends.
For now, let me tell you about the most epic day of Nine Corners destruction ever.
Aaron on the... down climb for Tower of Power - V0
When we arrived at Nine Corners temps were perfect, psyche was perfect, and (despite 7 days of sending in the south) skin was good to go. Before I knew it, I was standing in front of my long term project
Thorazine - V8.
Setting up for the bump on Thorazine - V8
First go I linked to the bump, and although I fell, I quickly got the crux move in isolation. Soon, I was getting in sequence, and despite many long breaks, I got spat off again and again. At this point both Aaron and Tyler made valiant sends of the incredible problem. I thought I was done, and walked away to go check out the Froggy boulder.
Aaron stretching for the top of Tower of Power
Before the froggy boulder, Aaron ran a lap on
Tower of Power - V0. Although it was hard to watch, the shots are pretty sweet. 35 feet of aesthetic climbing later and we were onto the Froggy boulder.
Does not do this beast justice
According to the book,
Froggy Style Sit is a V9, after this epic day it received a harsh downgrade to V7. Since I have not done the problem I'm not going to put forth a grade, but keep in mind its original grading. After some serious goes, Ben and Aaron sent, and Tyler got close. Send #2 of the day.
Next, it was on to the Saccharine set to try
Instant Yoga - V8,
Shapeshifter - V4, and other problems on the awesome boulder. Ben repeated
Instant Yoga real fast, and
Shapeshifter was sent by everyone.
Around the corner were two problems graded V7 and V6. After flashing both, they recieved a serious downgrade to
Even Stevia - V5 and
Diamonds are Forever - V3.
Pretty intense
We hiked back to the main set to try
Bearded Earnie - V7, and I wanted to try
Thorazine one last time before we left. Before I gave the final go, I told everyone that I needed some old school psyche. Within a minute I was miraculously sticking the top sloper, with screams coming from my spotters, and in a strangely surreal act I was on top of what had been my longest project.
Sick.
Aaron rounded off the day with a send of
Bearded Earnie. What a day!
-WB
That was a sick day all around. Comming back from the south and feeling strong as hell! We gotta go back to the south asap
ReplyDeleteI must get there asap. The word on the street is that Thorazine is a ridiculously amazing problem. Good read, and congrats on the send!
ReplyDeleteIn my opinion, the best problem I have done. Nine's great if you can get a local to show you the good stuff, if your heading out shoot me an email.
ReplyDelete@evan
HELLYES. I don't know why we climbed our strongest after like 7 days on.
if yoga is the standard for eight then stuff is def not graded right
ReplyDeleteSeems like yoga is on the higher end of V8 though...
ReplyDeleteif froggy is down graded then thorazine has got to be downgraded. i didn't call froggy a 7. just sayin.
ReplyDeleteA.N.
You guys have to keep in mind that the more you climb, the stronger you are going to get...not that boulder problems need to be downgraded as a result of increased climbing abilities. I have climbed all over the world and the grades at 9 seem to be pretty accurate. In most cases, you will here people on their first visit spraying that everything has been sandbagged at 9. Ben...I recall you also thinking that boxcar arete should be downgraded because you did it easily...but remember that the V-grade comes from a climbing consenses and do you have any idea how many people think Boxcar Arete is in fact a V8? Enjoy the climbing you get in and try to forget about the number game once and a while. You might enjoy it more that way!
ReplyDeletehey, im a local with a few boulders you guys might be interested in that you might not know about. my brother and i climbed the pinnacle boulders back in 03 and know a few boulders near the area that are really fun but havent seen people at. my favorite bouldering spot is on green lake road. take it down and bear left and park in the kane mountain parking lot. walk back to green lake road (100 yards) and head up in the woods about 300 yards. there are 2 huge boulders there and its such an easy approach. there are some more boulders and cliffs around that are worth the hike let me know if your interested
ReplyDelete@Eric,
ReplyDeleteVERY interested! Shoot me an email, weekendbouldering@gmail.com
What are the problems like and how many boulders are there?
If you have not been i can vouche for the 2 boulders. Really pretty nice. As for more boulders in the area??? Not that i found. hiked around for about an hour and although there where a few problems here or there, nothing of real worth.
ReplyDelete