As you can clearly see the uber-classic Lynn Hill's Traverse - V8, has broken. As discussed on Bassforyourface, this is just another casualty in a streak of hold breakage on classic problems. Dreamtime, Karma, Witness the Fitness, Sketches of Pain, hide your favorite climb because no boulder is safe!
But on a serious note, this is a huge loss to the Carriage Road, and the classic climb will no doubt be a lot harder without the preciously gigantic starting jug which seemed incredibly solid.
This brings me to another topic, hold chipping. The phenomenon of hold chipping is present at many of our local crags, the classic Slot Machine - V5 at McKenzie Pond has its signature "slot" chipped in, Caressing the Manniquins Leg - V3 at Nine Corners has a chipped hold as well.
I can see the positive side, both problems are incredibly fun and because of their... modifications... seem almost natural. But the cons are obvious, is the destruction of the rock really necessary for our enjoyment? Humans have a funny habit of modifying natural things to their liking, when perhaps they should have just been left alone.
I've climbed the problems listed above, and others, and I loved them, but I don't know if it's the right thing to do. Could these lines have gone without chipping? Probably. So why chip them? Why change the rock just to make things easier instead of rising up to the challenge? To me, it seems like cheating.
-WB
I saw Lynn Hill's earlier on Monday and pointed out the cool heel jam as we walked by. Then Salo got a text that the hold had broken and we inspected the damage on the way out. Very disappointing, cause I wanted to work that at a later date. Obviously this was an unintentional accident.
ReplyDeleteNo question chipping is cheating and a LAME practice. My opinion is to tap each hold with a hammer on the initial cleaning of the problem and this should tell you if it is going to dangerously pop off and hurt somebody. If it will pop off, then pull it off to avoid injuring anyone, including yourself.
Once the problem has been sent, do nothing to intentionally alter it.
As far as superfluous rocks, trees and dirt that interferes with the problem, that is up to the initial cleaning crew. If a sharp rock would be landed on or a tree leans against the rock nearby, maybe move those. Its up to you.
Do not fret little friends. Just start Lynn's 6 inches to the right were most people start there right hand anyway. You guys are a bit mellow dramatic for a chossy lowball traverse. Lynn hill originally did the line with totally different beta as well that everyone blows by making in 2 grades easier anyway.
ReplyDeleteYeah, it's a perfect example of a gunks problem in that it can be started a number of different ways, has a number of different beta variations, and a number of different ways to top it out. Still, it's a little discouraging to see that the gloriously fun and crazy heel-toe cam will no longer work.
ReplyDeleteThere actually wasn't much of a heal toe cam. I doubt it will change the problem much at all, the heal toe was more of a toe hook on the ledge that still remains, funny how problems go over looked till something like this happens, you don't know what you got till its gone. The dust-ball traverse is far from gone thought, so play away kids.
ReplyDeleteWe where at the road the day before this happened, Michael had his new video camera rolling, little did we know that we captured the probable last ascent of the old problem. Maybe the new problem should be called the Ken Murphy traverse?
ReplyDeleteI think a bunch of Lynn Hill Hatorz took a crowbar to it. Nah, but really im sure it will be resent in no time.
ReplyDelete