Murph and Jut at Gnarnia

The kids spent a little time at the Gnar and nabbed some sends including the FAs of two new problems, Sleepyhead Stand - V7/8 and Vanilla Dreams - V5/6, and a couple repeats/sends of Unicorn of the Sea Stand. The epic problem is settling into the grade of V8, and the sit down is DESTINY.

Destiny.

News and Boredom

There is absolutely no point to this post besides me searching for a way to pass the time.

Chatted with Murph today. He's been out on the hunt for boulders around the Tupper Lake (Nine Corners) region; however, he recently shifted his focus to the Brant Lake (Gnarnia) area. The rock is all there, but access issues might block or limit the climbing.

He visited the Gnarwhal today to suss out the Unicorn of the Sea SDS project. He cleaned some holds, moved some rocks, and is psyched to start work. It's open season now.

Next week, I've got a bunch of days off, and given my lack of climbing these past few weekends, I hope to accomplish a few tasks.

1. I want to go to Gull Pond.

2. I want to go to New Paltz or Great Barrington

3. I want to go back to Gnarnia and check out surrounding rock

4. I want to go back to Old Bridge (Padanarum Road)

Hopefully, I'll achieve at least one of these and maybe, just maybe, I'll get it all done.

I need a damn license.

-WB

Climbing FO' FREE

There we were, pulled over on the shoulder of the road, the massively majestic Trapps filling the windshield of Ryan's periwinkle blue, 1980 Mercedes-Benz. We stared at the light tan ridge in silent debate, we could go to the Carriage Path, pay 15 dollars, and destroy our projects in the ideal conditions, or, we could take the right turn in front of us and head towards Triple Right.

Despite quiet, frustrated murmurs from Tyler, we took the right. 

Before long, we were sitting beneath Neapolitan, a classic V5 I sent last year (video), but something was wrong. It felt really hard. We quickly spotted a key hold breakage on the beautiful prow, making the send even more elusive. Eventually, Tyler sent with an incredible show of effort, which prompted him to confirm that the new problem was, in fact, not V5. For all intents and purposes, it's now Metrosexual - V6/7.

JP sets up to throw off of a bad sloper and a small slot

JP sticks the jump

We then spent some time on some other warm-ups, including a fun dyno and two semi-highball moderates.

Ryan Konopinski makes quick work of the dyno.

Since the moment we began considering Triple Right as a destination, a single motivation had consumed me, I had to send Gillete, a V6 that had thwarted my best efforts last year.

Ryan topping out a beautiful boulder.

The problem starts on two namesake crimps, which rip at your finger tips until specks of white bone begin to poke out of the bloody stumps you call fingers. It then moves to an incredible pinch with a surprisingly sharp thumb catch, and ends on an incredible, blind toss for an edge near the lip. I had never caught that toss. I would today.

Preparing to launch on Gillete - V6.

My fingers seemed to snap back into my palms, reluctant to touch the razor starting crimps, but after conditioning my fingers to handle the pain, my attempts became better and better.

 An unassuming Tyler stepped up to the two crimps and took off. He set up for the jump and threw. Suddenly, a sound emerged from Tyler that I have never heard a living thing make. He caught the hold. He did not swing. He just yelled. This roar erupted from Tyler and echoed amongst the trees for at least 10 minutes after he sent. Ryan and I stood with slack jaws.

Tyler also gave some good goes on Steppin' Razor - V9 (previously V10), and unlocked some key beta on the incredibly aesthetic and terrifying blade.

Tyler trying not to get cut by the beautiful Steppin' Razor - V9.

Before moving on, I wanted a few last attempts on Gillete. I wasn't going to leave without a send. I stepped up to the crimps and, for once, they didn't hurt that bad, infact, they were almost inviting me to climb on them. Before I knew it, I was on top of the boulder doing a send dance.

On of many near misses on Gillete - V6.

Tyler also sent Pussy Willow - V6, giving him at least three V6 sends for the day, and a plethora of other sends as well.

Tyler making a big move on Pussy Willow - V6.

But our day wasn't over.

We rushed over to the Carraige Path, arriving at 5:30, an eerie mist creeped over the town of New Paltz as daylight disintegrated. We flew up the stairmaster in record time, and best of all, we didn't have to pay. We arrived at the Yikes corridor to meet Tyler's friends Matt, Noah and Noah. Matt was tantalizingly close on Yikes - V9 (The problem everybody is working, and nobody is sending!) and Tyler  realized he was too tired to work on the problem tonight.

We topped our night off with a headlamp session at Black Boulder. I sent 4 times. Ryan got VERY close.

The true end to our evening was at Mexicali Blue.

The end.

-WB