Monday, July 5, 2010

4th of July and Gnarnia

Since I was at my wonderful camp on Brant Lake all weekend, I spent a good 3 days at the developing boulderfield, Gnarnia.

Saturday was a half day of climbing for Spook and me and all of our focus was directed at a problem we had eyed on previous visits, what would be dubbed The Room Project works up and left on a crimp seam.

The moves proved incredibly interesting, and we both got all the moves, but failed to piece it together.

The problem starts on good crimps and then utilizes a high foot to reach left hand to a gaston, following a fall in to a strange crimp pinch sloper thing. This crux sequence is then followed by a very low percentage jump move and a not so easy top-out sequence.

After a little bit of work, I nabbed the FA of The Room - V7 alone in the woods with only my little metolius pad under me for comfort on the top-out. So pumped.

Also on Saturday I hiked to Gull Pond, an area described in Adirondack Rock and several other guides as a beautiful pond with sheer rock cliffs. Turns out there are cliffs, and boulders, large, overhung boulders with incredible features.

Gull Pond Cliff. And Boulders.

And due to a beautiful setting and the 0.5 mile, DEC maintained approach this area holds some promise...

Adam came to gnarnia today and got the second ascent of The Room and also cleaned a few lines including 3 new V0s! Gnarnia's first V0s!

New V0s
- Pennyroyal - FA JP Whitehead
- Double Dog - FA JP Whitehead
- Lightning Block - FA Adam Catalano

Pennyroyal is kinda dumb... but Double Dog and Lightning Block are very fun slabs with cool features. Finally some good warm ups.

The bugs were horrendous... if you're going to Gnarnia... bring bug spray.

Bathe in bug spray.

-WB

1 comment:

  1. New problems went up this weekend.
    V4 Elephant Skin - Fun two move sloppy problem just down the trail from Gnarwall.
    V5 Shark Fin - Fun start, Low Roof to hard Arete topout, just up from Treeboob
    V2 Twisted Tooth - left crack/arete on the Gnarwall is amazing. Go do it!

    Must do routes at Gnarnia:
    Unicorn of the Sea V4/5 or lower start V9
    Twisted Tooth V2
    Stuff of Dreams V4
    The Room V7

    Agree? Additions?

    ReplyDelete

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