Thursday, June 3, 2010
Photo Special!
In response to the barrage of PHOTO SPECIALS various climbing magazines have been and are currently spewing at us we felt we would make a little photo special of our own.
Courtesy of Tyler Hogan and Aaron Newell:
But really though, we had a grand 'ol time at McKenzie this past weekend, and I am happy to say it was one of the most epic days I have had in a while. I guess that's the dacks for you...
The epicness began while my I allowed my eyes to rest in the stuffy heat of the loft at my camp on Brant. Just as I was beginning to drift into dreams of boulders, Tyler texted me speaking of climbing the following day.
My mind immediately was focused on the dull pain in my tips, two days of working sharp projects at Gnarnia had left them bruised and red. The decision I had made thousands of times was yet again unchanged by the slow, creeping pain and I immediately said yes to an early morning and sharp Adirondack gneiss.
We began our day on Slobodon - V5, which Aaron, a kid we met named Lucas, and I sent quickly. Aaron began working on Super Karate Chop - V8. He had quickly sent what we believed to be Karate Chop - V7... but it was actually Global Chop Suey - V2. He got close on Super.
Suddenly, bounding through the woods came a curly-haired, headband wearing man with a beautiful dog. They looked a little worn after a night spent in the woods. This, was Nick, a guy who I had been in contact with over email/facebook. He was quickly welcomed into our group and we moved back to the 3rd set.
While Aaron, Tyler and Lucas began work on Flux Capacitor - V8, I decided to show Nick my favorite problem at the Pond, Thrust Fault - V3. The mix of height, smooth movement and a crux last move make this problem perfect. And now it holds a special place in my heart as the problem that gave me my first ever flapper. It was a pretty epic fall and a *bloody* good time.
Tyler made some really good progress on Flux and it'll be interesting to see how he does next time. While I was telling a man with INSANELY STRONG FINGERS (he was working a project called BUCKETS OF BLOOD that had two of the smallest holds I have ever seen) about my fall, a pair of strong, familiar arms surrounded me and lifted me up.... Kyle. Turns out Kyle made the drive up to McKenzie with Evan and Izzy. He told us that Evan sent Stanfields - V9 like it was his job. Typical.
Izzy also sent, with ease, a problem of hers called Brock Lee Soars - V2.
We parted for a little, and then met back up with them at my goal for the day b.f. (before flapper): Giant Sucker - V2. This intimidating and strangely irresistible slab had been on my list since last year. We all began giving goes and in a flurry of awkward dances, scary falls, good spotting, bullshitting and picture taking the true essence of bouldering shined through. Bouldering, after all, is a social sport that can sometimes be a little childish.
On our way home, we stopped and grabbed some Tacos at a road side stand and gossiped about roadside-stand-betrayal with the owner.
Epic.
-WB
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The rock at the Pond is Anorthosite.
ReplyDeleteWe got the same story at the taco stand, fired employee sets up stand with same menu. Nothing like small town drama. Too funny!
On par or better than UC Mag. None of these would end up on a phone book cover.
ReplyDeleteI think every blog needs to do a "Photo Special". Mine will focus on climbers with plumber cracks showing... cropped to the cracks only.
we should just take pictures of feet on footholds. not hands. feet. they don't even have to be small footholds.
ReplyDeleteAnd anorthosite is a type of gneiss. A very sharp, unforgiving, flapper produces, rubber testing kind of gneiss.
ReplyDelete