Wednesday, October 28, 2009

WB Climbing Forecast - 10/28/09

BOO!


Well folks,
I've been waiting this one out, but since the weather status shows no signs of changing...


WHERE ARE WE GOING:
Carraige Road, Gunks
-OR-
Central Rock ABS Comp

WEATHER FORECAST:
Rain, rain, and yes, even more rain. It seems all over the country the wetness is ruining prime
Roctober time. Hell, I even saw someone's facebook status said "rain in the desert? I though that wasn't supposed to happen." Although wunderground.com calls for a few nice days before the weekend, saturday has 30-50% chance of rain all day.

SHOULD WE CLIMB:
No, no, no, ten times over, no. If the forecast changes and is only calling for rain in the morning, and wind, and sun in the afternoon then MAYBE we could climb... maybe. I doubt that will happen, so in the meantime plan for a trip out to Central Rock in Western Mass for some kick-ass halloween sends.

OTHER NEWS:
The home wall is going well, Adam hurt his back (but recovered), I finally mastered the delicate art of starting my DYNAFLEX POWERBALL!!! and life without a gym is moving slower than ever.

Halloween is coming up and I was wondering what are all ya'll plans for the big night?
-WB

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Filter

Dead Point Mag's got nothing on us.

Michael on Filter - V9

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

WB Climbing Forecast - 10/21/09

Well, I'm not climbing this weekend.
Two weeks of no outdoor climbing?
And in FALL?
That's just lame.


But, the home wall is nice and cozy, and the new holds have already produced some pretty hard problems...

Not having a gym sucks though.

-WB

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Lack of Forecast

We're probably not climbing this weekend, therefor the forecast is no climbing. Sorry.

JP-CITY IS OPEN THOUGH
we gots dem new holds.


Check it


Check it


Check it


BIG UP FOR SAVINGS.


Word up, you know the flavor.
-WB

Sunday, October 11, 2009

I *heart* G.B.

Speed Boulder, Great Barrington.
Michael Penn on Roses and Bluejays - V13

G.B. never ceases to amaze me, from hundreds of quality problems in an amazing setting (with more potential, both in routes and problems) to somehow drying up completely in a few hours.

After a night of rain that ended at around 3:30AM Saturday totaling 0.5 inches of rain, G.B. was of course soaked when we arrived at around 10:30. After scouting around a bit, we found that the Shade Boulder was dry and began warming up.

A cool shot of JP on Shade - V5

I took a couple laps on shade, as did ben, and Michael/Adam/Sandra worked on sending the fun little V5. After a lot of frustration, Michael and the rest of us began working the SUPER BURLY HARD SIT DOWN START. We worked on beta, and we found some that may work, problem is there is a rock that your heel constantly dabs on. No, I'm not promoting the disturbance of nature, but I'm just saying that if someone accidently dropped a hammer on a crow bar in a crack on the rock and then fell on the crowbar so that it dislodged the piece you dab on, I wouldn't complain.

Check da pics:

The really hard sitdown start crux.

After some good progress we decided to check on the dryness of things. We moved up to my project Snooze Button - V5. Its highball, crimping awesomness. Ben meanwhile was working the Sitdown to Fotowah - V11. We both made progress, and Adam gave his first goes at Snooze.

JP entering the airy section of Snooze Button - V5

Next, Ben, Michael and Sandra headed over to the Speed Boulder. Adam and I stayed back to catch some footy of Bromance - V5 and for Adam to try and send the awesome problem. Although Adam gave some serious effort, and nearly kicked me in the face a dozen times, the problem remains unrepeated!

CHECK OUT THE VIDEO HERE

Then came the AMAZING Speed Boulder. This incredible boulder showcases a beautiful, overhanging, featured front wall, split by tons of cracks that produce awesome crimps and ledges to stab your fingers into.
The last move dyno on Roses and Bluejays - V13

The climbing on this face is hard, infact, some of the hardest in the Northeast. On this one wall there are problems from V8 to V13 (with a really hard project). Michael was working the signature route of the boulder, Roses and Bluejays - V13, while Ben started trying Something from Nothing - V11. Sandra worked an Unknown Problem on the right side of the boulder (probably like V3?) for a while, until Adam and I showed up and moved up on the hill to the funky Heel Hook Problem - V4.

Ben working Something from Nothing - V11

Michael working Roses and Bluejays - V13

Ben made seriously good progress for a problem that was shutting him down on his first goes, Michael almost held the last move dyno of Roses, and I sent the Heel Hook Problem.

As the day continued, Adam and I spotted a cool looking arete on a small cliff band behind the Heel Hook Problem, Adam flashed it and I got it third go. Really fun, probably V3, last move crux.

There wasn't a hint of moisture and the skies were blue at the end of the day in Great Barrington. A day that could have been disastrous turned out pretty good.

-WB

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

WB Climbing Forecast #1 - 10/7/09

WHERE ARE WE GOING?:
Great Barrington Saturday, Gunks possibly Monday.

WEATHER FORECAST:
Rain all day friday till VERY early on Saturday (2AM).
Winds supposed to pick up all day Saturday reaching a high of 13 MPH.
Temperatures are staying relative low all day (50-60), and by 2PM it's supposed to be clear.
Sunday would be better, but rides are an issue on Sunday.

Check it.

EDIT:
there is hope!
CHECK IT.

SHOULD WE CLIMB?:
G.B. has a reputation for being okay to climb when it rains, but it depends on how much rain the area receives on Friday. The high winds and sun will help the drying process, depending on how early rain stops. I would say if there is a low amount of precipitation, and it ends before 5AM Saturday, G.B. would be great to climb in.
Sunday would be better, but I think Saturday would be a good climbing day.

CONCLUSION:
IF the stars align I'll give G.B. a 75% chance of AWESOME climbing Saturday and 90% chance on Sunday.

If you wanna join us, contact me (JP Whitehead) on Facebook, in the comments or through my email: weekendbouldering@gmail.com

OTHER NEWS:
BEN IS CRUSHING!!!! He's sent Jackson Pollock - V8, Dragon Turns - V9 and New Pair of Glasses - V7. Wow.

Also, I'll be posting the WB Climbing Forecast every Wednesday including where were climbing this upcoming weekend, weather info, news and any new climbing photos.

ORGANIZATION BISHES
-WB

Monday, October 5, 2009

JP-City Opening Week

Problem: Your home gym closed this year, and after a summer full of climbing outside, you find yourself going slowly crazy from climbing withdrawal. You would do anything to go climbing, but alas, how are you going to get your fix?!

Solution: Build a home wall.

Example: JP-City Rock Gym

Oh hell yes, after weeks of my only excitement coming from clicking the "SEND" button on my email, (I consistantly say SEEEENNNNDDD! to myself when I press it), I have successfully made a sick climbing wall in my garage. Check the pics yo.



Details: Basically if you have any holds that you don't need I will gladly take them. In turn, you'll receive a lifetime membership to my home wall. Yeah, can't beat that deal.

If you wanna come climb, call me up or send me some email at weekendbouldering@gmail.com

I'm always game for some sending.

If any of you know me from E-City, you know I was on top of the setting in the bouldering room. I also happen to be on top of the setting at JP City Rock Gym, so come climb and help celebrate the opening week of JP CITY ROCK GYM!!!!! YEAAAAHH!!!
-WB
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