Friday, April 1, 2011

Adirondack Lowdown - Part 1: Snowy Mountain Boulders

A few years back, when my friends and I were just beginning to dabble in the strange world of Adirondack Bouldering, we had heard rumors of a place of particular mystique. Talk of massive boulders, wonderland-esque features and one, game-changing word: huecos. Surely, such a place could not exist anywhere near us. But the topos in Adirondack ROCK told us otherwise, and soon we jetted out towards Snowy Mountain, unsure of what we would find.

The first thing one is struck by when approaching the boulders is the scale of Snowy Mountain. It is massive. From Rt. 30, you can make out the summit cliff and slide, and as a rock climber that kind of stuff just gets you antsy.

In the woods, a small boulderfield of 6 or 7 rocks makes up the majority of the climbing, but those few boulders pack a plethora of quality problems. The starting place for most newcomers is the Coitus Boulder, and rightfully so. Here, you can find one of the most classic V6's in the Adirondacks, Coitus - V6. Picture perfect technical moves through crimps and huecos and an exciting finish, it's hard to resist this aesthetic line.

Other problems of note include IHOPP - V7 and Never Been to Hueco - V7. These problems alone make Snowy Mountain a destination for any moderate climber, but one boulder in particular sets the area apart from everywhere else... the Cave Boulder.

Words fail to describe the strangeness of this block. It's almost like stepping inside the hollow inside of a boulder and climbing out the cracked shell that remains. The features require a certain form of climbing you won't find elsewhere, and most problems end in an exciting mantle-press top out.

Although small, Snowy Mountain offers a delightful break from hard Adirondack Gneiss, and allow the Northeast climber to play around on huecos, something every climber dreams of. Although my friends and I feel we have climbed out most of Snowy Mountain, there are a few elusive problems that I'd like to return to, and something tells me there are more boulders hidden on that hillside.

LOWDOWN

Name: Snowy Mountain Boulders
Location: Snowy Mountain, Indian Lake, NY
Trailhead: Off of Route 30, see Adirondack ROCK for specifics
Climbing Seasons: Late Spring through Early Fall
Rock Type: Softer, small-grain gneiss
Features: Sandy hueco pockets, fins, crimps and sloping top-outs
Climb Difficulty: Moderate-Hard, (V5-8)
Best Climbs: Cat in the Hat - V2, Coitus - V6, Insomnia - V6, IHOPP - V7, Never Been to Hueco - V7, The Cure - V8, Never Left Hueco - V8

This storm has left the Northeast looking pretty damp, but there is a little hope for climbing this weekend. If anyone would like to join, and has a car, and is psyched on either Lost City, Pottersville or anywhere else, you know what to do. (Leave a comment...)

Also, any ideas for the next ADK Lowdown post?

-WB




23 comments:

  1. pics and videos that is what we crave bud.Like you sending coitus and others.peace write something anything in between.parts of this new areas project of yours.Peace I am so damn close on never left Hueco Have done the jump to the lip matched it up got the really good hook just could not push the mantle out at the time.Can't wait to get back there peace.

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  2. yea vids and also if there are projs

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  3. i've got projects hidden all over these woods...maybe one day the secrets will get revealed

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  4. Pretty lame - stop spraying about the dacks -

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  5. Ouch, just trying to get the spirits up now that the snow's melting.

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  6. lol dang whats wrong with getting siked on some areas

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  7. Jp whats the deal it's so quiet in here write something any thing. lame no name that's lame. No ones spraying beta you hike these rigs how you see fit.Jp everyone if you have not heard Evan has sent the Probe. Well as of now it is no longer the Probe but a v12 of a unknown name yes boys and girls Evan said a v12.Evan if you are out there whats the low PEACE

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  8. Evan here - Clarification, when i said it was a v12 there was some extreme exaggeration. Due to it still being a project it obviously felt really hard. I did end up sending it april 4th. Theres 2 sequences that were unlocked. One going to the left on tities and booties and comming into the "new" probe. That line goes at a hard 9.. maybe a 10. The right sequence is the one that i would call the "probe". The climb is done the same way but instead of the great big slopper jug, you now have 2 micro crimps. This line goes at maybe a hard 10, or easy 11. Grade speculation is kinda garbage so ill just say go try it, cause its a sick line.

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  9. sweet cant wait to try that thing this summer

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  10. What happened to those pics of waterworks bud hook us up. Hope the conditions don't take a turn for the unclimbable this weekends bouldering PEACE

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  11. Jp whats up bud hook us up the masses cry out for more trust we are here for we are PEACE.

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  12. I call shenanigans on the "new awesome"...here are the devoted followers calling out for more media updates and nothing has followed, not even the promised Lost City photos from weeks prior...man i am losing my psych.

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  13. JJJJJJJJJJJJPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP answer the call my friend you are the host so you must post. PLEASE we BELIEVE post it and we shall read.PEACE

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  14. A single post in the past 4 weeks...come on man! Where is this age of the new awesome you got me hyped about?

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  15. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH come on pizzel

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  16. klyle txt me ur number amigo

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  17. Ben whats up bud lets see Top Gun, time will tell, daves problem, meat n potatoes, mr.Jones crack,cat in the hat,looker

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  18. hey man do u have the same cell tried to txt u when i was back but didnt work

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  19. I do but it was off this weekend sorry nine was sweet Saturday so dry an perfect temps an not a single bug probably the last weekend without bugs for sometime.Got on tower of power and another high ball past the cave wall on the cliff face then you traverse it out sketchy really long fun as hell.And there was like 9 people there got a look at a new project that starts on rip curl that will go around to the left to a sick dyno.I also heard from Brian that two new lines went up at Snowy Mt. One a v12 called salamander that is a sit start to the right of Never been to Hueco that goes into never been by Brian Kim and another I think he said a10 that is a sit start at Coitus and goes into the jump problem.Peace

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  20. Murph did that sit start from coitus into Jumper about 3 years ago...I believe Kippy repeated it as well that day, just saying. Kippy also did that arete right of Never Been...not sure if did a full sit start into it? Kippy, verification? ??

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  21. sweet its great to know this there are also a few new vids by Jut from last year from snowy that people may like and probably have already seen but if not check em out. Jp my friend whats up whats the word .The rain sucks who would like to go out this weekend weather permitting to either snowy, nine, green lake boulders, pine lake boulders, k peace out thanks for the clarification on the info I heard. JP you out there or should I say are you in here?

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  22. "Snowy Mountain Boulders"... Far out. I am heading into the woods below snowy today for what I thought was an attempt rediscover one of my favorite secret bouldering spots from my youth; I am blown away to find that anyone knows of it and that it's become a developed scene! The guide book says these were 'discovered' in 2003 but Jim Pavoldi, Jim Oppy, Josh Doolittle and Neal Knitel have been climbing these boulders and poking around this field since 1990. There was a fresh slide in the late 80's and "The Jims" set off from Fowler to get some shots of the tangled mess of trees at the bottom. It was after a long buswhack in from the road (where someone surely put an anvil in Jim's pack) when they accidentally came upon the boulder field. For the next 3 years it was known locally as The Dragon Nest as the boulders looked like the hatched eggs of something giant. There is a ton of opportunity here and A LOT more to explore than just the named projects folks have been trying to get their names on recently.

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  23. Jim, I only recently read your comment and I'm very intrigued... I always figured that a mountain as big as snowy must have more boulders on it somewhere. If you've got any info, I'm always trying to get out and explore new spots, and given the unique features that exist there, new boulders could be destiny.

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