Farley

On Saturday, Ben, Tyler, Aaron and I got up bright and early to venture to the far off and mysterious land of Farley, Mass.

In recent years, Farley has been home to some pretty bad access issues, thankfully the Western Mass Climbers Coalition resolved a lot of them. This is great because Farley is also home to some of the highest quality rock in the Northeast, and one of the best problems in the U.S. Speed of Life - V10.

Tyler on the stand start of Speed of Life - V8 (stand)

After getting lost many times and completely losing trust in technology, we arrived at Farley. The hike in was easy, and soon we were amidst the awesome granite blocks that litter the ledges. We warmed up on The Wave - V6. A very cool problem with a dynamic move at the end, only Aaron sent, and I'm psyched to get back to it.

Next we went over to Terrordactyl - V8. After sussing the beta, Aaron and Ben got close on this 2 move problem, but no sends.

Aaron on the crimpy and weird Terrordactyl - V8

We headed on to the next point of interest... Big - V7. The name describes this problem well, its a beautiful overhanging prow with interesting balance moves to a committing final hop for the top. Oh, and its tall. No one sent, but Aaron got very close, as did Tyler.

After Big, we headed down and began trying the start moves of the incredibly beautiful and impressive Speed of Life. Its a 30 foot block, that maintains a steep 30 - 45 degree angle the entirety of its face. The landing is stepped, so the fall from the top isn't bad. Perfect, big moves between incut crimps leads to a sloping mantel press top-out. Sick.
Maybe some other time.

JP in full send mode (Tongue out) on Tweaky Bird - V7

Finally, we tried Tweaky Bird - V7, a climb we regretted not trying earlier. The moves are great on the problem, starting with powerful bumps up crimpy sidepulls, to a sloping and kinda sketchy lip traverse, to a techy top out. Ben got VERY close, and though we could all do separate parts of the problem solid, we couldn't piece it together.

Ben trying HARD on a bottom up go of Tweaky Bird,
this photo really shows the sketchy tree.

Overall I was really impressed with Farley, the rock quality is stunning and "Exactly like Switzerland" according to Tyler. The climbs are beautiful, hard, and have good movement on solid holds. We'll be making the trip numerous times this summer.

The next day, Tyler, Ryan and I headed up to Moreau in Ryan's beater Mercedes (This point is of importance). We were lured, as always, into the woods at the sight of what looked to be a cliff. We found some cool looking slabs, and a virgin cliff, but nothing too exciting.
Next we headed over to the main area, and realized the extent of the possibility of bouldering at Moreau. The rock quality is good, and there are some really cool features, my favorite being an overhanging prow with some interesting looking moves, and a high and scary arete with refrigerator slapping on slopey edges.
We warmed up on a new piece of rock, Ryan and I both did an interesting high angle slab climb with a committing top. I got the FA and called it Black and White Praying Mantis with Night Vision - V0, after a dream I had.

We got to work, then, on the Pressure Cooker Project. I got a little closer to hitting the sloper, but realized the problem isn't over. In the picture below you can see Ryan trying some different beta.

So far, the crux is reaching the sloping ledge a few feet directly above Ryan's head

We leave for the south Friday, and I'll be sure to fill you guys in on the sends and what not as soon as we get back.

Till then.

Peace.

So this is actually the 99th blog post. Lol.

-WB

Frustration

Bouldering is punctuated frustration.
Next time someone asks what bouldering is I'll say this: At times, there is a moment of strong, brief, indescribable joy, but more often than not bouldering means hours, days, even years of falling, failing and becoming annoyed and disheartened.

At Nine this past weekend, the only thing that was on my mind (and had been all winter) was a problem called Thorazine - V8, that I had come tantalizingly close on last winter, only to be shut down by freak snow that carpeted the top, and my dreams. I was unhappy, but I had all winter to think about my prize, and when spring came around I would no doubt tick this one off my list.

Spring is here, and an empty box still remains next to Thorazine. While trying moves on the boulder last Saturday I did feel stronger, and I did still think it could go, but I allowed the slightest bit of doubt to creep into my mind, and from that point on my goes got worse and worse. I tried the top-out, something I hadn't done before... and I fell... I couldn't do it... the nail in the coffin.

Spooky sent Thorazine, and I couldn't have been more happy for him, but it's human nature to get a little jealous. He had been just as close as me last winter, if not closer, and it was a really good send for him. Ultimately, I gave up, walked away, but I didn't leave empty handed because I realized something.

Out there, in the middle of the woods on a nearly perfect early spring day, with 2 of my best friends, I realized that the only thing better than succeeding and sending that monster that had haunted my dreams all winter, was being able to walk away without finishing it and still enjoying the rest of the day.

No, I didn't send Thorazine, or anything else of note for that matter, but I climbed some moderates at the cave wall, I got soaked hunting for rock where the guidebook stopped, and I left early, happy with whatever I had just done.

Bouldering is a huge mental test that everyone will fail. It directly reflects and can teach us so much about life. No matter what there will always be struggle and disappointment, and don't ever think you can be "the best". However, the only way to succeed and stay sane is to not take it so seriously. Whether it be climbing or any other sport. We're just a bunch of souped up monkeys playing with nature, and falling off the top-out of some rock with a name that 99% of the world has never heard of is certainly not the end of the world...

... unless you fall off the boulder onto a button that begins a nuclear war with Iran, in which case you shouldn't have been climbing above that button anyway. I mean, who puts a button like that in the woods, or even makes a button like that in the first place?
...but... I digress.

When I get a chance, I'll post a video of Adam on Thorazine and some stuff from Lincoln Woods, as well as whatever footage I get this weekend.

Less than two weeks till the south.

Congrats to Michael Penn for sending is long-long-term project China Beach - 5.14b

Stay happy.

-WB

Nine Corners Tomorrow

Some cool catz and myself are heading out to Nine Corner's tomorrow for some early Spring sending. The biggest tick on the list currently is Thorazine, the long standing project for Adam and I.




I recently started training again and I actually am feeling a lot stronger. Trust me, I was never into training (mostly because I couldn't get motivated to follow a schedule), but after training for the past few weeks I already feel improvements. There might be something to all this craziness.

Anyway, it looks beautiful. 60 degrees and SUNNAY, humidity at a low as well. Perfect. Perfect, perfect, PERFECT! If anyone wants to meet us out there, do it. I'm sure you'll find us. I don't have my phone, so email me or something.


-WB

Trip to Chatty

The weekendbouldering crew is heading down to Chattanooga for some good sends and ridiculousness in just a few weeks now. And so, here is the inevitable tick-list.


We'll be heading to 3 different areas:
Little Rock City, Chattanooga
Rocktown, Georgia
Horse Pens 40, Alabama

For each area I have set up a modest and achievable tick-list with climbs ranging from V4 - V8.

Rocktown:

• Soap on a Rope - V4
• Island of Beautiful Women - V4
• The Hobbit - V5
• Croc Bloc - V5
• Nose Candy - V6
• The Helicopter - V6
• Sherman Photo Roof - V7
• Grand Theft Auto - V7

Horse Pens 40 (Never Been):

• Mortal Combat - V4
• Bum Boy - V4
• Hammerhead - V5
• Redneck - V6
• Millipede - V6
• Mullentino Roof - V7
• Great White - V7
  
• The Flow- V7+
• Litz Pocket Problem - V8

Little Rock City:

• Art of the Vogi - V4
• Dragon Lady - V4
• Genghis Khan - V5
• Shotgun - V6
• Diesel Power - V6
• Cyclops (sit) - V6
• Face in the Crowd - V7
• Deception - V7
• Instinct - V7
• Celestial Mechanics - V7
• The Brotherhood - V8

Thoughts? Any additions I should make? Revisions?

In other news, the weather is beautiful, and we will soon start doing after school sessions at Nine Corners, GB, Moreau State Park and the Stables Boulder. GET PSYCHED

-WB

EXPLORATHON 2010

To reiterate my previous feelings in a more effective and better worded manner, March is an incredibly bothersome and stressful time of the year.

It sucks.

Here is a short quiz in order to determine if you too are suffering from "March Madness" (I am not referring to college basketball either, its a serious disease resulting from the horrible conditions of March)

1. Look outside. Are the only visible colors depressing shades of brown and grey?

2. Go outside. Is it raining?

3. Look down. Are you standing in mud, slush, or brown snow?

4. Are you generally less happy than you normally would be?

5. Is it hard to determine, under the thick layer of caked on mud, between your car and your shoes?

6. Look at the calender, does the month start with M?

7. Does it end in ARCH?

If you answered 3 or more of these questions with YES. God help you.

On a lighter note, EXPLORATHON 2010 took place yesterday. The forecast was typical March, but we were anxious to get out. Tyler, Aaron, Ryan, Kirby and I headed out to Snowy Mountain to explore the hueco filled wonderhill. The snow was deep, and we were quickly assaulted with the steady falling of ice pellets, but we trudged on and were rewarded with a few quality looking boulders.

More exploration will be required this summer. After becoming thoroughly soaked at snowy, Tyler, Ryan and I decided to check out a spot by queensbury, but to no avail. Finally we headed to Moreau State Park to check out a boulder Tyler had found. It was wet, but the lines on it look good, and very difficult.

We headed to another boulder at Moreau and were not disappointed. The boulder contained a really cool looking line out a low roof, finishing on a technical slab. After spending a good time cleaning, it became clear the line had been tried, but I doubt it has been done. We gave goes and figured out a super technical, body tension filled, burly as HELL sequence. We didn't send, but it is such a cool line, and I can't wait to get back.

I would have to say this day was a success. I love to explore, and especially now, in our darkest of Months, it seems like the best option. I like established stuff, but something about finding that line, cleaning it and sending is so much more rewarding. Climbing continues to inspire, amaze, anger, disappoint and tease me, but oh, how I love it so.

What do you guys like? Exploring or climbing established lines? Comment and share your thoughts. Also March sucks.

Before we left, we got the spraydown on some ELBAM's, we were told that if we just got some more purchase we could piss all over it.

-WB

Happy Blogday!

A year ago, this wonderful blog started with a modest post entitled "Blogs Up".

And so from now on I declare March 9th BLOG DAY!

This new holiday is competing with Barbie Doll Day, No Smoking Day and Panic Day (This one is my favorite)

So, if you like to cover all the bases simply play panic about your Barbie Dolls while reading Weekend Bouldering!!!

-WB

Heat

Every single weather report I looked at said the same thing.

Beautiful weekend coming up!
High 40's and sunny!
Finally a nice weekend!

No doubt I was psyched. I would have been more psyched if I wasn't hearing these wonderful reports lying in bed with a fever and sore throat feeling like death. My goal was no longer to get better, it was to get better by Saturday.

We decided on Lincoln Woods because it hadn't gotten any rain and the weather there looked great. High 40's to 50's and sunny. On the ride down, we watched as the temperature reading above the dashboard read 35... 37... 39... 40... 42... 45... and by then we were parked amongst many cars at Lincoln Woods.

I ditched my down jacket and immersed myself in the incredible excitement for the comfortable weather. I could finally focus on climbing and not on the cold that had been eating away at my happiness the past long, cold winter months.

We started our day at the Tombstone boulder. After examining the lines, we warmed up on a V4 called the Tombstone Nose. It looked easy enough, a short dynamic move out a small roof and then execute the technical top-out. We all dispatched accordingly.

Next we began work on The Tombstone Traverse - V6, a very cool looking piece of rock that worked its way through slopers, sidepulls, gastons and crimps to the same technical finish as the V4. On my first go, I realized something strange... my fingers were sweating... within no time my feet were on the ground and my hands were in the chalkbag. I had greased off, a sensation so foreign I was in disbelief. After much work, Aaron and Adam sent, and on my last go I sent too. Good start to the day.

As we packed up to move on to another area, Paul Robinson pulled up with some locals and began scoping out the V11 dyno on the boulder. It's weird when you meet a really strong and famous climber and then realize he is no different from you. He's just out playing in the woods.

Next we went over to the Iron Cross Area. After quickly dispatching Iron Cross - V4, we moved on down the hill to The Cave. This slightly overhung wall has many lines (and even more eliminates) that are note worthy. We all began giving goes at the different problems, and socializing with the locals. Aaron got really close on Clutch - V8, but couldn't stick the move right after the crux! Next time for sure.

We finally ended our day at Try Again. Adam and I began working on Loadies Zen - V6. This really cool problem ends in a signature jump. After many goes, Adam managed to send this rig doing the "jump" super static. He's getting strong.

I'll put up a video later of the sends.

This warm weather is reminding me the Spring is just around the corner, or maybe its right in front of us, point is I am psyched. Dack season is fast approaching and I couldn't be happier.

Not to mention the trip down to Chattanooga is in 3 weeks.

-WB