The Gnar.

Setting up to snatch those half-pad crimpers! Vanilla Slice - V5

It's the post you've all been waiting for!

Yesterday, Spook, Tyler and I took advantage of the great weather by making our first nice weather trip to Gnarnia (I'll explain where it is later).

The Wardrobe - V3

The first line you come to is on the arete of a beautiful boulder. We cleaned it off and began working. After a few goes, I got the FA of The Wardrobe - V3. Balance moves lead to a (crux?) full value top-out. Psyched!

Topping out The Wardrobe - V3

Next, we moved up the hill to the Treeboob boulder. Tyler and I began trying the obvious, tall dead vertical line on the right side of the boulder. After working it a while, Tyler got the FA of Vanilla Slice - V5. Spook and I weren't able to send this tall, thin crimpfest, but I am pumped to get back on it.

Tyler psyched on the FA of Vanilla Slice - V5

Eventually we left to go get wood to build the Gnarwhal platform. We had the lumber, we just had to get it up the hill. Eventually we got the wood to the Gnarwhal, but before we started building, Spook wanted to clean off the top. He rapped down and with a little nudge, all the moss that lay on top of the monster rolled off and landed neatly, unraveled, on the slab.

Stand start on the obvious crescent, moves up into the sloping ledges. The sit starts down in the pit, a good 6-7 feet below the crescent on crimps.

The boulder looks a little less intimidating without its hair, and a little more doable. The best of the best are going to have to come out to do battle with this one, the stand may not be bad, but the sit... oh the sit...

Can't wait to get back.

Alright, now, how to get there. Gnarnia is located at Brant Lake in the Adirondacks, behind Palmer Brothers Marina. To get to the marina, take Exit 25 of I87, then make a right towards Brant Lake on Rt8, then make a left onto Palisades Road (CoRd26) the marina is visible now. If it is open, ask them where they would like you to park. They are VERY nice people (they let us bring 10 two-by-fours into the woods without asking many questions), so be courteous and respectful. Hike in on the snowmobile trail, the first boulder is against the trail. To get up to the cliff, follow the logging trails up or just hike straight up.

Good luck! Email me if you get some sends up there!

-WB