Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Busy Busy Busy Busy

Busy Busy Busy Busy.

As the summer came to a close, I began mentally preparing myself for the hardships Junior year was sure to bring me.

But I could never prepare myself for the unthinkable.

Let's see if you can sympathize. I wake up Saturday and open my window to perfect overcast skies, 60-70 degree weather (perfect flannel weather), the air is dry and there is a slight breeze.

And I am not on a rock.

Why aren't I on a rock?

1. I don't have a license.
2. I am busier than I have ever been.
3. None of the excuses seem good enough for me.

I don't want to talk about it.
-WB

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

The Fall's Coming

Look guys, I'm sorry the blog posts have been few and far between these past few months, but with so much constant climbing, it can be hard for a little blogger like me to keep up with it all.

However, with Summer winding down and Sendtember right around the corner, I'm excited to start supplying you with content at least once every two weeks.

Truth be-told, it's been strange for me to consider updating a blog entitled "Weekend Bouldering", when I'm finding myself drawn away from the pebbles and towards the cliffs, rope and quickdraws in hand.

Don't get me wrong, I love bouldering and it will always have a place in my heart. Lately, however, bouldering has left something to be desired. Something that can only be found 60 feet up, bouldering above your bolt.

You'll notice I used the word "bouldering" to describe my experiences in sport climbing. At this point, I don't think I could completely focus on one discipline or the other. While sport climbing gives me the sustained movement and feeling of "getting somewhere", bouldering helps me hone in on the short bursts of power I need to help excel at sport. I don't boulder as practice for sport, and I don't sport climb as practice for bouldering.

All of my climbing is practice for harder and better climbing.

While, I will admit, I'm still not completely comfortable above my bolt (likely my biggest downfall... pun intended) and I struggle heavily on the route-y sections of climbs, with many holds and not a lot of beta, I'm learning, growing, and becoming a more well-rounded climber because of it.

For those of you who have read all this, I'll reward you with a slew of pictures.

For those who haven't... you get to see them anyway...


RUMNEY:
Michael, Murph and I spent a weekend at Rumney, I sent my first 5.12 (Social Outcast) and we had a grand ol' time.


Me on my next project, Techno Surfing - 5.12b

Michael working Livin' Astro - 5.14c



Waimea - 5.10d

Michael styling up Big Kahuna - 5.13a

Murph on Suburban - 5.13a

Me sending Social Outcast - 5.12a

Unpsyched

SMUGGLER'S NOTCH:
The following weekend, Adam, Izzy, Evan, Morgan and I hauled up to Smuggler's Notch to climb on the beautiful blue-schist boulders that line the steep Green Mountain pass. The road's were tight, the boulders were large and the lines were fun.

Adam working on Backwards Reflector - V5



Adam with a game-face on Nemesis - V5

Me on the frustrating Impossible Problem - V8/9

Evan's fingers.

The throw off of tiny crimps on Impossible Problem.


Adam finishing Primate 2000 - V3

Evan nearly sending Impossible Sit - V11/12

Monday, August 2, 2010

Rumney Overview

Oh, the powerful truth inscribed on that shirt.

There was quite the party at Rumney this weekend. Despite not having sport climbed in a year and succumbing to a crippling pump several times during our visit, I managed to climb a lot of great routes in the 5.10-12 range and found a creature dwelling quietly inside of me... I really enjoy sport climbing.


I'll do a huge post with photos and such later. Now, it's time to rest and come up with a new name for the blog... I may not exclusively be a weekend boulderer anymore.

-JP

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Beach Bouldering Video

Nick, from Eastern Climber is putting together a kick-ass video of our beach bouldering trip. Also, I have added his blog to the blogroll, he's got an incredible website with posts on areas, reviews, commentary on climbing and more! Be sure to check it out.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Beach Bouldering in the Northeast

Yes, you read that title correctly.

This past weekend, Nick, two new friends Amanda and Kevin and I set forth on an epic journey to the North Shore of Long Island. Our minds were filled with whimsical stories of incredible granite boulders that litter the coastline of East Marion... but I had my suspicions. Surely, such a place couldn't exist in New York!

We arrived at the Wildwood State Park campsite late on Friday and were greated by 7001 degrees Celsius heat and a 500% humidity. Every ten minutes or so a group of drunken men with a lantern who's brightness rivaled the sun would shout "YEAAAH!". And just to make sure we didn't sleep, an angry Chinese woman banged on our tent at around 3 in the morning, yelling in Chinese. We awoke at 5 to the sound of ducks quacking.

But us boulderer's are resilient, and after some chocolate chip pancakes and coffee, we were on our way.

Before we knew it, we were walking down the many steps, a landscape of winding coastline and... no, it couldn't be! boulders? Our paces sped up as we passed boulders that seemed to grow bigger and bigger until in the distance we saw it, a house sized, orange, granite boulder placed 10 feet from the water.


We began goes on a very fun V4 that centers around one dynamic move to a jug. After taking it down, we tried the low-start into the V4 that goes at V7. We worked out some beta and after several goes I pieced it together and sent! Probably my fasted sending of a V7 to date.


There is a certain laid back quality to beach bouldering... dips in the ocean between goes... girls in bikinis strolling by... and despite the hot Summer sun, the rock stayed full of friction!


Nick began working on his project from his last visit, an interesting traverse which we could not decide the grade on. He pieced it together slowly, and eventually took it down! I got to play around with my 50 mm lens on this one, and I'm very happy with the results.



We played around on a few more climbs, our bud Kevin took down a technical V6, our other friend Pat played around on a ridiculously crimp tall man project (probably like V10) and we explored the beach and found some great new lines on the most beautiful boulder I have ever seen.



After a night touring the streets of beautiful Port Jefferson, and observing the stunning sunset, we returned to the campsite and, against all odds, slept well with a day of sun, surf and bouldering pulsing through our systems.

The next day, we climbed on a different boulder and put up three new lines at V2, V2 and Vsomethinghigherthan4. I got close on the V6 traverse, but greased off the top-out, twice. We spent the last few hours bullshitting and taking pictures.



It was quite the adventure.

-WB

Monday, July 12, 2010

List of Problems at Gnarnia

The Wardrobe
  • Prince Caspian Left - Project - V7/8?
  • Prince Caspian Right - V2*
  • Flesh Failures - V6*
  • Crimp Line - Project - V8/9?
  • The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe - V6***
  • The Wardrobe - V3***
Treeboob
  • P.U.S. - V3
  • Sleepyhead Stand - Project - V7/8?
  • Sleepyhead Sit - Project - V9/10?
  • Stuff of Dreams - V4****
  • Vanilla Slice into Stuff of Dreams - Project
  • Vanilla Slice - V6**
  • Chilled Soup - V5***
Shark Fin
  • Shark Fin - V5*
The Room
  • The Room - V7****
Lightning Block
  • Lightning Block - V0*
  • Double Dog - V0
Pennyroyal
  • Pennyroyal - V0
  • Lip Traverse - Project
  • Elephant Skin - V4*
Gnarwhal
  • Unicorn of the Sea - V9****
  • Unicorn of the Sea Super Stand - V5****
  • Unicorn of the Sea Sit - Project - V11/12?
  • Twisted Tooth - V2****
Chocolate Chip
  • Benjamin Franklin - V1*
  • Tollhouse - V3**
  • Cookie Dough - V2*
  • Ghetto Chip Malfunction - Project - V6?
Obvious Undeveloped Boulders:
  • Impact Boulder (in the gully left of treeboob)
  • Jungle Boulder (below impact)
This list is ongoing and will be updated as more problems get done. There's still a boatload of problems, hard and easy, to clean and climb! So get up to gnarnia and nab some quality FA's

Sunday, July 11, 2010

You will be mine...

... in one to two business days.


Words can't describe my excitement to start taking pictures with this wonderful little device.

Oh fedex ground, you're cheap (kinda), but I am impatient, and you are slow...

-WB

P.S. I think I'll do more of these little posts, they are quick, easy and low-fat for those looking to read lighter... of course, I will throw in a large post every now and again, but with this camera you should be expecting MOSTLY pictures.
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