Finally Dry.

Ben Chillin' in Neverland Ranch

Before we left for G.B. yesterday the weather report was calling for showers in the area around four. We would be leaving for G.B. at four. Immediately I was worried, but we had dealt with the wet before, we could do it again. Luckily we did not have to, as we reached the cozy town of Great Barrington, the skies were blue in all directions, the temperature sat in the high seventies and the humidity was at a sticky 70% or so.

Murph and his girlfriend Mira met us up there and wanted to see some of the new stuff we put up. So into Neverland Ranch we ventured. Everything there is a LOT easier when dry. One new one went up called The White Glove - V3. Here are what the rocks look like:

Murph Brushing Thriller - V?... its really hard.

It's a lot longer than it looks...
From left to right: Break of Dawn - V1, Moonwalk - V1, Billy Jean - V0, The White Glove - V3

More pictures to come.

THE SPRAY:

After that we realized how late it was getting and headed over to the Spack boulder, the Shade boulder and the Fotwa boulder. Kyle and I sat down infront of Green Goddess - V7, Mira and Murph worked Shade - V5 and Ben and Adam worked Pistol Grip - V6/7 and Fotwa - V9. The holds felt much better on Green Goddess and I sent after a few burns making it my first 7. After working Shade a bit Murph sent, and later that day Mira sent with some even new-er-er beta! Pistol Grip went for both Ben and Adam, so Ben started working his project Fotwa.

He began to dial in the crux first move, but began falling due to many things on the top section. After making great progress he unfortunatly couldn't send. Oh, but it will go next time. We're going back out to G.B. this Wednesday.

Until then, there is a new vid up on DPM: Sunseeker
-WB

P.S. Murph, you're now included.

Grand Theft Cannon

Three Fingers latching on Shade - V5

Sorry for how the long break in posts, but, truth be told, there has not been too much to talk about. Last week a crew consisting of Adam, Ben, Kyle, Sam and Myself headed over to Great Barrington with some optimism and hopes for dry rock during this horrible weather we have been having. Unfortunatly almost everything was moist if not soaked. After trying a few things only to find they were not in sending conditions, we decided to scout for new stuff all day.

We headed all the way right, past filter and above the warm-up boulder to search for new stone and good lines. We found a few things, not really worth trying, and then we stumbled upon a beautiful wall. Not too tall, a bunch of obvious, easy lines and a good landing. Although it was still too wet to do anything with. We left G.B. with no sends, but a lot of hope.

1 week past, and the rain sprinkled on our spirits as the holy weather.com spoke of scattered thunderstorms in G.B. all week! Adam and I stayed as optimistic as possible during these dark, wet times. We rolled out Friday once again in hopes of the stone being dry.

On arrival it was clear the rock was MUCH less wet than last time. We headed up to the wall we had found before and began cleaning off the top with a technique we dubbed "Carpeting". This whole new corridor of problems we named Neverland Ranch after the late, great king of pop... Miss you M.J. First thing to go was the Jackson Crack - V1+, the most obvious line on the boulder. The striking diagonal crack is an instant classic and a REAL fun route, I nabbed first ascent with Adam getting the second and Kyle getting third. Next we worked a variation to the crack that traversed to the right arete of the boulder. Moonwalk - V2 involves some fancy footwork and fun moves. Once again I got the FA, Kyle got the Second and Adam got Third. Then we tried an easier line on the boulder we call Billy Jean - V0.

Up above the main wall lie two more hidden gems (and possibly a third???) Smooth Criminal - V2 and Bad - V2. Both were very cool. I think Smooth Criminal is one of the best problems there. Even though all the problems we found were fairly easy, its a good change for G.B.

For anyone that climbs under V4, the place is no fun, at least now they've got some good lines to work.

Since we didn't do much climbing on Friday, Adam and I went Saturday because the weather report was SO promising. Mix of sun and clouds all day, no chance of a thunderstorm. Hell. Yes.

The rock was ten times drier than any day before, immediately our spirits were lifted. We snooped around a little and decided to go over and work Shade - V5. A line that Ben FA'd last year. I found some new beta and got the second acsent. For being only a couple moves its a REAL fun problem. Adam soon got third. We checked out a low right sit start to Shade, only to find its lack of feet made it super burly, probs V9...

Adam Hitting the Crux Sloper on Shade - V5

We headed back up to the Spack boulder so I could work Green Goddess - V7. I've had my eye on this one forever! And I was hoping to make some serious progress today. Even though the crucial second crimp was a tad moist, I made really REALLY good progress, almost sticking the crux a few times. But then it started raining and I was very discouraged. Next time it'll go. No doubt. We fooled around a little more on some new stuff we found. Adam sent a cool problem called Closer - V4. We also worked a dynamic eliminate to it called Further- V?. We didn't send.

JP Almost Sticking the Crux on Green Goddess - V7

And thats what we have been up to! We will preobably go to G.B. a bunch more this summer.

Keep on sendin'

Peace

-WB

P.S. I just found out Billy Mays is dead... What has the world come to.

Summer Has Begun!

Ah yes, as I walked out of my Earth Science Regents Exams and stepped into Kyle's truck directly headed for Nine Corners, I knew Summer was here. And, after a short kitchen raid for food at my house, the best part of Summer was waiting for us. Bouldering, that is.

We got to Nine Corners in beautiful temps with dry cool air sitting in the forest. We started our warm-ups and finished up Can You See My Eyeball - V3 which has been a bit of a beta intensive project for me. Next we went down to Origin - V4. Although we failed to get psyched, so we headed back up to Thorazine - V8.

Thorazine was Ben's wish for the day and he worked it hard. The powerful problem works its was up a vertical seam on the 20 degree wall. After discovering some good beta, Ben made a lot of progress but was way to tired to finish up the problem.

We then headed back to the Ying Yang boulder and worked Power of Belief - V4 and Power of Pessimism - V7. Although no one sent, there was clear progress. We then played around on the cave wall for a little and mostly got shut down, before it got too dark Ben decided to climb a lichen-y, dirty, high angle slab in sneakers... Not the brightest member of our group but still... SEND!

-WB

Wetness.

A pretty large crew went out to P-Kill today and enjoyed the wonderfully perfect texture and dryness... minus the texture and dryness part...

While most of the problems were soaked, the Mentos boulder (which juts its squared off face into the sun) stayed fairly dry. After some kinda wet warm ups we headed over to it and began work. We started with Mentos - V4. Most of the crew sent, with the exception of Tara who made EXCELLENT progress. Oh, she shall send no doubt.

Next, we started working Delicate Soul - V7. Delicate is the long, aesthetic lip traverse which spans the length of the boulder. Some hard, fun, heel-hook intensive starting moves lead to a technique-y and pumpy ending. Overall, everyone made progress and no one sent. Once the texture gets a little better it could see many a send.

Pinto clearly enjoying his time on Delicate Soul - V7

Finally, Kyle, Josh and Brian began working Tiger Style - V7. This cool pinchy arete kept them working for a while, but once the send train started it kept on chuggin till all the cars had reached the station. Kyle started it off with an impressive finish and a good send. Sam got on next and crushed with a super smooth finishing jump. And finally Josh, the Kaboose, did the last dyno STATIC with some sweet heel hook beta.

Josh pullin' hard on Tiger Style - V7

Good Job Fellas
Until next time,
-WB

More Photos

Sorry about the lack of photos lately, but, I found my camera! So we will be taking GLORIOUS amounts of pictures. Which is great because I can let the pictures describe the problem instead of huge blocks of text that take hours out of my life.

woo

-WB

We missed this.

Daniel Wood campusing half of the final qualifying problem at Gravity Brawl '09 and then doing the last "Dynamic Move" almost static. Oh well. McKenzie was nice. 

Hmm, those blue lights at the bottom of the wall sure are spiffy, wonder where I could get some....

Anyways here he is, a reminder to all of us of how strong we can be. 

Dayum.