Gnarnia

Somewhere in the Adirondacks...


...Coming to a climber like you this spring

-WB

Lost City

"Dude when winter comes I'm gonna be out all the time crushing shit" Who hasn't said those words. Then winter comes..... You get busy, it snows, and that cold winter breeze. Almost January and I can count the times I have been out on one hand. But decent weather and a renewed psyche level has brought me to the Gunks a couple days as of late. Even a night session at fifteen degrees seemed like a good idea. So the thirst is back, once you taste a little you need more. Here's a quick video of a day at lost city middle. Typical shitty video, first problem is Harmonic tremors v9, second one is Alcoholocaust v10. Good day for all especially Icey cleaning up on a couple pestering demons. Left out the background audio so you could listen to Iceys primal screams.

FYI : Lost city is LOADED with dope problems !

Hard Guy Wall

Quick Video from the steepest wall in the area. No tape, no matching, no crimping. Just some of the hardest problems in the Capital region. Robot reigns supreme in these parts diabolically working to become part man part machine. This is a hard link up problem of three routes. 856

THERES A HIT COUNTER AT THE BOTTOM

WOO!!! SCROLL DOWN TO SEE THE AMAZING HIT COUNTER.

Feast your eyes on the incredible display of shiny digital numbers. Gaze in awe at the stylish red glow they emit.

Yes, while it may only be a little hit counter now... just a few digits... it will someday grow into an incredible number... hundreds? thousands? MILLIONS?!

In other news no climbing has been going on at all.

Well, that's not entirely true... a few people went to G.B. yesterday. Adam sent The Bump - V8 (HELL YEAH!) and Aaron made an impressive assent of Snooze Button the second person in our group to nab this tasty problem. Oh... I never made a post about the day snooze went... eh it'll have to wait for the video.

Here is a picture completely unrelated to the following two problems:

Adam grabbin' a gnarly heel hook on the freezing rock of Twisted Steel - V8.

Ah, yes it's the holiday season once more, and while no one submited photos to my contest (>:[) and Murph never did post any media (even though I made him an author) I can't help but be happy! It's been a good year. I can say that a lot of struggle, training, failures and successes have led to incredible progress this year.

Even with the loss of Electric City we trudged on had a summer filled with days at McKenzie, Nine, G.B. and Snowy. We made break-through's, had some rough patches and drempt of the next days out on the rock.

Some went, some joined, some have been here all along, and I feel like what started out as a few guys in the gym has really, truly turned into a sick band of climbers.

You guys know who I am talking to, and I hope all those folks from the Upstate out there representin' and crushin' should feel pretty good too. Good work guys. And to anyone else out there reading this blog...

Keep crushing,
sending,
training,
and doing what you love
because you love what you do.

Happy Christmas
Merry Hannukah
Jolly Kwanza
And have a good Festivus
And if you aren't celebrating and just climbing that's cool too...

Anyone down for climbing Christmas Eve Day in the Gunks???
Should be a good time.
K Bai.

-WB

Climbing Forecast - 12/16/09

So... I'm not gonna be here Saturday, my ski team is having its first on snow practice and I should probably go...

Anyways, I know most of you can't go out on Sundays, but if you can please text me at 5189441080... I really want to take advantage of the nice weather this weekend, the gunks are PRIME for climbing right now and yeah. I like to climb rocks.

AREA OVERVIEW:

Speaking of prime conditions, if you are headed to the Gunks this weekend, you're in for clear skies all weekend with cooler temps in the lower 30's. Perfect for sending.

Similarly, G.B. might be good to go too, with cooler temps though... and GB can be a hassle to get to in the snow.

Anything up North is looking cold this weekend... like... 10 degrees or less, so unless your fine with numb extremities than I would not suggest planning any trips to Nine Corners.

COMPS:

I don't know of any... but maybe there are some going on...?

PRIME AREA OF THE WEEK:

All year we've been waiting to climb at the road without the hefty price-tag it usually comes with. However, with the new fallen snow, the rangers have fled the Trapps leaving us cheap winter boulderers to fend for ourselves on the fast drying, sun-drenched rock of the Gunks.

So get out there, its gonna be a nice weekend for climbing, and I know you've still got some projects there. I know.

-WB

Phrases that make me want to quit climbing

You all know what I mean, almost everytime I go outside, climb in the gym or try to explain to someone what I do on my weekends (an impossible task I have come to find) the same questions and phrases always pop-up.



1. Oh, so is it like a speed thing?
What a classic line, after you tell someone you rock climb, it inevitably leads to how you compete, which is a taboo question in itself! What if I don't compete? At that point whoever I was talking to immediately loses interest and I feel all the more disconnected from the rest of the world. Like most people don't understand the point of doing something for fun, everything is a competition... always. Just look at things like Iron Chef, or American Idol. Even if you do compete, the question that always follows is how you win... is it a speed thing? who can get to the top first? At this point I apply a very heart-felt face-palm and call it a day. Yes, its a speed thing, yes, you're right, you did go to the gym and made it to the top of the hard wall, yes, you probably are a natural at rock climbing.

2. Wow, he looks like a monkey/spiderman or something?
Dammit guys the novelty wore off the first ten times this awful grouping of words entered my ears. I mean, I guess I can't be too angry, it is a complement, but I almost take it as an insult! Climbing is something I spend countless hours investing a large majority of my life into, and to have it reduced to such childish similes like this makes me feel... annoyed. So, thank you, sir or madam for comparing me to either something that flings its poo around for funzies or a fictional comic book character who didn't even climb that much... he just slung a bunch of freaking webs. On a side note, that monkey bears a striking resemblance to your average climber...

Nice shoes.

3. So what are those square things for anyway?
Yup, they are for sleeping on.
Yup, they're just big backpacks.
If any of you have ever had the "blessing" of having this asked of you then you know lying is the easiest way out. Don't even DREAM of trying to explain the usage of the seemingly incredibly advanced piece of rectangular technology strapped to your back because you won't be able to. In the end you will have just made things awkward for both you and your new friend and both your days will be a little more crappy. My advice? My friend Luke and I decided on the perfect answer for this question: They are for killing cats.
They don't ask any more questions after that one.

4. What is this... bold ... err ... ing?
When this question is asked, I find it best to walk away.

Lets face it, until climbing gets nestled between your favorite monday night sport shows, we are forever doomed with having to face the fact that no one gets us. I mean, to put it in perspective we enjoy putting ourselves into uncomfortable harnesses and shoes, putting ourselves through seconds, minutes, hours, days even of sometimes excruciating pain, in the most extreme conditions, and for what goal? I don't think anyone can understand why until they try it themselves. So until then, yeah, its a speed thing, yeah, I plan on sleeping in this large piece of foam I am carrying, yup, I am exactly like a monkey, and yes, oh god yes my legs/arms/ankles/feet are deformed and scraped up because I fell off my bike.

I am sure you guys know countless others, infact post your most hated phrase or question in the comments.

-WB

1st Annual Photo Contest!

Tis the season everyone.

That's right whatever holiday you celebrate here is a chance to get some more climbing garb
(no such thing as too much)

I am proposing an idea I had way back in November... but didn't tell anyone about.
Weekend Bouldering is about to hold its FIRST ANNUAL HOLIDAY PHOTO CONTEST!!!!

Just submit you're photos to WeekendBouldering@gmail.com or post them in the fan photos on the facebook page with the following information:

Photographer:
Climber:
Problem/Route:
Location:

Prizes will be awarded to first, second and third place winners!

For the contest to work, I need to acquire a large deal of photos from a large deal of people, and so if I do not recieve submissions from more than 3 people, the contest is not gonna work! Also, for now I am only allowing a max of 3 pictures per person, if I don't get that many that could change.

So go on, browse those pictures of yours (I know you've got tons) and email them or post them up and get in the holiday spirit!

-WB

Nine Corners and the Prison Boulder

Despite iffy weather forecasts and a lot of last minute destination changes, a pretty big crew consisting of Michael, Murph, a few guys from AIR, Spook, Ben, Kyle and myself headed out to a place I had never been before... the prison boulder.


Also known as the Caroga Lake Boulder, the prison boulder is a massive piece of rock that sits only a few yards in from the road to Nine Corners. Its face is tall, and slightly overhung and hosts a good deal of problems from V0 to V11. The problems are powerful in nature, long and a little scary. Sounds good to me.


We started off on a problem on the left side of the boulder called Conjugal Visit - V3, it's big, powerful and pretty dang cool. A large deal of us sent and managed to stay warm on the wintry day.

Murph, Ben and Michael gave some solid goes at the signature route on the boulder Pot of Gold - V11. Murph sent it a while back, but its been unrepeated since.

Michael, Spook, Kyle, Ben and I rolled on out to Nine Corners to put some work in on Thorazine - V8 and Over-Burdened - V11. Spook and I made excellent progress on Thorazine, linking all the way to the last move, and Michael managed to move through the crux on the V11, also unrepeated. He didn't send, and neither did Spook and I, but we both made awesome progress.

Ben figured out some INCREDIBLY POWERFULLY HARD BETA that he somehow could almost sort of do. Before we could finish up our respective problems, the flakes started falling... and then flurrying... and then all out snowing, the top got wet, the air got cold, and after a trechourously fun walk out of the woods, we were in the car jamming to christmas music and kazookeylele final countdown covers.

It was a pretty good day, and I hope we can get back before Winter really sets in.

Also, it was a fairly successful SWEET SHOTS round... fairly... I got a reply from Josh, one of the guys we climbed with, but no one else submitted their pictures. COME ON GUYS!

Srsly, send yo pics to weekendbouldering@gmail.com

Also, Murph is now an official author of the blog! WOO!

Also, Christmas is in like 16 days or something.

Also, I am calling a vote on the Facebook Page and here, you are allowed to vote twice...

NINE CORNERS?
GREAT BARRINGTON?
DARK HORSE COMP THING?
Argue, Discuss, Opinionate

-WB

Info on Sweet Shots

HERE'S THE DEAL!

As you can probably tell, this blog DESPERATELY needs some more media.

And I'm sure you all want your sick pics and vids to get recognized by fellow climbers.

So I am proposing something I am calling "Sweet Shots"... Let's say you go out climbin' and you get a ton of sick pictures, are you just gonna let em' sit on your hard drive? Hell nah! You're going to send them, along with problem name, climber name and any other info to

weekendbouldering@gmail.com

and I'll post the best up on the blog under a special section called "Sweet Shots".

But JP, what about videos!?! If you can figure out a way to get your videos to me (willhostforfood.com, get a youtube/vimeo account) I'll be happy to post them up... but you'll need to email me as to where I can find said video.

I know there is some sick media out there, and I would love to post it up here on WeekendBouldering.

-WB

The Turkey Day Miracle

There was no doubt in my mind.

Countless weather stations were reporting 80%, 90%, 100% chance of rain at Crane Mountain on the Friday after Thanksgiving, but for some reason I still wanted to go outside. Even I was beginning to question my sanity.

I found a ride with Aaron, who seemed to share this reckless passion, and we agreed to set out on Friday.

When I woke up Friday, the ground was still wet from an evening shower... but it wasn't pouring as the weather report suggested... before heading out the door I quickly re-checked my sources... still 90% chance of rain.

Yet, as we drove to Crane, patches of blue sky could be seen, and sure, it was overcast, but not dark, foreboding rain clouds, more like light, fluffy, nice clouds... Neither of us wanted to say those magic words "It's hasn't started raining yet" for fear of falling off the thin weather line we were riding.

The miracle had already begun.

We arrived at Crane and found mostly everything was dry! It made no sense, sure there was some wet rock, but most of it was climbable... weird. Still scared at the clouds that loomed above the trees and the fog that coated distant mountains, we got to climbing.

A few percipitationless hours later, we were at Swillin' through a headnet - V4. Probably one of the better problems at Boulderwoods. Aaron flashed, and in another strange act of the weather... something started to fall from the sky... what could it be? It wasn't rain, no it was... oh my god its snow. It was snowing. The first snow I had seen of the season.

Wow.

Even with the snow, it was less than a small flurry, we continued to climb a little longer. Aaron had been telling me about some huge, awesome looking boulders a little lower on the mountain, so we went to go look.

Wow.

What we found were huge, incredible boulders, despite Aaron having a camera in his pocket the WHOLE TIME we failed to take any pictures, so let me describe this to you. 20 foot 45 degree sections of grey, yellow and orange colored rock. Neon orange rock dotted with patina crimps, huge, dimpled slabs and incredibly sustained overhanging fingercracks. Giant caves littered with very hard lines on devious little crimps.

Unfortunatly we lacked the tools to clean these giant boulders, but during our search in the unknown we were suddenly face to face with a blue, taught wire that ran for several yards at the base of the hill... it lied very close to the ground, close enought to trip on. Aaron described how he was a little paranoid of things going BOOM if we touched the wire, so we tried our best to avoid it... weird.

Finally, the sun began to set, and we realized something, besides the few flakes of snow there was not 1 rain drop on this 90% chance of rain day... We had truly lucked out.

It seems the climbing gods shine upon those that dare to go out when no one else will and that dare to go where no one else has.

-WB

Happy Turkey Day

Gravity Sucks

Gravity DOES suck.
Ben, Kyle, Spook and I learned this disheartening fact at G.B. Saturday... well... maybe not Spook.

We started off at the probe, a boulder we haven't gone too in a while, and got to warming up. We all quickly set our sights on a cool, pumpy, crimpy traverse into the warm up. Spooky sent after a bunch of goes, and despite my best efforts (I got past the crux and fell on the "warm up" section) I did not send... damn pump. For the sake of this blog we'll call it Kettle Traverse - V5

Ben and Kyle gave a few goes at The Probe - V9, although unsuccessful, Ben is pretty psyched to get back on the cool little problem.

We then headed up to the main part of G.B. where Ben and Spook began to work on The Bump. After so... so... so... SO many tries, no one sent. Contrary to the video, Ben didn't start from the beginning... too bad.

I felt pretty rested and was ready to get in some goes at my long standing highball prize proj, Snooze Button. I made some good progress, but the Kettle Traverse had left my fingers tender and my forearms sore... although I worked out what I think is the top-out beta, it'll have to wait.

We decided to go search around for Two-Stroke... but, it was wet, so we settled on a problem in a small pit next to it, for the sake of this blog we'll call it Red Light - V7. Ben, upon looking at the heinously small crimps at the bottom of the problem, called it v11. I was pretty confident that was false, and Spook proved me right by sending the cool problem. Red Light is full of moves you would never find outdoor, crazy pinches, double kneebars, you name it.

Although no one sent anything, besides Spooky, it wasn't a bad day... still wish I had spent less time on Kettle and more time on Snooze. Anyways, check out the new video (I posted it on Vimeo for a change... tell me what you think?) and have a nice Thanksgiving. I'll be climbing all break :]

Gravity Sucks - Great Barrington from JP Whitehead on Vimeo.

-WB

Cravings

WB Climbing Forecast - 11/18/09

WHERE ARE WE GOING?
Right now, to be honest, I am not really sure... but we've got options...
I had really wanted to get to Boulderwoods once more before the harsh winds of winter set in, but after reviewing the weather for various locations... the Daks aren't looking so hot.

In addition to the daks, I looked at Great Barrington and the Gunks, so far, Great Barrington looks better.

WEATHER FORECAST:
At G.B... and everywhere else of note, rain is scheduled pretty much all day Friday. The only difference in G.B. is that it should be ending at a little before midnight, and the forecast for Saturday is partly cloudy all day. Other areas, including Boulderwoods, Nine Corners and McKenzie, show signs of rain on Saturday... some even say snow.

SHOULD WE CLIMB?
Depends on how the next few days play out. As of right now I would say G.B. is our best bet for dry rock on Saturday, it has pulled off miracle dryness in worse conditions, who's to say it won't this time? I'll keep my eye on the weather and post up anything new developments.

Until then, I would like to talk about commenting.

You. You read this blog right? Thats a rhetorical question, of course you read this blog. Now lets say you were putting a good deal of procrastination time into writing what you think is a fairly nice piece of work that you put a lot of thought into... wouldn't you want some feedback? Show me some love people! Or not! Whatever feelings you have for me or this blog or climbing or kittens just post it in the comment section! It's not that hard. Thanks for your time.

-WB

Night Bouldering

On Tuesday morning, already psyched for the day off I was getting Wednesday for Veterans day, I got a text from my good friend Morgan...


"Were going night bouldering at Nine Corners tonight... you in?"

"Hell yes."

I had never been acquainted with the new, exciting and slightly frightening world of night bouldering, and as it would turn out, the motley crew I climbed with hadn't either. The night was full of stars, and the 50 degree air welcomed us into the woods.

My heart was beating faster than it usually would on the casual walk into Nine Corners, my world was based solely on what my headlamp flashed against... A tree, a boulder, eyes, more tree- wait... were those eyes? Oh, they were, and they were moving toward me... quickly.

Frozen in fear, I stared directly at this beast barreling towards me until...
My silent attacker wasn't some creature of the night, it was Buddy. One of the guys I was climbing with's dog.

Still, my heart had been stirred, in a good way, I knew this was going to be an interesting night and it had plenty more scares in store for me.

Nine Corners is a different world at night, without the aid of warm, refreshing sunlight, Boulders seem taller, falls seem longer and holds feel so much better. I hopped on Long Live Legos - V5, a cool, blocky arete that I had worked before, but never sent. After getting through the problems crux first move and small jump, I was on the top-out...

At night, you feel alone. More than ever before, it was just me and the boulder, I couldn't see the ground... or my spotter or single pad that sat below me, all I could see was what I hoped would be an alright hold on the arete just a few feet from my face. I threw, missed, and in a feat of intense terror, joy, excitement and pure emotion, I somehow managed to campus match my right hand... This fight was far from over.

Once again I threw for the hold, hit it, and carried out the top-out, trembling from fear.

I was hooked.
I now, officially, loved night bouldering.

The rest of the night flew by, and before we even knew it, we exhausted our 2 baguettes and (less importantly) our finger tips.

I think I can speak for the whole crew when I say night bouldering was exciting and peaceful, calm and intense, strangly pure and incredibly fun. I am eagerly awaiting the next text from Morgan, and to go back into the woods.

On the way out, I saw a strange mass coming out of the lake... oh god... not this again. Jokingly, I said to Morgan, "What is it!?". In reply (trying to be scary) she said, "It's the Nine Corners Seal!"

The ridiculous statement soothed my nerves and I was even more relieved to find it was just the dog again. It was the dog again, but I swear I saw something else swimming out in the lake... perhaps there is a Nine Corners Seal. Yeah, and he only graces his presence upon those brave enough to hike out into the woods late at night and do what they love.

Go, see for yourself.

-WB

Meaning of Life

SPRAYDAY / CLIMBING FORECAST

What!?
A Sprayday and a Climbing Forecast on the SAME POST...!?

This. Is incredible.

Lets start with...
THE SPRAY!

Ah the Carraige Road, I hadn't experienced your wonderful climbing in quite a while. Basically, last Saturday we rolled out to the Gunks to clean up all the projects that didn't go last season.

The day kicked off with Aaron sending Black Boulder - V5, a notable send no doubt. After we all gave some good goes at that problem, we went to a smaller, less aesthetic boulder next to it.

Black Head is listed in the guidebook as "V - Diculous". This grade is soo appropriate. Beta? Grab the pebbly sloper, top-out. Adam, Ben and I managed to complete this stupid human trick... it's actually pretty fun.

Next we moved down to the Meaning of Life Boulder.


I would like to allude back to one of the first posts where I talk about my long standing project, Meaning of Life. It had been a year and a half since I first gave goes at the problem. It had to go today... after a few tries,

I sent.
Yes.
YES.



Adam and Ben also sent and Adam flashed his project, The Following, right next to it. Good Day so far.

Aaron made another notable send that day with the CRUSHING of Marakesh Express - V6.
Good work bro.


After playing around by the Boxcar Boulder, we went way back to the beginning of the road to work on Jackson Pollock - V8. It was pretty fun, and maybe it'll go next time, but dwindling light, sore fngers and tired forearms forced us down the stair master and home.



I know this SPRAYDAY is late, but there are several reasons for that. Mostly, I had a really bad migrane yesterday, and the thought of staring into a computer screen made my head hurt even more.

One day late isn't so bad though... right? Sorry.

OKAY SO,

First off, I am going over to nine corners tonight for some NIGHT BOULDERING with morgan from the gym and some other people.

Second, we are heading to Snowy Mtn. tomorrow for some last minute sends before the snowy winter.

Third, this weekend there is a comp at metrorock. Should be fun.

Lastly, I have to go rake now... hope this is good enough for you Ben!


OH and once I get pictures from Spook I'll add more to this post...

-WB

WB Climbing Forecast - 11/4/09

Sendtember is long gone, Roctober has fallen past us like the leaves on the trees, and now we find ourselves in the next conditionally wonderful month of Gnarvember... or No-Hand-Rest-vember?... Nubvember?... Obamawonanoblepeaceprizevember? Eh, whatever clever pun you come up with for this wonderful month (and please, show me those puns in the comments!) there is no doubt how awesome the month is for climbing.... and food.... can't forget that glorious food.

WHERE ARE WE GOING:
Carraige Road in the Gunks

WEATHER FORECAST:
The weather so far is calling for clear skies all day long. This, coupled with a nice looking day Friday, should produce the first qEXCELLENT climbing day in a long time.

SHOULD WE CLIMB:
Yes, yes, yes, ten times over yes!!! This is the day we've been waiting for and some serious sending shall be seen. Although this fall has failed us thus far with its rainy tendencies, I consider this weekend a gift from the climbing gods.... Lets make the best of it...

Also, I need to send meaning of life.
Also, Luke needs to get footy.

OTHER NEWS:
Not really any news, I'm writing this from my Comp Sci 1 Class though...
Mr. Baciewicz has told me to stop blogging a good 5 or 6 times now...
Also, I just decided that I'll try very hard to put a post out every Monday regarding the sends on Saturday. No longer shall Monday be Monday... now it shall be known as SPRAYDAY.
It's fun being organized!
Bye.


-WB

WB Climbing Forecast - 10/28/09

BOO!


Well folks,
I've been waiting this one out, but since the weather status shows no signs of changing...


WHERE ARE WE GOING:
Carraige Road, Gunks
-OR-
Central Rock ABS Comp

WEATHER FORECAST:
Rain, rain, and yes, even more rain. It seems all over the country the wetness is ruining prime
Roctober time. Hell, I even saw someone's facebook status said "rain in the desert? I though that wasn't supposed to happen." Although wunderground.com calls for a few nice days before the weekend, saturday has 30-50% chance of rain all day.

SHOULD WE CLIMB:
No, no, no, ten times over, no. If the forecast changes and is only calling for rain in the morning, and wind, and sun in the afternoon then MAYBE we could climb... maybe. I doubt that will happen, so in the meantime plan for a trip out to Central Rock in Western Mass for some kick-ass halloween sends.

OTHER NEWS:
The home wall is going well, Adam hurt his back (but recovered), I finally mastered the delicate art of starting my DYNAFLEX POWERBALL!!! and life without a gym is moving slower than ever.

Halloween is coming up and I was wondering what are all ya'll plans for the big night?
-WB

Filter

Dead Point Mag's got nothing on us.

Michael on Filter - V9

WB Climbing Forecast - 10/21/09

Well, I'm not climbing this weekend.
Two weeks of no outdoor climbing?
And in FALL?
That's just lame.


But, the home wall is nice and cozy, and the new holds have already produced some pretty hard problems...

Not having a gym sucks though.

-WB

Lack of Forecast

We're probably not climbing this weekend, therefor the forecast is no climbing. Sorry.

JP-CITY IS OPEN THOUGH
we gots dem new holds.


Check it


Check it


Check it


BIG UP FOR SAVINGS.


Word up, you know the flavor.
-WB

I *heart* G.B.

Speed Boulder, Great Barrington.
Michael Penn on Roses and Bluejays - V13

G.B. never ceases to amaze me, from hundreds of quality problems in an amazing setting (with more potential, both in routes and problems) to somehow drying up completely in a few hours.

After a night of rain that ended at around 3:30AM Saturday totaling 0.5 inches of rain, G.B. was of course soaked when we arrived at around 10:30. After scouting around a bit, we found that the Shade Boulder was dry and began warming up.

A cool shot of JP on Shade - V5

I took a couple laps on shade, as did ben, and Michael/Adam/Sandra worked on sending the fun little V5. After a lot of frustration, Michael and the rest of us began working the SUPER BURLY HARD SIT DOWN START. We worked on beta, and we found some that may work, problem is there is a rock that your heel constantly dabs on. No, I'm not promoting the disturbance of nature, but I'm just saying that if someone accidently dropped a hammer on a crow bar in a crack on the rock and then fell on the crowbar so that it dislodged the piece you dab on, I wouldn't complain.

Check da pics:

The really hard sitdown start crux.

After some good progress we decided to check on the dryness of things. We moved up to my project Snooze Button - V5. Its highball, crimping awesomness. Ben meanwhile was working the Sitdown to Fotowah - V11. We both made progress, and Adam gave his first goes at Snooze.

JP entering the airy section of Snooze Button - V5

Next, Ben, Michael and Sandra headed over to the Speed Boulder. Adam and I stayed back to catch some footy of Bromance - V5 and for Adam to try and send the awesome problem. Although Adam gave some serious effort, and nearly kicked me in the face a dozen times, the problem remains unrepeated!

CHECK OUT THE VIDEO HERE

Then came the AMAZING Speed Boulder. This incredible boulder showcases a beautiful, overhanging, featured front wall, split by tons of cracks that produce awesome crimps and ledges to stab your fingers into.

The last move dyno on Roses and Bluejays - V13

The climbing on this face is hard, infact, some of the hardest in the Northeast. On this one wall there are problems from V8 to V13 (with a really hard project). Michael was working the signature route of the boulder, Roses and Bluejays - V13, while Ben started trying Something from Nothing - V11. Sandra worked an Unknown Problem on the right side of the boulder (probably like V3?) for a while, until Adam and I showed up and moved up on the hill to the funky Heel Hook Problem - V4.

Ben working Something from Nothing - V11

Michael working Roses and Bluejays - V13

Ben made seriously good progress for a problem that was shutting him down on his first goes, Michael almost held the last move dyno of Roses, and I sent the Heel Hook Problem.

As the day continued, Adam and I spotted a cool looking arete on a small cliff band behind the Heel Hook Problem, Adam flashed it and I got it third go. Really fun, probably V3, last move crux.

There wasn't a hint of moisture and the skies were blue at the end of the day in Great Barrington. A day that could have been disastrous turned out pretty good.

-WB

WB Climbing Forecast #1 - 10/7/09

WHERE ARE WE GOING?:
Great Barrington Saturday, Gunks possibly Monday.

WEATHER FORECAST:
Rain all day friday till VERY early on Saturday (2AM).
Winds supposed to pick up all day Saturday reaching a high of 13 MPH.
Temperatures are staying relative low all day (50-60), and by 2PM it's supposed to be clear.
Sunday would be better, but rides are an issue on Sunday.

Check it.

EDIT:
there is hope!
CHECK IT.

SHOULD WE CLIMB?:
G.B. has a reputation for being okay to climb when it rains, but it depends on how much rain the area receives on Friday. The high winds and sun will help the drying process, depending on how early rain stops. I would say if there is a low amount of precipitation, and it ends before 5AM Saturday, G.B. would be great to climb in.
Sunday would be better, but I think Saturday would be a good climbing day.

CONCLUSION:
IF the stars align I'll give G.B. a 75% chance of AWESOME climbing Saturday and 90% chance on Sunday.

If you wanna join us, contact me (JP Whitehead) on Facebook, in the comments or through my email: weekendbouldering@gmail.com

OTHER NEWS:
BEN IS CRUSHING!!!! He's sent Jackson Pollock - V8, Dragon Turns - V9 and New Pair of Glasses - V7. Wow.

Also, I'll be posting the WB Climbing Forecast every Wednesday including where were climbing this upcoming weekend, weather info, news and any new climbing photos.

ORGANIZATION BISHES
-WB

JP-City Opening Week

Problem: Your home gym closed this year, and after a summer full of climbing outside, you find yourself going slowly crazy from climbing withdrawal. You would do anything to go climbing, but alas, how are you going to get your fix?!

Solution: Build a home wall.

Example: JP-City Rock Gym

Oh hell yes, after weeks of my only excitement coming from clicking the "SEND" button on my email, (I consistantly say SEEEENNNNDDD! to myself when I press it), I have successfully made a sick climbing wall in my garage. Check the pics yo.



Details: Basically if you have any holds that you don't need I will gladly take them. In turn, you'll receive a lifetime membership to my home wall. Yeah, can't beat that deal.

If you wanna come climb, call me up or send me some email at weekendbouldering@gmail.com

I'm always game for some sending.

If any of you know me from E-City, you know I was on top of the setting in the bouldering room. I also happen to be on top of the setting at JP City Rock Gym, so come climb and help celebrate the opening week of JP CITY ROCK GYM!!!!! YEAAAAHH!!!
-WB

The Rendezvous

FINALLY SOME CLIMBING!
And a whole lot of it...


Last Saturday Kyle, Ben, Spook and I headed out to some place in Western Mass for the WESTERN MASS CLIMBERS COALITION RENDEZVOUS THING (see below). Because no one in our group had never heard of the place all of our expectations were deteremined by two blurry shots on the new england bouldering website and a flier that ensured a bouldering competition.

After two weeks without climbing, this amount of information was enough to keep me psyched for days.

Finally, it was that brisk and beautiful Saturday morning, and off we went to Wendell State Forest. The very first thing we encountered when we arrived must have been foreshadowing to the strange form of climbing we were going to be doing during the rest of the day. We pulled up, and there to great us was a 180 pound Great Dane. This beast came up to my elbows when standing on all fours. and on two feet it was probably taller than me. To sum it up, this animal (more horse than dog) was named bob.

Now you may wonder what was so strange about this day. Why was it not like any other outdoor climbing festival? Well, the answer can be summed up more by a grade than a word or a sentence... V0. That's right, the mother of all moderates.

Let me put this in perspective for you. You set 109 problems for a competition. 80% of those problems are below V2. The only logical way to make a competition work? Quantity over quality my friends. Each problem, regardless of grade, was worth 2 points. Lets get started.

After warming up on several (about 25) moderates from VFun to V3, we reached a very notable problem called B Roof - V5. This sick line came out a low roof (lay down start) and had a wide variety of climbing to a crux top-out. Check the Pics below.

Burl.

You see where his feet are? thats where the problem starts... Yeah...

CRUX TOP-OUT EPICNESS!!!!

We then hit up some more moderates. We met up with a kid named Keagan we had climbed with at comps and he, Ben and I sunk into a unique climbing mindset in which climbing in our hiking shoes and packs without a pad became acceptable. Polishing off moderates left and right, our points climbed higher and higher until we reached another notable problem called Birds Nest - V4. This SICK line climbs out a small roof, through a beastly throw off a crimp to a crux last move. That last move had me shut down for a good ten tries until I sent. Yay.

We moved towards the final area and after doing a few cool slab problems, Ben and I sunk back into our speed climbing mindset. We were litterally sprinting from problem to problem in our climbing shoes (an act that would later leave me unable to touch my beet-red toes the next day), sending everything we could.

There were a few cool climbs along the way, but there was no time to stop and marvel at them, hurry, run to the downclimb and hop on something else! I swear the sun is getting lower.

This mindset carried us all the way till the end of the comp.

The tally?
Ben climbed 68 problems for a total of 136
I climbed 60 problems for a total of 120
The rest of the crew (FOOLS) were more focused on the quality climbing.
Psh... they have no clue.

Ben got pity third behind a ton of uber strong people and the next day I was more sore than I have ever been ever.
-WB

Go to this:

Fall Sucks

What JP!?!
No! Fall doesn't suck, the temps are great, snow hasn't fallen, and those leaves make great extra padding.

Right, they do make great padding, and the temps are great, and fall would be awesome, but, school happens. And lets put it this way, when you have school everyday till 3:00, no gym to climb at and a sun that decides to duck its head at around 7:00, Fall sucks.

Everyday in school I would daydream about where I wanted to go during the weekend... climbing wise, of course... and every night I would dream about climbing. Unfortunately, I am on my second week without climbing currently and I'm starting to see how this sport is like an addiction to some crazy hard drug.

-You try it because you think it's fun or a friend suggests it
-Most likely you may first try it with your friends
-You start doing it more and more
-People think you are crazy when you tell them about it
-Your friends consist mainly of other people who do it
-(In extreme cases)You find yourself sleeping on things that weren't meant to be slept on just to get a power nap in before you head off to find your next fix, eating nothing but cheesepuffs.

Coincidentally, the same symptoms apply to World of Warcraft users.

Yes, this blog post is negative, but that's my life right now. I come home from school and get a daily pump hanging on the molding of door frames. As fellow climbers, I hope you can relate, everyday I am not climbing is directly proportional to how badly I want to climb.

I mean, just look at this post! The only reason I am posting it is because talking about climbing is as close as I can get to climbing at the moment.

It's 10:04 PM on a Saturday and the fact that my non-throbbing fingers don't scream or secrete some strange fluid every time I type a letter is bothering me. Is that sick? Maybe. Am I okay with that? Yeah.

What happens to you guys when you don't climb?
Discuss plz.

In other news this guy Joel who took some pictures of the Boulderwoods Comp has not sent them to us yet... I'm waiting. Uhm... Murph hurt a digit and is out for a little. Last I heard, Ben and Nyle have been crushin' in New Paltz daily. If anyone is headin' out to climb, please, please contact me.

5189441080.
My name is JP, I have a pad, I am a great motivator.
I have an extra pair of shoes (they have holes)
Size 8. Or 7 1/2... I'm too lazy to check.

I guess that's all folks.

If you are Jewish thank you so much for your wonderful holidays.
I get to climb 3 days in a row next weekend.

-WB

Why is he climbing a mountain?

Alright, well, in a change of what we usually post up here on WB. I figured I would put up some media that isn't mine. 'Why we climb' is a big question. And honestly its extremely hard to put to words.

HOWEVER!

If anyone were to provide a generally excepted reason, I would want that person to be william shatner. And I would want him to spray it down over a sick techno beat.

HIT IT!



Why am I climbing the mountain? ...because I'm in love.

Competition at Boulderwoods Saturday

Saturday outdoor comp. at Boulderwoods on Crane Mountain.
Be there.

I don't know if there's prizes, but there are rocks to be climbed. That's good enough for me.


SEE YA THERE!
-WB

60 Boulderers at P-Kill

As we approached the outbreak boulder at Peterskill in the Gunks, we were taken aback by the mass of people climbing. Yes, 60 boulderers had gathered for the great conditions and some good climbing. We started working several different problems, Ben flashed The Classic One - V5. Next we moved up to Village Idiot - V7. Everyone, especially Spook, made great progress on the problem, but moods were slightly damaged after Spooky took a nasty fall.

After a little work on Mad Lion - V7, we moved over to the Mentos Boulder for work on the cool aretes there. Adam and I made great progress on Delicate Soul and Tiger Style, both good V7's.

And then we were burned out.

In other news, I am working with Western Mass. Climbers Coalition to make a guidebook for the Reservoir Rocks in Great Barrington. I'll put up some more details later. If anyone has any information on set names, boulder names, route names, first ascents and such please get in contact with me at weekendbouldering@gmail.com

Also, I seem to have lost my camera... hence the lack of pictures...

-WB

Can't Stop

Perhaps its the lack of me scaling rocks in my life right now or maybe it's just that I have nothing better to do, but I cannot stop bloggin'! Consider this like some sort of little present. This may be the first time I've ever posted new stuff 3 days in a row!
WOO!

Problem is there isn't much to talk about. I was thinking of posting up some more pictures, stuff never seen on the blog. And maybe I will, but, that's sort of boring. Instead I'm going to make my top five favorite problems list.

This is in no particular order.

1. Bromance - V5
I was drawn to the line every time we went to G.B., but we never got on it! And the one night we did I was shocked at how hard it was. I didn't think I could make the crux jump move, but I pulled some strength out of nowhere and got the F.A. of a really cool line.

2. Drop the Clutch - V5
Not sure why I like this one. I just do. I think mainly I like it because rarely on a problem do you have so many consecutive V5 moves without the grade being higher. This problem is incredibly sustained, and very different.

3. Thrust Vault - V3
From a cool beginning section to a committing last move and top-out, this problem has always had a place in my heart.

4. Coitus - V6
This one made the list because of a couple different things. First of all, it's a beautiful line of huecos and crimps. Second, the moves are incredibly fun. And lastly, the day I sent I took a bad fall and was extremely discouraged, but it was nice to know that I could pull myself back together.

5. Green Goddess - V7
Of course this makes my list, it was my first V7 and probably my first real project. Those are most of the reasons its one of my favorites.

Comment and list your top 5 please.
Discuss.
-WB

So much trouble

After so much trouble,
this.
is.
the.
real.
thing.
I Promise.
-WB

Yeah...

So we haven't had a new video in a month...

Call it me being nice, generous or just extremely bored and wanting to do something vaguely climbing related, but later tonight I'm gonna post up a new video from way back during the ADK Bouldering Weekend.

The first ever WeekendBouldering/GoldenCrimp video of Nine Cornered Lake.
Feat. Izzy, Aaron, JP, Ben, Kyle and Adam on Meat and Potatoes, Thorazine and Origin.

You're welcome.
-WB

Bromance

After a couple weeks of non-bouldering (roped climbing), Kyle, Adam and I rolled out to G.B. for some nighttime, late summer sends. Someone was missing from the crew however, that someone was Benjamin Horgen.

That's right, our beloved Ben is off to college in New Paltz, a fitting setting for the young crusher. Although we haven't met up with him yet down there we hear he's doing well... he sent the hardest problem in the gym in two tries.

Anyway, the whole crew had to overcome our feelings for Ben for a sick day of climbing at G.B... I don't know if you remember, but last time we went to G.B. we were attacked by a HORRENDOUS amount of mosquitoes. This time was no better, the little blood suckers were relentless would swarm the forearms and faces of whoever was climbing. Just another obstacle for the E-City crew to overcome.

We started our day at two boulders that Adam and I had found a cleaned a while back. They both have lines that haven't been done yet on them and we were hoping to nab some FA's. We started on a great problem called Closer - V3. Its a very cool problem in that the crux involves soft slopers reminescent of the south and rarely found in Great Barrington. Kyle and I hadn't sent yet, but after a few goes we both got the fun little line.

After a few goes on the ridiculous eliminate project Further - V?, which is on the same boulder as Closer, we headed over to another project that climbs a slightly overhung face out a small pit. From the looks of it I thought the problem would be easy, but it proved me wrong. We started taking goes in the pit only to find we were a little scared of the slightly sketchy fall. We discovered that the best way to protect on the problem was to put a spotter in the pit with you to guide you from falling onto either of the two rocks that form the pit. Needless to say, this made the situation in the pit very... close. Lets just say there was some serious spotter - climber bromance going on.

The route turned out to be a tad tricky. Smaller fingers help on this route due to the small slot you crimp down on. After attaining a nice sidepull via a kneebar or a high foot, you gear up for a very dynamic move to a small ledge. This shut our team down for a while as missing the ledge would definatelycause an interesting fall. But after feeling the move with Adam giving me a little weight, I knew it was very possible. On my last go, I wasn't thinking about the fall, or sending, or anything for that matter besides the move, and that's when I sent.

We named the problem Bromance - V5 after the spotting situation and also for our friend Ben. WE MISS YOU BEN! It's a SICK problem and if you're ever in the area it's up and right of the warm-up boulder infront of a very cool looking roof, to the left of Closer and Further and coming out of a small pit. If you go to The Optimist - V11 you've gone too far.

As the hours ticked away and the sun started to set, we moved up to The Platform Problem - V6. Kyle and Adam had been working this route for quite some time and were hoping to send the cool line today. As golden light splashed over the rock, Adam and Kyle began taking goes. After a little Adam sent using some new top-out beta just as the sun was setting. Nice send man. Kyle got wicked close, but couldn't unlock the feet.

After a few goes on Pistol Grip - V6+ we headed out of the G.B. woods in the dark. A good day... even if Ben wasn't there.
-WB

Wall Climbing on a Bouldering Blog... WHAT!?

Sorry about the wait fella's but the past two weeks I've been exploring the strange, alien world of sport climbing.

On July 24th I began a two week excursion to maine, then Quebec, then Maine again and finally Rumney. No, not to boulder, but to sport climb. I know, shocking.

I had made the trip last year to an amazing crag in Kamouraska, Quebec, but I felt with my new set of climbing skills it would be a valuable experiences to go once more to those beautiful white granite cliffs on the edge of the St. Lawerence.

And so with my neglected harness (which I found to be too small) and helmet I suited up to climb an "easy" 5.10. 2 clips later I was hanging on the rope shaking my forearms out for some futile escape from the rediculous pump that had poisened my climbing. For a moment I cursed my dang rope and harness and considered scouting for some boulders around the cliff. However, as I sat there staring at that blank face dotted with rain pockets and ledges, all I wanted to do was go a little higher. I got back on and found the further I went the further I wanted to go. Before I knew it I was sitting 70 feet up clipped into the anchor and savouring the exhaustion my forearms were feeling. I looked behind me at the unreal landscape of Kamouraska and I knew exactly why I climbed.

I think, and this is just what I think, the reason that I climb is to show myself that maybe I don't have to do everything for a reason. I mean sure, you can say you're trying to get to the top, trying to better yourself, get stronger, climb harder, blah blah blah. But whether you're bouldering, in the gym, on the wall or 1000 feet off the deck, hell, you're still just a kid on a jumbo-sized jungle gym. You're still just a kid playing in the woods. And do you think that little kid on the playground is going across the monkeybars for some greater purpose? No. When you think about it, climbing is silly. At some point that kid is going to think to himself: Why go across those monkeybars when I could just as easily walk to the other side?

Hanging there on that rope, cursing the pump, the rock, myself, I thought: Why am I doing this? I could just come down from this climb, walk away from this rock, throw away my shoes, pad and harness and go back to living a climbing-free life. And then it clicked. I guess I don't ever need to know why I climb, just that I do. As long as I get that sweet feeling of satisfaction mixed with What the fuck did I just do? at the top of every climb, who cares. So, why do I climb? ...Why not?

As for the rest of the trip, the pictures say it all.

John Whitworth on Moby Dick - 5.11b

John on Tache Noire - 5.9+

JP on Bonzai - 5.8

Matthew Lim on Tache Noire - 5.9+

The view.

Doug K. being a ball of burl on Moby Dick - 5.11b

If any of you ever get the chance to head to Kamouraska, go. Don't think, go. Litterally I have never been anywhere near as beautiful as this magical place. And its plethoura of moderates make it an incredible place to learn to sport climb. Just. Go.

After Kamou I spent another week in Rumney and had some killer sends, including an onsight of Flying Hawaiian - 5.11b. No pics though.

So after two weeks of non-stop sport climbing I came home to rest. And what did I do the following morning? That's right. Gathered up the crew and went out to climb. I wouldn't want it any other way.

-WB

More on this Later.

Kamouraska, Quebec, Moby Dick - 5.11b