Sure enough, we arrive in the parking lot to see at least 15 people, armed with chalk, shoes and crash pads, making us rethink how secretive the area actually was. A few of the climbers we knew were in the group of square-backed people. We met up with Nyle and his girlfriend, and Murph and Buzz would meet us up at the rocks. (Buzz is turns forty this week, is one of the strongest climbers I know, and is a really good guy).
We arrived at the boulders after an easy approach and yes, its amazing. There is an immediate outcrop of Blocks right when you break into the woods. And so, the sendage began.
After a few warm ups Mark, Ben, Billy Joel and I shifted our focus to Netropolitan - V5, a beautifully aesthetic line with a commiting finish. Mark and Ben both got it, and after many failed tries, I approached the boulder thinking, "I won't get this, so don't film" and of course, I got it. I re-did it later for cameras. We also worked a v5 Dyno, that Mark later did statically with an intermediate.
Next we moved to a new area, here the infamous Steppin' Razor - V10 is located. While the stronger members of our crew worked, and sent, Didactic Tactics and Lactic Tactics - V8 and V10.
My friends and I worked on a route called Captain Bringsyoudown - V5 (Above). Mark did it as his first V5, Ben got to the crux mantle-press top-out and dropped down. Kyle, Billy Joel and I all didn't get it.And so we moved to a V9 with a V6 stand start, Mach 3 and Gillete. Aptly named, both problems involve razor crimps and a dyno finish. Ben got the V6 second go, but the V9 saw no sends. I managed to get to the dyno once, but found myself far short of the jug.
The next area we moved to would be our final. While Mark, Ben, and Kyle worked a O-Town - V5 traverse, Buzz, Jut, a few other guys and myself worked Pussy Willow - V6. While everyone got the finish jug, many of the stronger members worked the V8 top-out. Meanwhile I still was working the technical-feet-yet-powerful-upperbody-problem to the very end. Suddenly, something clicked and I got the problem. A good send for me.
We ended the day on a very aesthetic arete climb which we named Uptown Girl - V3 (Above).
As Ben, Kyle, and mark worked Uptown, I looked left at a series of holds that seemed to stop short 5 feet from the top. After unlocking a key gaston and a dynamic move to the crux top-out, Piano Man - V4 was created. Of course named after Billy Joel, as he was on the top scrubbing clean the dirt and moss. (this did not help, the top-out was hurrendous, but Ben, Buzz and I all sent). I urge you to try Piano Man, if you ever go to triple. Its left and below Sex Bomb on a right facing 15 degree wall. An arrowhead shaped hold is loose so use the jug next to it.
Also, if you do go, please stay on the tractor trail and DO NOT cut through the fields. The farmer who owns the land is very nice to allow access and those fields are his lively-hood so please, use the trail.
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