Weekend Bouldering Blog: Grand Theft Cannon

Three Fingers latching on Shade - V5

Sorry for how the long break in posts, but, truth be told, there has not been too much to talk about. Last week a crew consisting of Adam, Ben, Kyle, Sam and Myself headed over to Great Barrington with some optimism and hopes for dry rock during this horrible weather we have been having. Unfortunatly almost everything was moist if not soaked. After trying a few things only to find they were not in sending conditions, we decided to scout for new stuff all day.

We headed all the way right, past filter and above the warm-up boulder to search for new stone and good lines. We found a few things, not really worth trying, and then we stumbled upon a beautiful wall. Not too tall, a bunch of obvious, easy lines and a good landing. Although it was still too wet to do anything with. We left G.B. with no sends, but a lot of hope.

1 week past, and the rain sprinkled on our spirits as the holy weather.com spoke of scattered thunderstorms in G.B. all week! Adam and I stayed as optimistic as possible during these dark, wet times. We rolled out Friday once again in hopes of the stone being dry.

On arrival it was clear the rock was MUCH less wet than last time. We headed up to the wall we had found before and began cleaning off the top with a technique we dubbed "Carpeting". This whole new corridor of problems we named Neverland Ranch after the late, great king of pop... Miss you M.J. First thing to go was the Jackson Crack - V1+, the most obvious line on the boulder. The striking diagonal crack is an instant classic and a REAL fun route, I nabbed first ascent with Adam getting the second and Kyle getting third. Next we worked a variation to the crack that traversed to the right arete of the boulder. Moonwalk - V2 involves some fancy footwork and fun moves. Once again I got the FA, Kyle got the Second and Adam got Third. Then we tried an easier line on the boulder we call Billy Jean - V0.

Up above the main wall lie two more hidden gems (and possibly a third???) Smooth Criminal - V2 and Bad - V2. Both were very cool. I think Smooth Criminal is one of the best problems there. Even though all the problems we found were fairly easy, its a good change for G.B.

For anyone that climbs under V4, the place is no fun, at least now they've got some good lines to work.

Since we didn't do much climbing on Friday, Adam and I went Saturday because the weather report was SO promising. Mix of sun and clouds all day, no chance of a thunderstorm. Hell. Yes.

The rock was ten times drier than any day before, immediately our spirits were lifted. We snooped around a little and decided to go over and work Shade - V5. A line that Ben FA'd last year. I found some new beta and got the second acsent. For being only a couple moves its a REAL fun problem. Adam soon got third. We checked out a low right sit start to Shade, only to find its lack of feet made it super burly, probs V9...

Adam Hitting the Crux Sloper on Shade - V5

We headed back up to the Spack boulder so I could work Green Goddess - V7. I've had my eye on this one forever! And I was hoping to make some serious progress today. Even though the crucial second crimp was a tad moist, I made really REALLY good progress, almost sticking the crux a few times. But then it started raining and I was very discouraged. Next time it'll go. No doubt. We fooled around a little more on some new stuff we found. Adam sent a cool problem called Closer - V4. We also worked a dynamic eliminate to it called Further- V?. We didn't send.