Spring has Sprung. Sending Done?

Ah, the warm temps of Spring gave us a taste of the Summer today in Great Barrington, Mass. But, with all this heat, the texture must be horrendous, I guess were done with sending for the season... right?

NO!

Despite our complaining that the weather was nice (as in, too nice), we had a great day in... well... GREAT Barrington!

The sends started early, with my crushing of an old project Scary Mantelo - V3. As the pun-tastic name states, this fun problem ends in a commiting, mantel top out. Next, Kyle and I worked another one of our projects, The Crystal Quartz Problem - V4. We both sent, and Crystal Quartz is currently my favorite problem. A few commiting, dynamic moves lead to a not-so-easy top out.

We then moved on up to where the real projects lie, Spac boulder. Two of our groups major projects find there home on this boulder, and we were psyched to find them good-to-go. Ben floated through and flashed his project Green Goddess - V7, and Adam sent too after a little work. Kyle and myself both got our project SPAC - V4, both of these problems are very similar in that they involve static moves on tender-busting crimps.

Adam finishing up Green Goddess - V7

JP settin' dem feet up on SPAC - V4

Now, as Ben would put it, our "Master Plan" to send all the projects today was going very well. That is, until Ben met Fadowah - V9. This dynamic crimp-fest was determined on ruining Ben's Master Plan and ultimatly succeeded, after Fadowah, no more projects saw sends. Ben fell off the second to last finishing jug on Fadowah, and he will never let himself forget that.

While Ben wrestled his pebble, Kyle and Adam were working vigorously on The Platform Problem - V6. This stretched out powerhouse shut both of them down. With a commiting, cruxy, crimping, sloping top out, this problem takes no prisoners.

Finally we headed over to the highballs where three send-hopes of ours denied us, Fen Fen - V7, some V5, and Filter - V9. While those problems gave Ben and Kyle the shut-down. Adam and I scoped out a few (possibly)-undeveloped bouders up past the highballs. We found a few problems on a super-cool block with commiting last moves. We also found an amazing, perfectly 15 degree wall with slotty seams spewn on it. The names we chose for the problems we set need some explaining...

#1 - Do You have a Question? - V2
This one was named due to the last move, where the climber raises his left arm until it is full extention above him, clutching for the finish block. This motion is very reminiscent of raising your hand when you have a question in school.

#2 -When Trees Attack - V3
This one earned its name from the branch of a small sappling near the base of the boulder, which tickles and scratches the necks of those who dare climb its super-fun arete.

#3 - Commitment Issues - V4+
A V1 seam leads to a V2 dynamic move leads to a Vholygod top out. The top out is where this route draws its name.

WELL thats it... Next weekend we are heading to Peterskill in the Gunks. Which should be nice seeing as it has been closed all winter.
And then... Brace yourselves... ADAM, BEN, LUKE, AND I ARE HEADING TO CHATTANOOGA, TENNESSEE!
The campground has wifi and outlets, so I'll be sure to keep you posted on the sends and such.

Good luck on your projects and watch out for ticks (I got one today :[ )
-WB

Goodbye to Gunks

This past Saturady, mild temps brought us back to the gunks. However, with spring closing in, our streak of Carraige Road trips will most likely come to an end. Before that however, we had a nice day down in the Trapps.

We rolled out with Mark, Kyle and his son, Ben, Mark's friend John, and me. Unfortunatly, the area was pretty crowded, with many other groups pulling the winter send-train into the station, but we managed. Infact, we managed well. Ben made excellent progress on Yikes - V9, and sent Meaning of Life - V5 (A long standing project of his). Mark polished off another V5, Rock Lords, and Kyle sent The Black Boulder Problem - V5.

As for me, I worked hard on one of my projects, Meaning of Life. After spending time unlocking the beta, I worked the crux last moves, but found too tired from working the problem earlier. Meaning of life isnt goign anywhere though, and I'm sure I will send it next time.

Next time...

This weekend we are going to Great Barrington, our crew has some projects there and it should be a nice change. Until then,
-WB

Andrews Boulder Problem

No, this didn't happen at Triple. This is an older video I made of me sending Andrews Boulder Problem - V4 in the Gunks. I'll release a video of triple sometime this week.

Triple Right Delivers

Yesterday, a crew consisting of Ben, Kyle, Mark, Billy Joel and myself rolled out to Triple Right in New Paltz. We picked up Billy from his dorm room in SUNY New Paltz, at which point, I moved to the trunk of our mini-van amongst the crash pads. On the way down I insisted on telling everyone that the area was a secret and not to tell anybody about its location.

Sure enough, we arrive in the parking lot to see at least 15 people, armed with chalk, shoes and crash pads, making us rethink how secretive the area actually was. A few of the climbers we knew were in the group of square-backed people. We met up with Nyle and his girlfriend, and Murph and Buzz would meet us up at the rocks. (Buzz is turns forty this week, is one of the strongest climbers I know, and is a really good guy).

We arrived at the boulders after an easy approach and yes, its amazing. There is an immediate outcrop of Blocks right when you break into the woods. And so, the sendage began.

After a few warm ups Mark, Ben, Billy Joel and I shifted our focus to Netropolitan - V5, a beautifully aesthetic line with a commiting finish. Mark and Ben both got it, and after many failed tries, I approached the boulder thinking, "I won't get this, so don't film" and of course, I got it. I re-did it later for cameras. We also worked a v5 Dyno, that Mark later did statically with an intermediate.

Next we moved to a new area, here the infamous Steppin' Razor - V10 is located. While the stronger members of our crew worked, and sent, Didactic Tactics and Lactic Tactics - V8 and V10.

My friends and I worked on a route called Captain Bringsyoudown - V5 (Above). Mark did it as his first V5, Ben got to the crux mantle-press top-out and dropped down. Kyle, Billy Joel and I all didn't get it.

And so we moved to a V9 with a V6 stand start, Mach 3 and Gillete. Aptly named, both problems involve razor crimps and a dyno finish. Ben got the V6 second go, but the V9 saw no sends. I managed to get to the dyno once, but found myself far short of the jug.

The next area we moved to would be our final. While Mark, Ben, and Kyle worked a O-Town - V5 traverse, Buzz, Jut, a few other guys and myself worked Pussy Willow - V6. While everyone got the finish jug, many of the stronger members worked the V8 top-out. Meanwhile I still was working the technical-feet-yet-powerful-upperbody-problem to the very end. Suddenly, something clicked and I got the problem. A good send for me.

We ended the day on a very aesthetic arete climb which we named Uptown Girl - V3 (Above).

As Ben, Kyle, and mark worked Uptown, I looked left at a series of holds that seemed to stop short 5 feet from the top. After unlocking a key gaston and a dynamic move to the crux top-out, Piano Man - V4 was created. Of course named after Billy Joel, as he was on the top scrubbing clean the dirt and moss. (this did not help, the top-out was hurrendous, but Ben, Buzz and I all sent). I urge you to try Piano Man, if you ever go to triple. Its left and below Sex Bomb on a right facing 15 degree wall. An arrowhead shaped hold is loose so use the jug next to it.

Also, if you do go, please stay on the tractor trail and DO NOT cut through the fields. The farmer who owns the land is very nice to allow access and those fields are his lively-hood so please, use the trail.

Update On This Weekend.

Okay, so, change of plans. Instead of rolling out to single right, we are taking two more turns and going to Triple Right. It should be a sweet Saturday full of sick sends and sun (That alliteration was powerful). Triple is a bit more secretive, as in, I could tell you about it, but then I would have to kill you. However, I am aware of many a good climb and many a hard project down there. It will be sick for sure. Also, I need to add "one" more person to the list of people I havent introduced that are going with us. One is in quotations because there will be many more, but for now, there is just one.

MURPH - Kenneth Murphy is another mo-strong member of our climbing crew. He is great friends with Nyle and knows triple right pretty well. He is a very strong climber and a good guy. Recently, he sent his long-term proj, Chaotic Stability - V10, a nice high-ball in the Gunks.

Upcoming Weekend, Thoughts on March.

So, this weekend we decided to stray away from our usual winter spot, carriage road in the Gunks, and head for a new area. Unfortunatly, spooky is taking the next two weeks off, and will not be joining us. We, as in, Ben, Sam, Mark, Luke and I, will be making our way to Single Right in the Gunks. I do not know much about the place, but luckily we have a few people going who have been there before. Lets introduce them.

Billy Joel - Yes, thats his name. No, its not some funny climbing nickname. His first name is William and his last name is Joel. He has been to single right and is a pretty strong climber.

Nyle AKA Iceman - One of the strongest climbers I know. Not only has Nyle been to Single Right, but he has also been to the secretive Triple Right. He has sent some hard stuff (Venus in Scorpio - v12). And he might be heading out with us to Single. So... Sweet!

OH RIGHT ITS MARCH!
Well, I dont like March. If its your birthday in March, like my father and step brother, then i hate everyday of March EXCEPT for that one. Why? Many a reason. Its like this.
Around March I am sick of winter. And then that one day comes in march were its 65 and sunny and its like YES!!!! but, the next day, it snows. But its not snow. Its slush. And this produces my least favorite part of March. The mud. Also I would like to point out that, in march, with the heat, us climbers lose precious texture, and not to mention the muddy wetness that seaps into our pads and favorite climbs. Not to mention there are NO SCHOOL VACATIONS IN MARCH. So yes. that is why i do not like the month of march.

Blogs up! - General Info

Hey everyone that happens to be viewing this blog!
Let me fill you in on what and who is blog is about.
As the name states. This blog is about my group of friends and me. Specifically, this blog is a journal of the weekends I share with my friends, bouldering in upstate New York. Since the fall of '08, we have been outside rackin' up the sends and getting stronger. We also have become very good friends and have had many stories spawn from these weekend sessions. This is a blog of those sends, stories and good times whilst weekend bouldering.

WHO WE ARE?

My name is JP. I am the main writer of the blog.
This is me on Meaning of Life - V5 on Carraige Path in the Gunks, NY.

This is my climbing coach Adam, but he is known fondly as Spook.
Hes a very strong climber, especially with his technique and recently sent his first V8
Here is Spook on Cream Cheese - V6 in Near Trapps at the Gunks, NY

This here is my good friend, Ben.
The strongest climber in our group, Ben is currently working to send Yikes, V9.
Here, he is throwing the heel hook of all heel hooks on The Bhudda - V7 on Carraige Path in the Gunks, NY
Should be in a La Sportiva Ad.
Luke, a very strong climber in our group.
A very good friend of mine and the source of most of our climbing ridiculousness.
Here he is in Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs, CO.
A bit far from the woods of upstate NY.

There are a few other members of our group without rad pictures to describe their awesomeness.

Kyle - Kyle is probably the strongest in terms of... well... strength in our group. However, he is also a VERY good climber and recently sent his first V5! (Rock Lords in the Gunks). The best motivator I know, many members of our group would not have sent different problems without him yelling, "YOU GOT IT!!!", plus the security of a two very strong hands at your spot helps too. Thanks Kyle.

Sam - Sam is new to the wonderful world of outdoor bouldering, with his first adventure being last saturday. However, after his first ever top-out, everyone could tell he was hooked. He also sent a V2 that same day, not bad for a first timer. We are hope to see more of him outside.

OTHER STUFF:
Home Gym: Electric City Rock Gym in Schenectady, NY.
Places weve been: Trapps, Near Trapps, Great Barrington, Nine Corner Lake,
Blackjack Boulders, Sattelite Boulders, Millenium Boulder,
Joshua Tree National Park.
Other Things You Need To See: Shilohs Edge Climbing Team
Golden Crimp Productions
Contact Info: Footofstate@Gmail.com