There was no doubt in my mind.
Countless weather stations were reporting 80%, 90%, 100% chance of rain at Crane Mountain on the Friday after Thanksgiving, but for some reason I still wanted to go outside. Even I was beginning to question my sanity.
I found a ride with Aaron, who seemed to share this reckless passion, and we agreed to set out on Friday.
When I woke up Friday, the ground was still wet from an evening shower... but it wasn't pouring as the weather report suggested... before heading out the door I quickly re-checked my sources... still 90% chance of rain.
Yet, as we drove to Crane, patches of blue sky could be seen, and sure, it was overcast, but not dark, foreboding rain clouds, more like light, fluffy, nice clouds... Neither of us wanted to say those magic words "It's hasn't started raining yet" for fear of falling off the thin weather line we were riding.
The miracle had already begun.
We arrived at Crane and found mostly everything was dry! It made no sense, sure there was some wet rock, but most of it was climbable... weird. Still scared at the clouds that loomed above the trees and the fog that coated distant mountains, we got to climbing.
A few percipitationless hours later, we were at Swillin' through a headnet - V4. Probably one of the better problems at Boulderwoods. Aaron flashed, and in another strange act of the weather... something started to fall from the sky... what could it be? It wasn't rain, no it was... oh my god its snow. It was snowing. The first snow I had seen of the season.
Wow.
Even with the snow, it was less than a small flurry, we continued to climb a little longer. Aaron had been telling me about some huge, awesome looking boulders a little lower on the mountain, so we went to go look.
Wow.
What we found were huge, incredible boulders, despite Aaron having a camera in his pocket the WHOLE TIME we failed to take any pictures, so let me describe this to you. 20 foot 45 degree sections of grey, yellow and orange colored rock. Neon orange rock dotted with patina crimps, huge, dimpled slabs and incredibly sustained overhanging fingercracks. Giant caves littered with very hard lines on devious little crimps.
Unfortunatly we lacked the tools to clean these giant boulders, but during our search in the unknown we were suddenly face to face with a blue, taught wire that ran for several yards at the base of the hill... it lied very close to the ground, close enought to trip on. Aaron described how he was a little paranoid of things going BOOM if we touched the wire, so we tried our best to avoid it... weird.
Finally, the sun began to set, and we realized something, besides the few flakes of snow there was not 1 rain drop on this 90% chance of rain day... We had truly lucked out.
It seems the climbing gods shine upon those that dare to go out when no one else will and that dare to go where no one else has.
-WB
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Monday, November 23, 2009
Gravity Sucks
Gravity DOES suck.
Ben, Kyle, Spook and I learned this disheartening fact at G.B. Saturday... well... maybe not Spook.
We started off at the probe, a boulder we haven't gone too in a while, and got to warming up. We all quickly set our sights on a cool, pumpy, crimpy traverse into the warm up. Spooky sent after a bunch of goes, and despite my best efforts (I got past the crux and fell on the "warm up" section) I did not send... damn pump. For the sake of this blog we'll call it Kettle Traverse - V5
Ben and Kyle gave a few goes at The Probe - V9, although unsuccessful, Ben is pretty psyched to get back on the cool little problem.
We then headed up to the main part of G.B. where Ben and Spook began to work on The Bump. After so... so... so... SO many tries, no one sent. Contrary to the video, Ben didn't start from the beginning... too bad.
I felt pretty rested and was ready to get in some goes at my long standing highball prize proj, Snooze Button. I made some good progress, but the Kettle Traverse had left my fingers tender and my forearms sore... although I worked out what I think is the top-out beta, it'll have to wait.
We decided to go search around for Two-Stroke... but, it was wet, so we settled on a problem in a small pit next to it, for the sake of this blog we'll call it Red Light - V7. Ben, upon looking at the heinously small crimps at the bottom of the problem, called it v11. I was pretty confident that was false, and Spook proved me right by sending the cool problem. Red Light is full of moves you would never find outdoor, crazy pinches, double kneebars, you name it.
Although no one sent anything, besides Spooky, it wasn't a bad day... still wish I had spent less time on Kettle and more time on Snooze. Anyways, check out the new video (I posted it on Vimeo for a change... tell me what you think?) and have a nice Thanksgiving. I'll be climbing all break :]
-WB
Ben, Kyle, Spook and I learned this disheartening fact at G.B. Saturday... well... maybe not Spook.
We started off at the probe, a boulder we haven't gone too in a while, and got to warming up. We all quickly set our sights on a cool, pumpy, crimpy traverse into the warm up. Spooky sent after a bunch of goes, and despite my best efforts (I got past the crux and fell on the "warm up" section) I did not send... damn pump. For the sake of this blog we'll call it Kettle Traverse - V5
Ben and Kyle gave a few goes at The Probe - V9, although unsuccessful, Ben is pretty psyched to get back on the cool little problem.
We then headed up to the main part of G.B. where Ben and Spook began to work on The Bump. After so... so... so... SO many tries, no one sent. Contrary to the video, Ben didn't start from the beginning... too bad.
I felt pretty rested and was ready to get in some goes at my long standing highball prize proj, Snooze Button. I made some good progress, but the Kettle Traverse had left my fingers tender and my forearms sore... although I worked out what I think is the top-out beta, it'll have to wait.
We decided to go search around for Two-Stroke... but, it was wet, so we settled on a problem in a small pit next to it, for the sake of this blog we'll call it Red Light - V7. Ben, upon looking at the heinously small crimps at the bottom of the problem, called it v11. I was pretty confident that was false, and Spook proved me right by sending the cool problem. Red Light is full of moves you would never find outdoor, crazy pinches, double kneebars, you name it.
Although no one sent anything, besides Spooky, it wasn't a bad day... still wish I had spent less time on Kettle and more time on Snooze. Anyways, check out the new video (I posted it on Vimeo for a change... tell me what you think?) and have a nice Thanksgiving. I'll be climbing all break :]
Gravity Sucks - Great Barrington from JP Whitehead on Vimeo.
-WB
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
WB Climbing Forecast - 11/18/09
WHERE ARE WE GOING?
Right now, to be honest, I am not really sure... but we've got options...
I had really wanted to get to Boulderwoods once more before the harsh winds of winter set in, but after reviewing the weather for various locations... the Daks aren't looking so hot.
In addition to the daks, I looked at Great Barrington and the Gunks, so far, Great Barrington looks better.
WEATHER FORECAST:
At G.B... and everywhere else of note, rain is scheduled pretty much all day Friday. The only difference in G.B. is that it should be ending at a little before midnight, and the forecast for Saturday is partly cloudy all day. Other areas, including Boulderwoods, Nine Corners and McKenzie, show signs of rain on Saturday... some even say snow.
SHOULD WE CLIMB?
Depends on how the next few days play out. As of right now I would say G.B. is our best bet for dry rock on Saturday, it has pulled off miracle dryness in worse conditions, who's to say it won't this time? I'll keep my eye on the weather and post up anything new developments.
Until then, I would like to talk about commenting.
You. You read this blog right? Thats a rhetorical question, of course you read this blog. Now lets say you were putting a good deal of procrastination time into writing what you think is a fairly nice piece of work that you put a lot of thought into... wouldn't you want some feedback? Show me some love people! Or not! Whatever feelings you have for me or this blog or climbing or kittens just post it in the comment section! It's not that hard. Thanks for your time.
-WB
Right now, to be honest, I am not really sure... but we've got options...
I had really wanted to get to Boulderwoods once more before the harsh winds of winter set in, but after reviewing the weather for various locations... the Daks aren't looking so hot.
In addition to the daks, I looked at Great Barrington and the Gunks, so far, Great Barrington looks better.
WEATHER FORECAST:
At G.B... and everywhere else of note, rain is scheduled pretty much all day Friday. The only difference in G.B. is that it should be ending at a little before midnight, and the forecast for Saturday is partly cloudy all day. Other areas, including Boulderwoods, Nine Corners and McKenzie, show signs of rain on Saturday... some even say snow.
SHOULD WE CLIMB?
Depends on how the next few days play out. As of right now I would say G.B. is our best bet for dry rock on Saturday, it has pulled off miracle dryness in worse conditions, who's to say it won't this time? I'll keep my eye on the weather and post up anything new developments.
Until then, I would like to talk about commenting.
You. You read this blog right? Thats a rhetorical question, of course you read this blog. Now lets say you were putting a good deal of procrastination time into writing what you think is a fairly nice piece of work that you put a lot of thought into... wouldn't you want some feedback? Show me some love people! Or not! Whatever feelings you have for me or this blog or climbing or kittens just post it in the comment section! It's not that hard. Thanks for your time.
-WB
Monday, November 16, 2009
Night Bouldering
On Tuesday morning, already psyched for the day off I was getting Wednesday for Veterans day, I got a text from my good friend Morgan...
"Were going night bouldering at Nine Corners tonight... you in?"
"Were going night bouldering at Nine Corners tonight... you in?"
"Hell yes."
I had never been acquainted with the new, exciting and slightly frightening world of night bouldering, and as it would turn out, the motley crew I climbed with hadn't either. The night was full of stars, and the 50 degree air welcomed us into the woods.
My heart was beating faster than it usually would on the casual walk into Nine Corners, my world was based solely on what my headlamp flashed against... A tree, a boulder, eyes, more tree- wait... were those eyes? Oh, they were, and they were moving toward me... quickly.
Frozen in fear, I stared directly at this beast barreling towards me until...
My silent attacker wasn't some creature of the night, it was Buddy. One of the guys I was climbing with's dog.
Still, my heart had been stirred, in a good way, I knew this was going to be an interesting night and it had plenty more scares in store for me.
Nine Corners is a different world at night, without the aid of warm, refreshing sunlight, Boulders seem taller, falls seem longer and holds feel so much better. I hopped on Long Live Legos - V5, a cool, blocky arete that I had worked before, but never sent. After getting through the problems crux first move and small jump, I was on the top-out...
At night, you feel alone. More than ever before, it was just me and the boulder, I couldn't see the ground... or my spotter or single pad that sat below me, all I could see was what I hoped would be an alright hold on the arete just a few feet from my face. I threw, missed, and in a feat of intense terror, joy, excitement and pure emotion, I somehow managed to campus match my right hand... This fight was far from over.
Once again I threw for the hold, hit it, and carried out the top-out, trembling from fear.
I was hooked.
I now, officially, loved night bouldering.
The rest of the night flew by, and before we even knew it, we exhausted our 2 baguettes and (less importantly) our finger tips.
I think I can speak for the whole crew when I say night bouldering was exciting and peaceful, calm and intense, strangly pure and incredibly fun. I am eagerly awaiting the next text from Morgan, and to go back into the woods.
On the way out, I saw a strange mass coming out of the lake... oh god... not this again. Jokingly, I said to Morgan, "What is it!?". In reply (trying to be scary) she said, "It's the Nine Corners Seal!"
The ridiculous statement soothed my nerves and I was even more relieved to find it was just the dog again. It was the dog again, but I swear I saw something else swimming out in the lake... perhaps there is a Nine Corners Seal. Yeah, and he only graces his presence upon those brave enough to hike out into the woods late at night and do what they love.
Go, see for yourself.
-WB
I had never been acquainted with the new, exciting and slightly frightening world of night bouldering, and as it would turn out, the motley crew I climbed with hadn't either. The night was full of stars, and the 50 degree air welcomed us into the woods.
My heart was beating faster than it usually would on the casual walk into Nine Corners, my world was based solely on what my headlamp flashed against... A tree, a boulder, eyes, more tree- wait... were those eyes? Oh, they were, and they were moving toward me... quickly.
Frozen in fear, I stared directly at this beast barreling towards me until...
My silent attacker wasn't some creature of the night, it was Buddy. One of the guys I was climbing with's dog.
Still, my heart had been stirred, in a good way, I knew this was going to be an interesting night and it had plenty more scares in store for me.
Nine Corners is a different world at night, without the aid of warm, refreshing sunlight, Boulders seem taller, falls seem longer and holds feel so much better. I hopped on Long Live Legos - V5, a cool, blocky arete that I had worked before, but never sent. After getting through the problems crux first move and small jump, I was on the top-out...
At night, you feel alone. More than ever before, it was just me and the boulder, I couldn't see the ground... or my spotter or single pad that sat below me, all I could see was what I hoped would be an alright hold on the arete just a few feet from my face. I threw, missed, and in a feat of intense terror, joy, excitement and pure emotion, I somehow managed to campus match my right hand... This fight was far from over.
Once again I threw for the hold, hit it, and carried out the top-out, trembling from fear.
I was hooked.
I now, officially, loved night bouldering.
The rest of the night flew by, and before we even knew it, we exhausted our 2 baguettes and (less importantly) our finger tips.
I think I can speak for the whole crew when I say night bouldering was exciting and peaceful, calm and intense, strangly pure and incredibly fun. I am eagerly awaiting the next text from Morgan, and to go back into the woods.
On the way out, I saw a strange mass coming out of the lake... oh god... not this again. Jokingly, I said to Morgan, "What is it!?". In reply (trying to be scary) she said, "It's the Nine Corners Seal!"
The ridiculous statement soothed my nerves and I was even more relieved to find it was just the dog again. It was the dog again, but I swear I saw something else swimming out in the lake... perhaps there is a Nine Corners Seal. Yeah, and he only graces his presence upon those brave enough to hike out into the woods late at night and do what they love.
Go, see for yourself.
-WB
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Monday, November 9, 2009
SPRAYDAY / CLIMBING FORECAST
What!?A Sprayday and a Climbing Forecast on the SAME POST...!?
This. Is incredible.
Lets start with...
THE SPRAY!
Ah the Carraige Road, I hadn't experienced your wonderful climbing in quite a while. Basically, last Saturday we rolled out to the Gunks to clean up all the projects that didn't go last season.
The day kicked off with Aaron sending Black Boulder - V5, a notable send no doubt. After we all gave some good goes at that problem, we went to a smaller, less aesthetic boulder next to it.
Black Head is listed in the guidebook as "V - Diculous". This grade is soo appropriate. Beta? Grab the pebbly sloper, top-out. Adam, Ben and I managed to complete this stupid human trick... it's actually pretty fun.
Next we moved down to the Meaning of Life Boulder.
I would like to allude back to one of the first posts where I talk about my long standing project, Meaning of Life. It had been a year and a half since I first gave goes at the problem. It had to go today... after a few tries,
I sent.
Yes.
YES.
Adam and Ben also sent and Adam flashed his project, The Following, right next to it. Good Day so far.
Aaron made another notable send that day with the CRUSHING of Marakesh Express - V6.
Good work bro.
After playing around by the Boxcar Boulder, we went way back to the beginning of the road to work on Jackson Pollock - V8. It was pretty fun, and maybe it'll go next time, but dwindling light, sore fngers and tired forearms forced us down the stair master and home.
I know this SPRAYDAY is late, but there are several reasons for that. Mostly, I had a really bad migrane yesterday, and the thought of staring into a computer screen made my head hurt even more.
One day late isn't so bad though... right? Sorry.
OKAY SO,
First off, I am going over to nine corners tonight for some NIGHT BOULDERING with morgan from the gym and some other people.
Second, we are heading to Snowy Mtn. tomorrow for some last minute sends before the snowy winter.
Third, this weekend there is a comp at metrorock. Should be fun.
Lastly, I have to go rake now... hope this is good enough for you Ben!
OH and once I get pictures from Spook I'll add more to this post...
-WB
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
WB Climbing Forecast - 11/4/09
Sendtember is long gone, Roctober has fallen past us like the leaves on the trees, and now we find ourselves in the next conditionally wonderful month of Gnarvember... or No-Hand-Rest-vember?... Nubvember?... Obamawonanoblepeaceprizevember? Eh, whatever clever pun you come up with for this wonderful month (and please, show me those puns in the comments!) there is no doubt how awesome the month is for climbing.... and food.... can't forget that glorious food.
WHERE ARE WE GOING:
Carraige Road in the Gunks
WEATHER FORECAST:
The weather so far is calling for clear skies all day long. This, coupled with a nice looking day Friday, should produce the first qEXCELLENT climbing day in a long time.
SHOULD WE CLIMB:
Yes, yes, yes, ten times over yes!!! This is the day we've been waiting for and some serious sending shall be seen. Although this fall has failed us thus far with its rainy tendencies, I consider this weekend a gift from the climbing gods.... Lets make the best of it...
Also, I need to send meaning of life.
Also, Luke needs to get footy.
OTHER NEWS:
Not really any news, I'm writing this from my Comp Sci 1 Class though...
Mr. Baciewicz has told me to stop blogging a good 5 or 6 times now...
Also, I just decided that I'll try very hard to put a post out every Monday regarding the sends on Saturday. No longer shall Monday be Monday... now it shall be known as SPRAYDAY.
It's fun being organized!
Bye.
-WB
WHERE ARE WE GOING:
Carraige Road in the Gunks
WEATHER FORECAST:
The weather so far is calling for clear skies all day long. This, coupled with a nice looking day Friday, should produce the first qEXCELLENT climbing day in a long time.
SHOULD WE CLIMB:
Yes, yes, yes, ten times over yes!!! This is the day we've been waiting for and some serious sending shall be seen. Although this fall has failed us thus far with its rainy tendencies, I consider this weekend a gift from the climbing gods.... Lets make the best of it...
Also, I need to send meaning of life.
Also, Luke needs to get footy.
OTHER NEWS:
Not really any news, I'm writing this from my Comp Sci 1 Class though...
Mr. Baciewicz has told me to stop blogging a good 5 or 6 times now...
Also, I just decided that I'll try very hard to put a post out every Monday regarding the sends on Saturday. No longer shall Monday be Monday... now it shall be known as SPRAYDAY.
It's fun being organized!
Bye.
-WB
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