Weekend Bouldering Blog

Great Barrington Raw Footy

2012-02-07T19:58:00.000-05:00

baby i like it raw

Goofing In Great Barrington from Luke Mosca on Vimeo.

Big Up to Lucas for filming something and actually editing it.

*cough* *cough* south video *cough*

-WB

Life and Climbing the Past Few Months

2012-02-03T12:06:00.002-05:00

So here we are again. Last October, I promised more frequent updates and honestly, I had every intention to deliver. But I didn't, and I'm sorry. It seems my psyche for sitting down and pounding out a post has dwindled away. That being said, I also feel that if I put my mind to it, a resurgence is more than possible.

As for climbing, this Winter has been kind to us. Not only do we have stellar temps and conditions, with perpetual Fall-like weather, but we have also been blessed with a sick hella dope fresh gym to train at when that weather turns for the worse. A combination of these things and some recent developments in my personal life have resulted in a very happy me. And that's why I'm here. Talking to you guys. Again.

But why are you here? What do you want me to talk about?

I suppose I should begin with the recent ventures of Upstate New York Bouldering. Over the past month or so, I've spent nearly every weekend in Great Barrington, primarily at the speed boulder. Evan has been diligently attempting Roses and Blue Jayes - V13, and the results are promising. Personally, I've turned my efforts to old projects, even sending a few of them! One problem in particular, Big Big Love - V8, felt incredible to send because of how difficult it felt for me just a few weeks earlier.

Honestly, I'm not as stoked on the spray as I used to be. My life lately has taken many an unexpected turn, and I find myself viewing climbing in a completely different light. I see the true value in the action, but more often I find myself thinking about the incredible relationships I've made with people who share no other mutual interest with me. While it feels good to progress, climb stronger and send harder routes and boulders, that feeling pales in comparison to the sensation that comes along with the good times spent with good people climbing.

As for the future, its hard to say. I'd like to promise posts more consistently, but I'm afraid such a pact would be no less empty than they have been in the past. I will say that this blog has provided me an excellent service by allowing me to track and record my physical and emotional progress as a person and rock climber, and it would feel wrong to stop now.

Below, I've added a picture dump to sate your media starved eyes. Although the showcase is quite clearly Great Barrington, pictures from Lost City as well as some of my personal photography appear as well.

the first in a series of diptychs i made for my photo class

the classic narrative

Jaysen Henderson on a classic V1 at Lost City

pinto and i sharing a moment

Evan entering the cruxy slot-crimps of Roses and Blue Jayes - V13

Evan keeping warm by looking like an idiot

Ben sippin on dat haterade, Izzy izznt feelin it

Pinto philosophizing

Evan bein a QT

dat chalk

dem shoes w/ dem colors

Ben

lord of the jet boil

bill on the intro moves of Big Big Love - V7

Evan stickin the crux move on Something From Nothing - V11

again.

Enjoy the incredible temps and keep crushing! I'm not dead yet and I know you're not either, so get out there and tell me about your travels.

As the hitchhiker I picked up on the way to Great Barrington said as he departed my car, "ONWARD!"

-WB

Guys...

2011-10-24T22:29:00.006-04:00

I know its been a while... but these past few months have been real tough. It seems I'm still adjusting to work on the weekends and school throughout the week, and its been hard for me to find time to climb midst it all. But guys, that all changes today.

Today, I found out about how radical The EDGE up in halfmoon is. The new gym is in the final stages of construction, with a tentative opening date of Nov. 14th, and I for one could not be more stoked.

Just walking through the building, seeing the walls and that one crazy-ass boulder sent chills down my spine, and the thought of being able to set with seemingly endless holds, creating limitless sequences and problems and routes... I was nearly certain my head would explode.

I'm gonna make a few trips back to that wonderful place a few times this week, with a comprehensive post on the new routes, the people setting them, and the gym itself! STOKED ON IT!!!!!!

For now, here's some media on the whole project:

Facebook Page & Photos

Walkthrough

Southern Adirondack Climbing's Post

I don't know about you guys, but I'm on the EDGE right now.

Hopefully some real rocks will also make their way into my life soon aswell!

-WB

Summertimes.

2011-07-17T14:49:00.001-04:00

I know these days posts are scarce, and I apologize for that. The past few weeks of summer have succeeded in completely deminishing my will to do anything productive ever, and unfortunately posting on this blog happens to fall into that category of things I really should probably do, but end up forgetting about due to a plethora of distractions like Netflix, Tumblr and Sour Cream & Onion Chips.

On a real note though, as Biggie once said, things done changed! I have a job now and a license, two very dangerous things to have as a restless teenager. On days when I don't have work, but the rest of the climbing world seems to, I escape alone into the Adirondacks, not only to scour the woods for some magical hidden boulderfield of dreams, but also for another alterior motive, a certain quality within me that I discovered on my first outing. The rolling ocean of pine-covered mountains that makes up the park makes me realize how little of this world I have seen. And walking alone on some trail next to nature just feels right. Something in me really wants to get to know everything about this part of the state.

So far, as far as bouldering goes, these excursions have yielded few results. I found two massive boulders on the hike up to Peaked Mountain (Siamese Ponds Wilderness) but the rock was chossy in spots and lacked featured in crucial areas. Most of the hikes I went on I would discover huge fields full of Smartcar sized boulders. Nobody really likes Smartcars, and to a boulderer, these are the worst kind of rocks. They taunt you and convince you that somewhere there's got to be one big enough to climb, but there rarely is.

Despite all this ranting about the Adirondacks and my Summer and such, I have actually been climbing. I've spent a great deal of time at Hogwarts, bonding with the Borg and regaining strength lost in the spring. Additionaly, Ben and I made trips out to Nine Corners and even McKenzie Pond. Rather than summarize every single trip, I'll sate your media hungry eyes with a photodump! Enjoy and keep reading! I may be lazy, but I haven't forgotten about this blog.

Lake Sacandaga from the Summit of Hadley Mountain

Trail Marker on the way up Severance Hill

Ben trying hard on Shut Up Machine - V9 at McKenzie
Poor conditions made this climb a no go!

Ben cutting loose on Cartwheel - V9 at McKenzie

Ben on another go of Cartwheel.

Me trying hard to reach that sloper on Cartwheel.

Ben on the super-incredible intro moves of Flux Capacitor - V8, McKenzie

Me trying the crux move on Flux.

A stellar shot of the Borg on Flux.

Izzy trying the top-out of her super thin project at Hogwarts, red-tagged fellas, sorry!

The Borg in the flesh setting up for the throw on Squibs SDS - V6

A few final thoughts before I dissappear once again for a few weeks...

I'd like to acknowledge Jut and his efforts on Southern Adirondack Climber, it's people and blogs like that that keep the whole community stoked. Not to mention he has more than outdone me in the posting department. Kid is posting like every fifteen god damn minutes! Good on ya!
I'd also like to acknowledge Kyle and his comments. I really do appreciate all of the comments you guys post and always read all of them, but Kyle's comments have a certain level of urgent-ridiculousness that actually has a significant effect on how much I post, so good work.
I'm looking for someone to hike/camp/climb/explore with in the high peaks region for one weekend in August. If anyone has any interest please, hit me up, I have a new phone number that I can get you if you email me or contact me some other way (facebook, telegraph, a formal letter).

- WB

FOUR from Hogwarts

2011-06-01T21:49:00.006-04:00

The first video is of the following problems:

The Goblet of Fire - V7 (FA)
The Seeker - V6
The Sorcerer's Stone - V9 (FA)

iMovie messed up the quality a lot (and was an overall nightmare to work with) but fear not! Soon, my friends, quality footage will run free throughout this blog.

The second is a FULL QUALITY (1080p DESTINY) video of Murph on the FA of Snitch - V8.

In other news, I take my road test on FRIDAY.

Free at last! Free at last!

-WB

The Dark Lord has Returned! Hogwarts is No Longer Safe!

2011-05-28T01:36:00.005-04:00

He-who-shall-not-be-named topping out a new, incredible V7.

News from the Pottersville spot is grim this week. Several verified reports have confirmed that he-who-shall-not-be-named has returned to Hogwarts! Yes, the Dark Lord himself arrived in the forest last Sunday, taking with him on his visit the elusive and prized Sorcerers Stone Project. As well as the Golden Snitch and a few other problems that had remained uncleaned and unclimbed until his evil brushes and chalk met their sculpted holds.

Eyewitnesses captured pictures and videos of this horrible event. Despite his return, Dumbledore refuses to cancel classes for this year, stating that there are still several gems to be picked from the mess of boulders... and perhaps some incredible destiny hidden deep in that forest... only time will tell.

The List of Problems at Hogwarts so far is as follows:
*bold problems are of particular quality

Hagrid - V2
Delicate moves up a dirty, mossy slab. Fun, but needs a bit more cleaning.

The Deathly Hallows - V7
SDS just right of Goblet on a left hand sidepull and right hand sloping edge, move up through sculpted crimps and slopers to a top-out directly above.

The Goblet of Fire - V7
SDS left of Hallows, just around the corner from Sorcerer's Stone. Dynamic moves straight up through perfect, textured slopers lead to an amazing finish directly above and left.

The Sorcerer's Stone - V9
Stand start at patina jug on the obvious, tallest face of the boulder. Move right and straight up through sidepulls and crimps. Burly!

Sorting Hat - V3
A fun, delicate arete behind Sorcerer's Stone.

Degnoming - V4

Dirty Thirty - V8

Truffle Shuffle - V5
SDS with right hand on the right sloping arete and left hand on sidepulls on the face. Quality.

Squibs - V3
A great warm-up. Stand start at obvious jug at about head height. Move directly up and left to a sick mantle press top-out.

Squibs Low - V6
Squat down in the roof under Squibs with hands in the jug slot and a thin undercling. Utilizing a key heel, make powerful moves out the roof and finish as Squibs.

The Golden Snitch - V8
Crimpy! SDS with hands on right-rising crimp seem. The flake is on for feet. Lock off moves through crimps lead to a delicate top-out.

The Seeker - V5/6
Starting with right hand on a thin pinch below the obvious large pinch, and right hand on the large sidepull, work your way directly up.

Nimbus 2000 - V6/7
SDS at right rising crimp seem. Thin moves up the right side of The Seeker follow.

Dementor - V6
SDS with hands on shallow crimps, move left towards the obvious rail and up to the infamous smile. Utilize the arete to reach the top.

The Dark Lord using some black magic to de-moss some rocks.

Sussing out beta on Sorcerer's Stone - V9

Ben Horgen tries to steal the Sorcerer's Stone

The Dark Lord and his evil grin show NO MERCY

On the FA of Sorcerer's Stone

The Dark Lord chillin' with his friend the Dementor - V6

The life-sucking crimps of the Dementor

Will his reign ever end!? Will he leave any boulders for the rest of us!? Will this Hogwarts joke thing ever stop being funny!? WHO KNOWS!!!!!!

Video by the end of this weekend featuring Murph on The Goblet of Fire, The Seeker, The Golden Snitch, and Sorcerer's Stone.

-WB

Hogwarts

2011-05-05T08:45:00.000-04:00

After a three week absence from climbing due to awful, awful weather conditions and other reasons outside my control, I finally took another trip to Hogwarts with Adam. I had taken a trip up there a few weeks back, but feet of snow remained in the woods, and we left with nothing to show besides frozen toes and shoes soaked for days.This time, after weeks of rain and warm weather, I knew conditions would be different.

With leaves beginning to show on the trees, and no snow cover at all, the whole area had a different feel. The feel always associated with a boulderfield that has been largely untouched. We quickly found interest in one of the first boulders you approach upon entering Hogwarts. The face is lightly overhung, with strange, patina features and flakes. The sequence is hard. Really hard. And we're not quite sure how it goes yet.

Right now, it seems like a poor heel hook right off of the jug start, strenuous bump moves with the right hand, and a left fall into an incut crack. The top-out is slopey, and the problem will be incredibly classic.

Wanting to not get stuck at one problem, we moved towards another boulder, only to find that the sloped top made it terribly difficult to clean. After disappointment at that rock, we moved towards a face that had caught our eye on our first visit. Crimpy sidepulls and pinches up a lightly overhung, pinkish rock make for an incredibly aesthetic problem. We quickly cleaned off the top, then began trying the moves from the bottom.

The crux for me is the first move. A balancey, thrutchy bump from a poor, poor right hand crimp/pinch (crinch? pimp?) and a left hand incut sidepull. For Adam, the crux revolved around a second thrutchy right hand bump move to another positive crimp sidepull higher up. I almost sent once, but couldn't find the right feet to get to the top.

After destroying ourselves on go after go, we got a little visit from the landowner's son and his friends. They were totally friendly and perfectly fine with us climbing there, the kid mentioned that he had done his fair share of climbing by the cliff as well.

We were too tired to send the problem, but it will definitely go on our next visit.

Overall, I was dissappointed with the spot. Everything there feels hard, and the stuff that isn't has not been very good. There are just less problems than originally thought. I would prefer Gnarnia to Hogwarts.

I'm working on a post about the best "Adirondack Projects" but need some help. Any ideas on the best projects in the dacks?

Pictures later from Hogwarts.

-WB

Adirondack Lowdown - Part 1: Snowy Mountain Boulders

2011-04-01T08:34:00.009-04:00

A few years back, when my friends and I were just beginning to dabble in the strange world of Adirondack Bouldering, we had heard rumors of a place of particular mystique. Talk of massive boulders, wonderland-esque features and one, game-changing word: huecos. Surely, such a place could not exist anywhere near us. But the topos in Adirondack ROCK told us otherwise, and soon we jetted out towards Snowy Mountain, unsure of what we would find.

The first thing one is struck by when approaching the boulders is the scale of Snowy Mountain. It is massive. From Rt. 30, you can make out the summit cliff and slide, and as a rock climber that kind of stuff just gets you antsy.

In the woods, a small boulderfield of 6 or 7 rocks makes up the majority of the climbing, but those few boulders pack a plethora of quality problems. The starting place for most newcomers is the Coitus Boulder, and rightfully so. Here, you can find one of the most classic V6's in the Adirondacks, Coitus - V6. Picture perfect technical moves through crimps and huecos and an exciting finish, it's hard to resist this aesthetic line.

Other problems of note include IHOPP - V7 and Never Been to Hueco - V7. These problems alone make Snowy Mountain a destination for any moderate climber, but one boulder in particular sets the area apart from everywhere else... the Cave Boulder.

Words fail to describe the strangeness of this block. It's almost like stepping inside the hollow inside of a boulder and climbing out the cracked shell that remains. The features require a certain form of climbing you won't find elsewhere, and most problems end in an exciting mantle-press top out.

Although small, Snowy Mountain offers a delightful break from hard Adirondack Gneiss, and allow the Northeast climber to play around on huecos, something every climber dreams of. Although my friends and I feel we have climbed out most of Snowy Mountain, there are a few elusive problems that I'd like to return to, and something tells me there are more boulders hidden on that hillside.

LOWDOWN

Name: Snowy Mountain Boulders

Location: Snowy Mountain, Indian Lake, NY

Trailhead: Off of Route 30, see Adirondack ROCK for specifics

Climbing Seasons: Late Spring through Early Fall

Rock Type: Softer, small-grain gneiss

Features: Sandy hueco pockets, fins, crimps and sloping top-outs

Climb Difficulty: Moderate-Hard, (V5-8)

Best Climbs: Cat in the Hat - V2, Coitus - V6, Insomnia - V6, IHOPP - V7, Never Been to Hueco - V7, The Cure - V8, Never Left Hueco - V8

This storm has left the Northeast looking pretty damp, but there is a little hope for climbing this weekend. If anyone would like to join, and has a car, and is psyched on either Lost City, Pottersville or anywhere else, you know what to do. (Leave a comment...)

Also, any ideas for the next ADK Lowdown post?

-WB

The Dawning of the Age of Awesome

2011-03-27T21:45:00.002-04:00

The nice thing about continuing a blog for so long is the ability it gives me to go back and read old posts from years past. It's a very nostalgic feeling and it's incredible to see how my friends and I have progressed and just how much we really like this strange habit we fell into. Periodically, I like to go back and look at some old posts, read what I said, how psyched I was, etc, etc. But this last time, I realized that maybe I wasn't putting the same effort into the blog as I used to.

The PPM (posts per month) was on a steady decline, and I knew it.

There was a feeling that people weren't reading it anyway, and there was no point in writing it. However, if I let the fact that nobody gives a shit keep me from doing anything, I certainly picked the wrong sport to get involved with. The simple fact is that nobody really does give a shit about climbing, and nobody should, similarly nobody gives a shit about blogging. Climbing is a personal thing, just like this blog, and I'm finally coming to see the value of this diary-esque chronicle.

The epic saga of Weekend Bouldering is far from over.

With the recent snowmelt, my psyche is back, and I even feel stronger. My mental game has made a complete recovery, and with recent visits to Lost City (post on that later) and other Gunks areas, I really can't wait for warmer weather. Dacks season. Oh sweet jesus yes.

So, to bring in the new era of re-awesomed WB, I'm starting a series of posts on my favorite areas, and the lowdown on all of them. AND to get you all psyched like me, I'm starting with areas in the Adirondacks.

Which ADK Bouldering spot do you guys want me to cover first? Comment. It's easy. I'll respect you more if you do it. All the cool kids are. Don't make me sad.

Look for a post on Lost City later this week as well.

-WB

Warmth

2011-03-21T18:24:00.003-04:00

ALWAYS as a rule, the wicked, wet, muddy times of March produce for a moment a perfect weekend of beautiful sun and warmth. As a climber, it's basically sacrilege to miss this prime opportunity. Escaping the clutches of Northeast winter, Kyle and I jetted down I-87 to reach the carriage path, perhaps one last time before the Summer months.

Straight Destiny

The air felt crisp like Fall. Of course, we had to pay, but it was worth it to meet up with Luke, and a few new friends. Erick had an impressive first day ever at the Gunks, sending The Buddha - V7 and The Following - V6. Luke also sent the Buddha and made impressive progress on Boxcar.

Luke's hands

At the Following cave, we met up with a guy name Matt that I had met at Yikes over the winter. After sharing a mutual feeling of "it's been too long for me to try anything hard today" we went and tried Yikes - V9. Matt found himself stuck at the same place as before, but felt good to know he was still there. I made more progress, moving to the iconic dyno and even attempting the jump a few times. It's too bad the season here is ending, I'm just beginning to appreciate Yikes as one of the best on the road.

Sending

We ended the day with a few cold attempts at New Pair, and went home satisfied at 5:30. The sun was still out.

I never thought I would say this, but to see Winter leave isn't all that bad...

We'll see how that goes when I start slipping off of grimy holds.

Send goggles

-WB

College

2011-03-09T21:58:00.003-05:00

I have recently begun the arduous process of selecting the colleges to visit, apply to and go to, and honestly, it sucks. There are more than too many schools and for someone already stunted in the area of decision making, it's literal hell. One of the only common denominators involved in my selecting of colleges is the distance to and the amount of climbing at colleges.

But even then, there's so much more rock out there than anyone could have imagined, and I still find myself fretting over where exactly I should go.

I don't want to stay in the Northeast. Well... at least not New York. I have nothing against it, I just want to be somewhere new. And given this and my previous requirement of climbing, that leaves the obvious choices: the south and the west.

But that's not the end of it, I've just found out that places like Minnesota have climbing. Minnesota? I thought that place was just a rumor or something.

So where do you think I should go? Or at least look... any and all input is greatly appreciated.

For a long time my heart was set on Boulder, but now, I'm starting to think otherwise...

-WB

More Winter

2011-02-15T22:26:00.001-05:00

If you've been following my blog at all these past few months, it's pretty obvious that this Winter has been particularly tough on the Northeast climber.

More specifically, a single Northeast climber. One without a gym, a car, a license, or the ability to subscribe to any training regime that does not involve Netflix and Sour Cream and Onion Chips. Perhaps these decisions (and the awful, straight up awful hand that mother nature has dealt me) are to blame for my apparent lack of progression lately.

And with a lack of progression comes a lack of psyche.
And with a lack of psyche comes a lack of sends.

I would much rather be on a boulder than up on this plateau. It's not even a cool plateau. It's full of worn sweatpants and the scraps of what were possible calluses at one time.

Despite these dark times we're in, I'm still attempting to salvage a send out of this pit, however deep it may be. And the only way to do that is to keep heading out and spending time pulling. Once again, we headed to the gunks.

Surprisingly, the rangers were at the upper lot! GASP! So we went covert-ops and parked at the stair master. There is a reason the stair master is closed this time of year. There is also a reason why, when going climbing, a pair of hiking shoes instead of sneakers is often preferable.

We warmed up on Andrew's Boulder and, while playing around with the Buddha, Ben was able to make a surprise send of The Illustrious Buddha - V8. Aaron also nabbed a send of The Buddha - V7. Next, we walked down to Boxcar, and while Ben flirted with death trying to get down to Bismarck - V10, the rest of us went to check out The Temple of Jahboo - V9. (Temple of Choss/Daboo)

Murph came out and nearly got a send of the tricky roof problem, but called it quits so we could make the long hike back to Ricans and White Boys and New Pair. Arriving at Ricans and White Boys, a FREAK snowstorm and terrible, biting winds swept through the Trapps. However, within ten minutes, blue skies were back.

We need to start getting to these lines earlier in the day, before we are tired and our psyche tanks are empty and it's cold.

Ben nearly sent Ricans and White Boys a good 15 times before we left and ate burritos.

Also, I got a new lens, it rocks, here are the pictures it took.

Murph lurping out of The Temple of Jahboo - V9

Cronin's Face - V9 doesn't suck? What?

Aaron getting real on The Buddha - V7

Adam on Jahboo

After the snow storm

Over the break, I'm going to Europe, where I will bide my time attempting to explain why I'm crying as our bus rolls right. fucking. past. Fontainebleau.

- WB

Winter...

2011-02-02T11:45:00.000-05:00

After a little less than two months away from all things rock, it felt pretty damn good to be squeezed into a two-door hatchback with four people and three crash pads. And even better to finally see the Carriage Road as I know it best, all covered in snow. Unfortunately, this winter has been a little bit less forgiving than last year, and it shows. Topping out anything was out of the question and, despite our best aquatic engineering, many boulders were seeping and dripping all over the place.

The day, however, was not a total loss. Aaron nabbed a send of Art of Nothing - V8, while Tyler and I made excellent progress on the crimpy little stone. All three of us spent a good couple hours on the problem, and it showed as we gave last-ditch attempts on Ricans and White Boys and New Pair of Glasses.

Here are some pictures.

-WB

Hogwartz

2010-12-31T09:58:00.002-05:00

After deciding that I should probably make some kind of attempt at climbing, mother nature decided to rain (or should I say take a massive snow dump) on my parade and send a couple feet to New Paltz, and nothing to Gore Mountain.

Everybody knows you simply cannot climb in the Adirondacks in winter, except when mother nature has gone bat shit crazy and is tossin' loads randomly and without any discernible purpose but to make me sad.

Adam and I went and checked out Murph's new spot in Pottersville called Friedman's Reality or Hogwarts. In conclusion, it's rad.

It's got probably as many boulders as McKenzie, if not more, but there aren't as many lines on each boulder as McKenzie. Some boulders are a heartbreaking mix of perfect size, awesome pitch, no holds (the Adirondack's favorite trick) but most have at least one to five solid lines.

There are a few lines that need mentioning and a few boulders that will be area classics, as long as the access doesn't get destroyed: it's hanging on a thread right now, someone should alert the DEA of a possible meth lab at the top of the hill. I don't know if it's actually a meth lab, but it's near awesome boulders, so they must leave.

By the Meth Lab, there is one. Massive. Boulder. It's about 25-30 feet tall (not an exaggeration) overhung over a flat landing and with two obvious lines up the tallest part. One line is a meandering criss crossing crack line that shouldn't be too hard, but it's long and REALLY tall, and the other has potential to be another classic, hard, Adirondack highball.

I must say, if access is secured this place will be about double the size of Snowy, and with lines on par with the highest grade climbs in the Dacks. Really, the only thing holding it back is the access. The approach is short and easy, the boulders are many and rad, and the people are sketchy and reclusive (and maybe addicted to meth). If we get a few more days of sun, I might head back up there to get me some FAlalalalas.

Consider this your Merry Christmahannakwanzakah. And a happy new years.

Sorry for the lack of pictures

-WB

Murph and Jut at Gnarnia

2010-11-25T18:07:00.001-05:00

The kids spent a little time at the Gnar and nabbed some sends including the FAs of two new problems, Sleepyhead Stand - V7/8 and Vanilla Dreams - V5/6, and a couple repeats/sends of Unicorn of the Sea Stand. The epic problem is settling into the grade of V8, and the sit down is DESTINY.

Destiny.

News and Boredom

2010-11-17T17:59:00.003-05:00

There is absolutely no point to this post besides me searching for a way to pass the time.

Chatted with Murph today. He's been out on the hunt for boulders around the Tupper Lake (Nine Corners) region; however, he recently shifted his focus to the Brant Lake (Gnarnia) area. The rock is all there, but access issues might block or limit the climbing.

He visited the Gnarwhal today to suss out the Unicorn of the Sea SDS project. He cleaned some holds, moved some rocks, and is psyched to start work. It's open season now.

Next week, I've got a bunch of days off, and given my lack of climbing these past few weekends, I hope to accomplish a few tasks.

1. I want to go to Gull Pond.

2. I want to go to New Paltz or Great Barrington

3. I want to go back to Gnarnia and check out surrounding rock

4. I want to go back to Old Bridge (Padanarum Road)

Hopefully, I'll achieve at least one of these and maybe, just maybe, I'll get it all done.

I need a damn license.

-WB

Climbing FO' FREE

2010-11-01T14:36:00.000-04:00

There we were, pulled over on the shoulder of the road, the massively majestic Trapps filling the windshield of Ryan's periwinkle blue, 1980 Mercedes-Benz. We stared at the light tan ridge in silent debate, we could go to the Carriage Path, pay 15 dollars, and destroy our projects in the ideal conditions, or, we could take the right turn in front of us and head towards Triple Right.

Despite quiet, frustrated murmurs from Tyler, we took the right.

Before long, we were sitting beneath Neapolitan, a classic V5 I sent last year (video), but something was wrong. It felt really hard. We quickly spotted a key hold breakage on the beautiful prow, making the send even more elusive. Eventually, Tyler sent with an incredible show of effort, which prompted him to confirm that the new problem was, in fact, not V5. For all intents and purposes, it's now Metrosexual - V6/7.

JP sets up to throw off of a bad sloper and a small slot

JP sticks the jump

We then spent some time on some other warm-ups, including a fun dyno and two semi-highball moderates.

Ryan Konopinski makes quick work of the dyno.

Since the moment we began considering Triple Right as a destination, a single motivation had consumed me, I had to send Gillete, a V6 that had thwarted my best efforts last year.

Ryan topping out a beautiful boulder.

The problem starts on two namesake crimps, which rip at your finger tips until specks of white bone begin to poke out of the bloody stumps you call fingers. It then moves to an incredible pinch with a surprisingly sharp thumb catch, and ends on an incredible, blind toss for an edge near the lip. I had never caught that toss. I would today.

Preparing to launch on Gillete - V6.

My fingers seemed to snap back into my palms, reluctant to touch the razor starting crimps, but after conditioning my fingers to handle the pain, my attempts became better and better.

An unassuming Tyler stepped up to the two crimps and took off. He set up for the jump and threw. Suddenly, a sound emerged from Tyler that I have never heard a living thing make. He caught the hold. He did not swing. He just yelled. This roar erupted from Tyler and echoed amongst the trees for at least 10 minutes after he sent. Ryan and I stood with slack jaws.

Tyler also gave some good goes on Steppin' Razor - V9 (previously V10), and unlocked some key beta on the incredibly aesthetic and terrifying blade.

Tyler trying not to get cut by the beautiful Steppin' Razor - V9.

Before moving on, I wanted a few last attempts on Gillete. I wasn't going to leave without a send. I stepped up to the crimps and, for once, they didn't hurt that bad, infact, they were almost inviting me to climb on them. Before I knew it, I was on top of the boulder doing a send dance.

On of many near misses on Gillete - V6.

Tyler also sent Pussy Willow - V6, giving him at least three V6 sends for the day, and a plethora of other sends as well.

Tyler making a big move on Pussy Willow - V6.

But our day wasn't over.

We rushed over to the Carraige Path, arriving at 5:30, an eerie mist creeped over the town of New Paltz as daylight disintegrated. We flew up the stairmaster in record time, and best of all, we didn't have to pay. We arrived at the Yikes corridor to meet Tyler's friends Matt, Noah and Noah. Matt was tantalizingly close on Yikes - V9 (The problem everybody is working, and nobody is sending!) and Tyler realized he was too tired to work on the problem tonight.

We topped our night off with a headlamp session at Black Boulder. I sent 4 times. Ryan got VERY close.

The true end to our evening was at Mexicali Blue.

The end.

-WB

Not That Day

2010-10-19T21:27:00.000-04:00

The atmosphere hung still and cold by the boulders at Great Barrington. A warming, golden sunlight filtered through the leaves, spilled down from above onto a few chalky, white splotches of rock. It was nothing short of beautiful.

Our palms began to sweat.

Upon touching our tantalized fingers to the grey and orange stone, the rock bit back with a cold which pervaded our being far deeper than just our finger tips. That biting cold found it's way into a corner of our brain reserved only for climbing, and upon arriving, opened a dusty doorway into a niche reserved only for days like this; fall climbing days when perfection is defined.

This was it.

We warmed up and determined the plan of attack for the day; given conditions like this, one must remain disciplined and organized to take full advantage and accomplish our respective goals. I began trying The Prow Traverse - V5, an old, pumpy project of mine, which, on this day, felt far easier. I sent shortly.

Friend topping out the traverse

We dragged our pads down the leafy dirt hill and threw them down under The Probe - V8. Tyler proceeded to dispatch the problem in two, overlapping pieces. We began resting as the sound of rustling leaves alerted us to company. I can honestly say that, in most cases, I thoroughly enjoy meeting and befriending new people through bouldering. It's one of the aspects of the sport that sets it apart from others, and attracts me to it, and these people seemed to be as excited as we were about the beautiful day.

Tyler and I decided that this was the day, the day that we would crush numerous problems, regardless of grade, or style, or height. On a day like this, when our bodies move more freely and delicately from hold to hold, and we find ourselves sitting at the tops of boulder problems, we could do anything.

Tyler sat down beneath The Probe and began what was likely his send attempt.

He reached the namesake hold.

Something went wrong.

In the next few, blurry moments, a loud, cracking thud echoed off of the pines and withing all of the climbers watching. Tyler was on the pad, and the probe was on him. The unthinkable had happened; the probe was broken; this was not the day.

This was not that day.

Bewildered, half-true jokes were made at Tyler. Stunned faces stared blankly at the brown silhouette scar left by the break. Frantic hands caressed the scar for signs of a new hold. All that was left were two, horrid crimps.

JP slaps the sloper on The Egg.

So what? We had to move on, and although Tyler's morale was a bit wounded, we kept climbing; there was nothing else to do. I tried The Egg - V6 a bit, and sent The Prow Dyno - V4/5, as a heart-broken Tyler went to the speed boulder to sit and think about what he had done.

Friend on The Dyno.

We met back up and went to a new area five minutes or so past the Erkenen boulder. Tyler showed me an incredible boulder, displaying the best rock I have seen at Great Barrington, as well as a few hard problems like Kindred Spirits - V9 and True Bleau - V10ish. Next, we explored a bit and found ourselves at The Cube boulder. Whose beautiful, tall, proud face required a visit from us that day.

We set our pads underneath the least intimidating line on the boulder and began work. After a few goes, we both sent what we both decided was "the best V2 I have ever climbed", as it would be, we were climbing on a V4 known as Rubiks Cube. A deadpoint move to a perfect crystal-pinch leads to a heady top-out and incredible view.

Rubiks Cube

We ended our day at Snooze Button. Where we both decided we were done climbing.

We hadn't had that day, but we had a day, and, hell, the day we had was pretty fucking sweet. Climbing sometimes teases me and leaves me wanting more from it, but the moment I start to doubt my passion for it, it drags me back in with a day like this one.

Fading light on Snooze.

Thanks, Tyler, for making this day as awesome as it was, and for breaking The Probe, because if that problem was still there, we wouldn't have had the day we did.

It wasn't even that great a problem, anyway.

-WB

Dude...

2010-10-19T20:33:00.000-04:00

... Look what I did to The Probe...

Guess what!

2010-10-06T17:04:00.002-04:00

No, I didn't go climbing...

... but I am trying to set something up for this weekend.

Here's the plan:

Saturday - New Paltz (Lost City? Northeast?) for the Reel Rock Film Tour.

Sunday - Gull Pond to develop some rad-ass boulders.

Monday - I don't know.

If anyone would like to help me accomplish these goals.

Comment, call, text, mail, come find me.

I want rock.

-WB

Busy Busy Busy Busy

2010-09-14T19:17:00.002-04:00

Busy Busy Busy Busy.

As the summer came to a close, I began mentally preparing myself for the hardships Junior year was sure to bring me.

But I could never prepare myself for the unthinkable.

Let's see if you can sympathize. I wake up Saturday and open my window to perfect overcast skies, 60-70 degree weather (perfect flannel weather), the air is dry and there is a slight breeze.

And I am not on a rock.

Why aren't I on a rock?

1. I don't have a license.

2. I am busier than I have ever been.

3. None of the excuses seem good enough for me.

I don't want to talk about it.

-WB

The Fall's Coming

2010-08-31T13:41:00.000-04:00

Look guys, I'm sorry the blog posts have been few and far between these past few months, but with so much constant climbing, it can be hard for a little blogger like me to keep up with it all.

However, with Summer winding down and Sendtember right around the corner, I'm excited to start supplying you with content at least once every two weeks.

Truth be-told, it's been strange for me to consider updating a blog entitled "Weekend Bouldering", when I'm finding myself drawn away from the pebbles and towards the cliffs, rope and quickdraws in hand.

Don't get me wrong, I love bouldering and it will always have a place in my heart. Lately, however, bouldering has left something to be desired. Something that can only be found 60 feet up, bouldering above your bolt.

You'll notice I used the word "bouldering" to describe my experiences in sport climbing. At this point, I don't think I could completely focus on one discipline or the other. While sport climbing gives me the sustained movement and feeling of "getting somewhere", bouldering helps me hone in on the short bursts of power I need to help excel at sport. I don't boulder as practice for sport, and I don't sport climb as practice for bouldering.

All of my climbing is practice for harder and better climbing.

While, I will admit, I'm still not completely comfortable above my bolt (likely my biggest downfall... pun intended) and I struggle heavily on the route-y sections of climbs, with many holds and not a lot of beta, I'm learning, growing, and becoming a more well-rounded climber because of it.

For those of you who have read all this, I'll reward you with a slew of pictures.

For those who haven't... you get to see them anyway...

RUMNEY:

Michael, Murph and I spent a weekend at Rumney, I sent my first 5.12 (Social Outcast) and we had a grand ol' time.

Me on my next project, Techno Surfing - 5.12b

Michael working Livin' Astro - 5.14c

Waimea - 5.10d

Michael styling up Big Kahuna - 5.13a

Murph on Suburban - 5.13a

Me sending Social Outcast - 5.12a

Unpsyched

SMUGGLER'S NOTCH:

The following weekend, Adam, Izzy, Evan, Morgan and I hauled up to Smuggler's Notch to climb on the beautiful blue-schist boulders that line the steep Green Mountain pass. The road's were tight, the boulders were large and the lines were fun.

Adam working on Backwards Reflector - V5

Adam with a game-face on Nemesis - V5

Me on the frustrating Impossible Problem - V8/9

Evan's fingers.

The throw off of tiny crimps on Impossible Problem.

Adam finishing Primate 2000 - V3

Evan nearly sending Impossible Sit - V11/12

Rumney Overview

2010-08-02T19:30:00.000-04:00

Oh, the powerful truth inscribed on that shirt.

There was quite the party at Rumney this weekend. Despite not having sport climbed in a year and succumbing to a crippling pump several times during our visit, I managed to climb a lot of great routes in the 5.10-12 range and found a creature dwelling quietly inside of me... I really enjoy sport climbing.

I'll do a huge post with photos and such later. Now, it's time to rest and come up with a new name for the blog... I may not exclusively be a weekend boulderer anymore.

-JP

Beach Bouldering Video

2010-07-29T00:22:00.000-04:00

Nick, from Eastern Climber is putting together a kick-ass video of our beach bouldering trip. Also, I have added his blog to the blogroll, he's got an incredible website with posts on areas, reviews, commentary on climbing and more! Be sure to check it out.

Beach Bouldering in the Northeast

2010-07-22T17:45:00.000-04:00

Yes, you read that title correctly.

This past weekend, Nick, two new friends Amanda and Kevin and I set forth on an epic journey to the North Shore of Long Island. Our minds were filled with whimsical stories of incredible granite boulders that litter the coastline of East Marion... but I had my suspicions. Surely, such a place couldn't exist in New York!

We arrived at the Wildwood State Park campsite late on Friday and were greated by 7001 degrees Celsius heat and a 500% humidity. Every ten minutes or so a group of drunken men with a lantern who's brightness rivaled the sun would shout "YEAAAH!". And just to make sure we didn't sleep, an angry Chinese woman banged on our tent at around 3 in the morning, yelling in Chinese. We awoke at 5 to the sound of ducks quacking.

But us boulderer's are resilient, and after some chocolate chip pancakes and coffee, we were on our way.

Before we knew it, we were walking down the many steps, a landscape of winding coastline and... no, it couldn't be! boulders? Our paces sped up as we passed boulders that seemed to grow bigger and bigger until in the distance we saw it, a house sized, orange, granite boulder placed 10 feet from the water.

We began goes on a very fun V4 that centers around one dynamic move to a jug. After taking it down, we tried the low-start into the V4 that goes at V7. We worked out some beta and after several goes I pieced it together and sent! Probably my fasted sending of a V7 to date.

There is a certain laid back quality to beach bouldering... dips in the ocean between goes... girls in bikinis strolling by... and despite the hot Summer sun, the rock stayed full of friction!

Nick began working on his project from his last visit, an interesting traverse which we could not decide the grade on. He pieced it together slowly, and eventually took it down! I got to play around with my 50 mm lens on this one, and I'm very happy with the results.

We played around on a few more climbs, our bud Kevin took down a technical V6, our other friend Pat played around on a ridiculously crimp tall man project (probably like V10) and we explored the beach and found some great new lines on the most beautiful boulder I have ever seen.

After a night touring the streets of beautiful Port Jefferson, and observing the stunning sunset, we returned to the campsite and, against all odds, slept well with a day of sun, surf and bouldering pulsing through our systems.

The next day, we climbed on a different boulder and put up three new lines at V2, V2 and Vsomethinghigherthan4. I got close on the V6 traverse, but greased off the top-out, twice. We spent the last few hours bullshitting and taking pictures.

It was quite the adventure.

-WB

List of Problems at Gnarnia

2010-07-12T11:13:00.003-04:00

The Wardrobe

Prince Caspian Left - Project - V7/8?
Prince Caspian Right - V2*
Flesh Failures - V6*
Crimp Line - Project - V8/9?
The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe - V6***
The Wardrobe - V3***

Treeboob

P.U.S. - V3
Sleepyhead Stand - Project - V7/8?
Sleepyhead Sit - Project - V9/10?
Stuff of Dreams - V4****
Vanilla Slice into Stuff of Dreams - Project
Vanilla Slice - V6**
Chilled Soup - V5***

Shark Fin

Shark Fin - V5*

The Room

The Room - V7****

Lightning Block

Lightning Block - V0*
Double Dog - V0

Pennyroyal

Pennyroyal - V0
Lip Traverse - Project
Elephant Skin - V4*

Gnarwhal

Unicorn of the Sea - V9****
Unicorn of the Sea Super Stand - V5****
Unicorn of the Sea Sit - Project - V11/12?
Twisted Tooth - V2****

Chocolate Chip

Benjamin Franklin - V1*
Tollhouse - V3**
Cookie Dough - V2*
Ghetto Chip Malfunction - Project - V6?

Obvious Undeveloped Boulders:

Impact Boulder (in the gully left of treeboob)
Jungle Boulder (below impact)

This list is ongoing and will be updated as more problems get done. There's still a boatload of problems, hard and easy, to clean and climb! So get up to gnarnia and nab some quality FA's

You will be mine...

2010-07-11T18:15:00.002-04:00

... in one to two business days.

Words can't describe my excitement to start taking pictures with this wonderful little device.

Oh fedex ground, you're cheap (kinda), but I am impatient, and you are slow...

-WB

P.S. I think I'll do more of these little posts, they are quick, easy and low-fat for those looking to read lighter... of course, I will throw in a large post every now and again, but with this camera you should be expecting MOSTLY pictures.

New Template

2010-07-11T11:55:00.001-04:00

Yep, it's sexy.

Padanarum Road

2010-07-10T21:18:00.004-04:00

And so the Adirondack Bouldering exploration continues, this week, Google Maps along with The Adirondack Topo Map Browser (free service courtesy of Wild River Maps) proved to be very good tools in the arsenal of the Adirondack explorer.

The Topo Map Browser combines maps from Google and property line information to produce a perfectly good map of the entire adirondack park that illustrates private, public and state owned lands...

I have selected several spots to explore using these tools, and today, we visited two of them.

The first was a mountain along Beaver Pond Road by Brant Lake. We hiked in a little, but were discouraged by the increasingly marshy and thick woods, we'll have to save it for another day when we can figure a different approach.

The second area is along Padanarum Road... an old, remote, unmarked dirt road that spurs off of Rt. 9. The road is incredible, and weaves through old, tall woods and over old one lane bridges with weight limits... ah, good times.

We parked at the intersection of Wardsboro Road and Padanarum Road... also unmarked besides an old wooden sign, felled right in the middle of the intersection.

After hiking along Northwest Bay Brook and up along the hill, we were beginning to lose hope, there was a rock, but very scarce and not too promising... and then we saw it, down the hill was the the huge grey silhouette of what could only be a boulder, a HUGE boulder.

The Dihedral Cave on the First Big Boulder. Much more impressive in person.

The first feature we noticed was an incredible dihedral cave on the front of the boulder with an obvious hard line on it, and a beautiful 10 degree wall full of crimps and edges.

10 degree Crimp Wall on the First Big Boulder

What followed were what always follows upon finding new boulders, fondling of holds, screaming "CHECK THIS OUT" to eachother, and exploring more and more...

We found 10-15 boulders, all with 2+ problems on them. The first boulder alone probably has 20-30.

This area is very promising, as there are a good deal of holds, on very angular, overhung rock with little choss and an easy hike in.

More on this area as we clean this week.

-WB

4th of July and Gnarnia

2010-07-05T21:49:00.004-04:00

Since I was at my wonderful camp on Brant Lake all weekend, I spent a good 3 days at the developing boulderfield, Gnarnia.

Saturday was a half day of climbing for Spook and me and all of our focus was directed at a problem we had eyed on previous visits, what would be dubbed The Room Project works up and left on a crimp seam.

The moves proved incredibly interesting, and we both got all the moves, but failed to piece it together.

The problem starts on good crimps and then utilizes a high foot to reach left hand to a gaston, following a fall in to a strange crimp pinch sloper thing. This crux sequence is then followed by a very low percentage jump move and a not so easy top-out sequence.

After a little bit of work, I nabbed the FA of The Room - V7 alone in the woods with only my little metolius pad under me for comfort on the top-out. So pumped.

Also on Saturday I hiked to Gull Pond, an area described in Adirondack Rock and several other guides as a beautiful pond with sheer rock cliffs. Turns out there are cliffs, and boulders, large, overhung boulders with incredible features.

Gull Pond Cliff. And Boulders.

And due to a beautiful setting and the 0.5 mile, DEC maintained approach this area holds some promise...

Adam came to gnarnia today and got the second ascent of The Room and also cleaned a few lines including 3 new V0s! Gnarnia's first V0s!

New V0s
- Pennyroyal - FA JP Whitehead
- Double Dog - FA JP Whitehead
- Lightning Block - FA Adam Catalano

Pennyroyal is kinda dumb... but Double Dog and Lightning Block are very fun slabs with cool features. Finally some good warm ups.

The bugs were horrendous... if you're going to Gnarnia... bring bug spray.

Bathe in bug spray.

-WB

Lazy Dayz

2010-06-27T11:57:00.004-04:00

I really shouldn't say that this summers been lazy, in fact I am busier than I have been in a while, and times when I'm free, I'm climbing.

Climbing feels like a rest day from life for me. I don't have to think about any other stress besides the constant frustration of bouldering. However, instead of resenting this frustration and the sport in general, bouldering has taught me to turn this frustration into motivation.

Summer is sinking in, and so is that feeling of my whole world slowing down. Hours mix together and I lose track of the time constantly. Days lose their common titles of Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday and turn into days when I'm climbing, working, or simply relaxing.

It's a trip.

This past weekend I spent some quality summer days with my friend, coach and mentor, Spook as we ventured to both McKenzie Pond and Peterskill.

Up north the weather was beautiful, dry and sunny. We warmed up and then gave goes at Giant Sucker - V2, I am convinced I will never do this problem...

We then spent some time on Shut Up Machine - V8, and ran into our friend Max and his girlfriend. Spook and Aaron were psyched on Star Chores - V8, so they gave goes and got close, but couldn't piece the tricky traverse together.

Our day was then graced by the presence of our good friend Buzzy. Buzzy's motivation and psyche is unfaltering and that, coupled with his wide smile, seems to spread amongst the group.

Mah hairs are short. Flux Capacitor - V8

In all my times at McKenzie, I had never touched a hold on Flux Capacitor - V8, and I sorely regret it. I cannot believe how good of a problem it is... and I'm so psyched to get back to it.
McKenzie has a way of producing incredible days, not necessarily in climbing, but in good friends and good times.

The next day we opted to avoid the rain and head south to Peterskill, as Spook and I still had a few projects to work out.

We warmed up (something I hate doing on the unforgiving pebbles of Pkill) and then sped up to Adam's project Village Idiot - V7. This tall, testy problem had plagued Spook for a long time, and after valiantly fighting its slot crimps and crux last moves, found his way to the top and proudly proclaimed on his facebook status that HE was the village idiot.

Next it was on too my project, Delicate Soul - V7. I had gotten devastatingly close last time on this long and aesthetic lip traverse. Spook and I both knew it would go today, but after several failed attempts to make it past the first 5 moves, and a flap of rubber slowly peeling of my heel, spirits were dampened.

Mah hairs are long! Definitely not the send go of Delicate Soul - V7

I rested, super-glued the rubber onto my heel, chalked up and began the problem, I made it past the first sequence and eventually found myself pumped out of my mind on top of the boulder. Thank you adrenaline and various yells for getting me through that last sequence.

We left at 1:30.

-WB

Feelin' Hot, Hot, Gross

2010-06-21T09:36:00.004-04:00

BLEH.

I'm convinced my climbing appetite can never be satisfied by this miserable Summer weather. Sure, freedom from the suffocating stress of school and the careless feeling of schedule free, lazy days is nice, but when those lazy days involve climbing and when that climbing entails losing five pounds of weight through sweat, I begin to go a little stir crazy in the Summertime.

And of course, when it's not 189 degrees out, it's pouring rain.

Well, I am attempting to make the best of this swampy Summer season, most recently at Gnarnia this past weekend, when Spook and I gave Evan and Izzy a tour of the new boulderfield.

At the Wardrobe, Spook took down my project Flesh Failures and called it V6. I personally believe it to be at least one grade harder but a lil sandbagging never hurt. Evan was interested in the very obvious undone line in the middle of the boulder, and with some new sharp crimp beta he almost stuck the crux move, but split a tip and had to call it off. He feels its somewhere in the V8/9 range.

With the temperatures rising rapidly we roamed on up to the Gnarwhal with its newly made, professional platform... which is more like a patio as it is somewhere around 100 square feet.

We enjoyed some lunch, then got to work on Unicorn of the Sea Super Stand - V5, which is quickly becoming a classic of the area. The problem works through some fun arete moves on large sloping ledges to a committing heel hook and top out, and with the newly installed platform you don't have to worry about dying! Yay!

Evan and I also made a quick exploration of the Mole People Crevasse to find that it is, as I had hoped, flippin' sweet. 100 foot high walls on both sides produce a 2-3 foot wide corridor that gets a lot of daylight and is easy to navigate. It leads to a beautiful lookout on top of a ledge somewhere on the cliffs.

We then finished our day at the Treeboob Boulder, where Izzy dispatched another classic, Stuff of Dreams - V4. Evan became interested in the Sleepyhead Sit project, which climbs a slopey arete to an interesting finish, he thought it could be V9/10. Finally, Spook took down another FA, a VERY fun slopey arete which he called Chilled Soup - V5, something we all might have liked to have on this sweltering day.

I'll be back for a very interesting looking crimp seam traverse thing on the boulder I'm calling The Room this weekend.

On this last visit, I realized that Gnarnia no longer felt like a developing area, but a semi-developed boulder field. At this point I've decided to begin compiling a guidebook to the spot, partly because I am bored and also because I need some practice for the big guidebook project.

Below is a list of the current problems at Gnarnia (including obvious projects) and their star ratings out of five. If you object to the ratings comment!

The Wardrobe

Prince Caspian Left - Project - V7/8?
Prince Caspian Right - V2*
Flesh Failures - V6*** (EDIT)
Crimp Line - Project - V8/9?
The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe - V6***(EDIT)
The Wardrobe - V3***

Treeboob

P.U.S. - V3
Sleepyhead Stand - Project - V7/8?
Sleepyhead Sit - Project - V9/10?
Stuff of Dreams - V4****(EDIT)
Vanilla Slice - V5**
Chilled Soup - V5***

Gnarwhal

Unicorn of the Sea - V9****
Unicorn of the Sea Super Stand - V5****
Unicorn of the Sea Sit - Project - V11/12?
Gnar Wars - Project

Chocolate Chip

Benjamin Franklin - V1*
Tollhouse - V3**
Cookie Dough - V2*
Ghetto Chip Malfunction - Project - V6?

The Room

The Room - Project

Commence Comments
-WB

Photo Special!

2010-06-03T14:12:00.012-04:00

The Pond

In response to the barrage of PHOTO SPECIALS various climbing magazines have been and are currently spewing at us we felt we would make a little photo special of our own.

Courtesy of Tyler Hogan and Aaron Newell:

Blog, meet Nick. Nick, Blog.

Om nom nom.

He dropped his avocado.

But really though, we had a grand 'ol time at McKenzie this past weekend, and I am happy to say it was one of the most epic days I have had in a while. I guess that's the dacks for you...

The epicness began while my I allowed my eyes to rest in the stuffy heat of the loft at my camp on Brant. Just as I was beginning to drift into dreams of boulders, Tyler texted me speaking of climbing the following day.

Aaron Newell on a photo shoot of Hooker - V3

My mind immediately was focused on the dull pain in my tips, two days of working sharp projects at Gnarnia had left them bruised and red. The decision I had made thousands of times was yet again unchanged by the slow, creeping pain and I immediately said yes to an early morning and sharp Adirondack gneiss.

Taylor.

We began our day on Slobodon - V5, which Aaron, a kid we met named Lucas, and I sent quickly. Aaron began working on Super Karate Chop - V8. He had quickly sent what we believed to be Karate Chop - V7... but it was actually Global Chop Suey - V2. He got close on Super.

JP on Giant Sucker - V2

Suddenly, bounding through the woods came a curly-haired, headband wearing man with a beautiful dog. They looked a little worn after a night spent in the woods. This, was Nick, a guy who I had been in contact with over email/facebook. He was quickly welcomed into our group and we moved back to the 3rd set.

Cartwheel - V9

While Aaron, Tyler and Lucas began work on Flux Capacitor - V8, I decided to show Nick my favorite problem at the Pond, Thrust Fault - V3. The mix of height, smooth movement and a crux last move make this problem perfect. And now it holds a special place in my heart as the problem that gave me my first ever flapper. It was a pretty epic fall and a *bloody* good time.

Nick on Flux Capacitor

Tyler made some really good progress on Flux and it'll be interesting to see how he does next time. While I was telling a man with INSANELY STRONG FINGERS (he was working a project called BUCKETS OF BLOOD that had two of the smallest holds I have ever seen) about my fall, a pair of strong, familiar arms surrounded me and lifted me up.... Kyle. Turns out Kyle made the drive up to McKenzie with Evan and Izzy. He told us that Evan sent Stanfields - V9 like it was his job. Typical.

Aaron Newell on Shut Up Machine - V9

Izzy also sent, with ease, a problem of hers called Brock Lee Soars - V2.

Izzy lookin' a little desperate on Giant Sucker

We parted for a little, and then met back up with them at my goal for the day b.f. (before flapper): Giant Sucker - V2. This intimidating and strangely irresistible slab had been on my list since last year. We all began giving goes and in a flurry of awkward dances, scary falls, good spotting, bullshitting and picture taking the true essence of bouldering shined through. Bouldering, after all, is a social sport that can sometimes be a little childish.

On our way home, we stopped and grabbed some Tacos at a road side stand and gossiped about roadside-stand-betrayal with the owner.

Epic.
-WB

Video From the Gnarness

2010-05-16T21:27:00.009-04:00

Here is a couple quick videos JP shot on a recent trip to Brant.

The first one is, The Lion, The Witch and the Wardrobe weighing in at v6. It has great moves and a good finish. Also, I should be totally exonerated from any mockery about boulder problem names, JP is the soul author of such titles.

The second video is the super high start to the Gnar wall. The video does it no justice. You can hear the concern in JP's voice as he tells me at least 15 times to "be careful Murph" And the fact that he is out of the shot after the second move tells the story. But with no worry, more platform work and bunch of pads could make it safe.

Now that I have confiscated JP's flip there should be a bunch more videos surfacing.

Thinking about putting a video of the top ten classic, top ten hardest, and top ten for the worst boulder problems in the Dacks. Should be very interesting, but don't hold your breath it could take months.

This Should Be Fun...

2010-05-08T21:10:00.003-04:00

So on the ride back from a good sesh at the Rez yesterday, Murph and I (between bouts of what can only be described by spontaneous napping disorder) discussed what we believed were the best of each grade in the Northeast.

We came up with a pretty good list, but I'd rather have you guys debate it, it's more fun that way!

We picked problems based on obvious starts and finishes, purity of the line and overall quality of the problem.

Here's what we came up with. I highlights my picks.

Candidates for...
V4:

Origin - Nine Corners
Crystal Quartz Problem - The Rez
Mentos - Peterskill

V5:

Snooze Button - The Rez
Long Live Legos - Nine Corners
Slobodon - McKenzie Pond (I don't like it but...)
I.F. - McKenzie Pond
Sleeping Giant - Hideaway

V6:

Larry - Sunny Side
Coitus - Snowy Mountain
The Egg - The Rez
The Wave - Farley
IHOP - Snowy Mountain

V7: Starts to get hard.

New Pair of Glasses - Carriage Path
Village Idiot - Peterskill
Tweekybird - Farley

V8: VERY hard to pick just one.

Thorazine - Nine Corners
Flux Capacitor - McKenzie
Who Needs Hueco - Lincoln Woods
Boxcar Arete - Carriage Path

V9+ I'll let you decide... I don't have much of a say on problems this hard.

DEBATE DEBATE DEBATE! We need a winner in each category!

-WB

Moar Gnar!

2010-05-03T16:18:00.005-04:00

Murph on the Gnarwhal

Last weekend I managed to squeeze in 2 days at Gnarnia on Brant Lake, an area that we have been working to develop. This time, I was bringing along Murph, who has been waiting to visit the Gnar and also be featured on the blog.

He explained that recently, he's been crushing hard after he rediscovered some motivation to send and cleaned up his lifestyle a little. It was clear he was stronger... but how strong?

JP on The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe - V6

We arrived at the Wardrobe boulder around 2:00 and we both warmed up on The Wardrobe - V3, which has turned out to be one of the better problems at Gnarnia so far. After the Wardrobe, Murph set his eyes on an obvious traverse that starts at the left end of the boulder and finishes on Wardrobe. We gave it a few goes, and eventually got back to back ascents of The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe - V6. This GREAT problem moves through interesting crimps and edges to killer underclings and a pumpy redpoint crux on Wardrobe. Murph got the FA.

Next we headed up the hill, directly to the Gnarwhal, a boulder Murph had been dying to see since its debut on the blog and facebook. He was not disappointed as a he sat beneath the behemoth overhang. After a minute of looking and fondling holds, Murph turns and says quietly with a hint of sarcasm "I wanna rock climb it". Of course I took this simple phrase as a joke, I mean, the platform was more than sketchy, we only had 3 pads (plus a piece of hard dock foam) and I was the only spotter.

Murph getting to entering the crux of Unicorn of the Sea Super Stand - V4/5

We quickly assembled the platform so it was at least sturdy enough to fall on (in some places...) and began working what was the obvious stand from the platform. Murph got to the top first time, and before he attempted the top-out, which was not protected by the platform, he sussed out moves, and came down twice.

Then, on his third visit to the nicely placed jug right before the finish, he yelled down to me, tentatively spotting:

"I've got a sequence worked out"

"Are you gonna top-out?"

"Yes"

"...Okay..."

Before I could worry Murph was standing atop the beast, fresh chalk glimmered on the textured ledges, and the Unicorn of the Sea Super Stand - V4/5 had been erected.

JP feelin' the moves on the Gnarwhal.

Next came the stand from in the pit below the platform. There are TWO sketch zones on this line, 1 being the start (which can be avoided with good pads and spotters, and the other being the top-out. After a good deal of time just trying to get on the problem, Murph pulled off and nearly stuck the first move. The first move is a hard cross over into a pinch, followed by another hard move to the starting ledge of the Super Stand.

Murph stuck the first move, and while trying to execute the second, he fell and nearly tumbled into the abyss below. He rested for a second, and then set up to try the problem again. He stuck the first move, and with a little hop and grunt he reached the ledge. I quickly hurried onto the platform to spot, and watched as Murph executed the incredible problem with ease.

And so, the Unicorn of the Sea - V8/9 was tackled and conquered. Murph believed the grade to be V8, but the problem was also his style, and he has been climbing strong lately, so he did not want to give a definite grade. Let me put it this way, if V8 is your limit, this is NOT the climb for you. When you add in the height and length, the grade seems much harder.

Still high off the send, Murph and I headed to the Treeboob boulder and managed two more FA's, one being a tall and beautiful arete which I named Stuff of Dreams - V4 and the other being a lowball, ugly and painful problem called P.U.S - V2 (Pinky Under Scalpel). We headed out happy and tired.

Murph executing the boom-box-position infront of Treeboob, behind him is Stuff of Dreams - V4, and pads are under Vanilla Slice - V5

Ben, Spook and I returned the next day and put up Prince Caspian - V2 on the Wardrobe boulder, and a few interesting moderates on a new boulder which is full of atypical slopers.

There is still TONS to do at Gnarnia! So get your shoes and chalk, head up to Brant and give a few goes!

Email me at weekendbouldering@gmail.com for a tour, information or if you get some sends!

Its real hot in the northeast right now... NOT sending weather...
-WB

The Gnar.

2010-04-25T09:15:00.006-04:00

Setting up to snatch those half-pad crimpers! Vanilla Slice - V5

It's the post you've all been waiting for!

Yesterday, Spook, Tyler and I took advantage of the great weather by making our first nice weather trip to Gnarnia (I'll explain where it is later).

The Wardrobe - V3

The first line you come to is on the arete of a beautiful boulder. We cleaned it off and began working. After a few goes, I got the FA of The Wardrobe - V3. Balance moves lead to a (crux?) full value top-out. Psyched!

Topping out The Wardrobe - V3

Next, we moved up the hill to the Treeboob boulder. Tyler and I began trying the obvious, tall dead vertical line on the right side of the boulder. After working it a while, Tyler got the FA of Vanilla Slice - V5. Spook and I weren't able to send this tall, thin crimpfest, but I am pumped to get back on it.

Tyler psyched on the FA of Vanilla Slice - V5

Eventually we left to go get wood to build the Gnarwhal platform. We had the lumber, we just had to get it up the hill. Eventually we got the wood to the Gnarwhal, but before we started building, Spook wanted to clean off the top. He rapped down and with a little nudge, all the moss that lay on top of the monster rolled off and landed neatly, unraveled, on the slab.

Stand start on the obvious crescent, moves up into the sloping ledges. The sit starts down in the pit, a good 6-7 feet below the crescent on crimps.

The boulder looks a little less intimidating without its hair, and a little more doable. The best of the best are going to have to come out to do battle with this one, the stand may not be bad, but the sit... oh the sit...

Can't wait to get back.

Alright, now, how to get there. Gnarnia is located at Brant Lake in the Adirondacks, behind Palmer Brothers Marina. To get to the marina, take Exit 25 of I87, then make a right towards Brant Lake on Rt8, then make a left onto Palisades Road (CoRd26) the marina is visible now. If it is open, ask them where they would like you to park. They are VERY nice people (they let us bring 10 two-by-fours into the woods without asking many questions), so be courteous and respectful. Hike in on the snowmobile trail, the first boulder is against the trail. To get up to the cliff, follow the logging trails up or just hike straight up.

Good luck! Email me if you get some sends up there!

-WB

After School.

2010-04-21T21:30:00.003-04:00

Alright, Nine Corners After School 4/20 Rap Up!

Micky, Kyle, Ben and I. We got there around 3:15.

Micky impressed immediately with getting Andrugen on LOCKDOWN. Kyle began working Thorazine, Micky began working Meat and Potatoes - V1, and we all finally congregated around Bearded Earnie - V7. Feels hard, and burly, but fun. No one sent except for Ben for like the 8th time or something.

Then, Ben and I began trying NBC you now have to match the crimp to start (the other one broke). Ben sent using the small sidepull and I sent without it. Either way it feels to be about V6... I don't know why it was harder before.

Next it was on to the Ying Yang boulder. Here, Ben worked and sent Power of the Pessimist - V7. I sent Power of Belief - V4, one of the most fun problems at Nine. Would be one of the best if not for the dab start.

Good day.
-WB

Nine Corners Grades

2010-04-15T16:56:00.004-04:00

On my latest spraydown post on Nine Corners, some controversy over the grades came up.

Ben's argument was:

"if yoga is the standard for eight then stuff is def not graded right"

Anon (Tyler?) responded with this:

"You guys have to keep in mind that the more you climb, the stronger you are going to get...not that boulder problems need to be downgraded as a result of increased climbing abilities. I have climbed all over the world and the grades at 9 seem to be pretty accurate. In most cases, you will here people on their first visit spraying that everything has been sandbagged at 9. Ben...I recall you also thinking that boxcar arete should be downgraded because you did it easily...but remember that the V-grade comes from a climbing consenses and do you have any idea how many people think Boxcar Arete is in fact a V8? Enjoy the climbing you get in and try to forget about the number game once and a while. You might enjoy it more that way!"

Amen.

If we continue to simply downgrade whenever we break through to that next grade, whatever it may be, we will not progress. When I first sat down under Thorazine, I couldn't move off the start holds. The problem felt as if it would only remain in my dreams, or in the ticklists of my much stronger friends. This will always be fact. Although I have progressed in my strength as a climber, the difficulty of the problem never changed. It was still the same boulder I had sat beneath and wondered how it was even possible to perform such a feat, I had just gotten stronger.

Obviously a lot of my psyche from sending Thorazine stems from the grade, but more of it comes from the amount of time I put in on the problem and the quality of the line.

Many, many other people have climbed Thorazine, and there hasn't been any significant talk of down-grading before. The consesus is that the grade V8 suits the problem well, and it should not be changed.

Feel free to tell me I am completely wrong.

-WB

The Guidebook Page

2010-04-15T12:39:00.004-04:00

Look at the top of the page.

No, not that far. Below the beautiful picture.

You see the word "Home"? Next to that are the words "Adirondack Bouldering Guidebook Discussion". Click there, read, comment.

If anyone has a better idea of where to have this discussion tell me!

Also, I went to the Stables Boulder and it was pretty sweet, sharp and damn technical climbing. Lots of projects as well.

Good place to work anti-styles.

-WB

Nine Corners Destruction

2010-04-13T14:23:00.000-04:00

I know, I know, I never finished the posts about Tennessee, but be patient. Once I get some pictures I'll do a huge media dump with a little write up about the sends.

For now, let me tell you about the most epic day of Nine Corners destruction ever.

Aaron on the... down climb for Tower of Power - V0

When we arrived at Nine Corners temps were perfect, psyche was perfect, and (despite 7 days of sending in the south) skin was good to go. Before I knew it, I was standing in front of my long term project Thorazine - V8.

Setting up for the bump on Thorazine - V8

First go I linked to the bump, and although I fell, I quickly got the crux move in isolation. Soon, I was getting in sequence, and despite many long breaks, I got spat off again and again. At this point both Aaron and Tyler made valiant sends of the incredible problem. I thought I was done, and walked away to go check out the Froggy boulder.

Aaron stretching for the top of Tower of Power

Before the froggy boulder, Aaron ran a lap on Tower of Power - V0. Although it was hard to watch, the shots are pretty sweet. 35 feet of aesthetic climbing later and we were onto the Froggy boulder.

Does not do this beast justice

According to the book, Froggy Style Sit is a V9, after this epic day it received a harsh downgrade to V7. Since I have not done the problem I'm not going to put forth a grade, but keep in mind its original grading. After some serious goes, Ben and Aaron sent, and Tyler got close. Send #2 of the day.

Next, it was on to the Saccharine set to try Instant Yoga - V8, Shapeshifter - V4, and other problems on the awesome boulder. Ben repeated Instant Yoga real fast, and Shapeshifter was sent by everyone.

Around the corner were two problems graded V7 and V6. After flashing both, they recieved a serious downgrade to Even Stevia - V5 and Diamonds are Forever - V3.

Pretty intense

We hiked back to the main set to try Bearded Earnie - V7, and I wanted to try Thorazine one last time before we left. Before I gave the final go, I told everyone that I needed some old school psyche. Within a minute I was miraculously sticking the top sloper, with screams coming from my spotters, and in a strangely surreal act I was on top of what had been my longest project.

Sick.

Aaron rounded off the day with a send of Bearded Earnie. What a day!

-WB

Day 1 in the South

2010-04-04T08:43:00.002-04:00

I'm posting this from raccoon mountain campground, Chattanooga, Tennessee. It's about 65 degrees, sunny, and getting warmer. After the ridiculously long drive down (16 hours), and stay at a Hungry Mother Campground (There is a story behind that name, you don't want to hear it), we arrived at Rocktown, GA at around 1:00.

We immediately got to work at the Sherman Photo roof. Adam cleaned quick with a send of his project last year, Nose Candy - V6. Suddenly, I was stricken down with a nosebleed, no doubt a sign that I had to send the boulder problem day. After some work, I did, as did Ian, Evan, Kyle and Luke.

Evan also made a quick send of Sherman Photo Roof - V7, and made good progress on Brown Hole - V8.

Next it was on to the scoop, the hobbit and Pythagorean theorem. Everyone sent the Scoop in everyway possible, and we split up to try our respective projects. Jess and the girls went to pythag, and the men went to the Hobbit. Aaron flashed the cool problem, and Luke also sent. The problem boils down to a cruxy top-out.

The girls made really good progress on Pythag, as did Kyle.

Finally, we headed down to the beautiful Golden Showers. I was surprised at how good this climb actually is. Perfect sidepulls lead to a crux last move and full value top out that I am most psyched on. Aaron sent, making it six sends in 1 day for him, and I did not. Another day for sure.

I have to go eat some french toast and do something Adam is calling "Initiation", but I'll post more tomorrow.

We're heading to Little Rock City today, a spot that I have way more projects at and I am too pumped to describe.

It's warm.

-WB

Farley

2010-03-29T21:07:00.006-04:00

On Saturday, Ben, Tyler, Aaron and I got up bright and early to venture to the far off and mysterious land of Farley, Mass.

In recent years, Farley has been home to some pretty bad access issues, thankfully the Western Mass Climbers Coalition resolved a lot of them. This is great because Farley is also home to some of the highest quality rock in the Northeast, and one of the best problems in the U.S. Speed of Life - V10.

Tyler on the stand start of Speed of Life - V8 (stand)

After getting lost many times and completely losing trust in technology, we arrived at Farley. The hike in was easy, and soon we were amidst the awesome granite blocks that litter the ledges. We warmed up on The Wave - V6. A very cool problem with a dynamic move at the end, only Aaron sent, and I'm psyched to get back to it.

Next we went over to Terrordactyl - V8. After sussing the beta, Aaron and Ben got close on this 2 move problem, but no sends.

Aaron on the crimpy and weird Terrordactyl - V8

We headed on to the next point of interest... Big - V7. The name describes this problem well, its a beautiful overhanging prow with interesting balance moves to a committing final hop for the top. Oh, and its tall. No one sent, but Aaron got very close, as did Tyler.

After Big, we headed down and began trying the start moves of the incredibly beautiful and impressive Speed of Life. Its a 30 foot block, that maintains a steep 30 - 45 degree angle the entirety of its face. The landing is stepped, so the fall from the top isn't bad. Perfect, big moves between incut crimps leads to a sloping mantel press top-out. Sick.
Maybe some other time.

JP in full send mode (Tongue out) on Tweaky Bird - V7

Finally, we tried Tweaky Bird - V7, a climb we regretted not trying earlier. The moves are great on the problem, starting with powerful bumps up crimpy sidepulls, to a sloping and kinda sketchy lip traverse, to a techy top out. Ben got VERY close, and though we could all do separate parts of the problem solid, we couldn't piece it together.

Ben trying HARD on a bottom up go of Tweaky Bird,
this photo really shows the sketchy tree.

Overall I was really impressed with Farley, the rock quality is stunning and "Exactly like Switzerland" according to Tyler. The climbs are beautiful, hard, and have good movement on solid holds. We'll be making the trip numerous times this summer.

The next day, Tyler, Ryan and I headed up to Moreau in Ryan's beater Mercedes (This point is of importance). We were lured, as always, into the woods at the sight of what looked to be a cliff. We found some cool looking slabs, and a virgin cliff, but nothing too exciting.
Next we headed over to the main area, and realized the extent of the possibility of bouldering at Moreau. The rock quality is good, and there are some really cool features, my favorite being an overhanging prow with some interesting looking moves, and a high and scary arete with refrigerator slapping on slopey edges.
We warmed up on a new piece of rock, Ryan and I both did an interesting high angle slab climb with a committing top. I got the FA and called it Black and White Praying Mantis with Night Vision - V0, after a dream I had.

We got to work, then, on the Pressure Cooker Project. I got a little closer to hitting the sloper, but realized the problem isn't over. In the picture below you can see Ryan trying some different beta.

So far, the crux is reaching the sloping ledge a few feet directly above Ryan's head

We leave for the south Friday, and I'll be sure to fill you guys in on the sends and what not as soon as we get back.

Till then.

Peace.

So this is actually the 99th blog post. Lol.

-WB

Frustration

2010-03-22T15:29:00.004-04:00

Bouldering is punctuated frustration.
Next time someone asks what bouldering is I'll say this: At times, there is a moment of strong, brief, indescribable joy, but more often than not bouldering means hours, days, even years of falling, failing and becoming annoyed and disheartened.

At Nine this past weekend, the only thing that was on my mind (and had been all winter) was a problem called Thorazine - V8, that I had come tantalizingly close on last winter, only to be shut down by freak snow that carpeted the top, and my dreams. I was unhappy, but I had all winter to think about my prize, and when spring came around I would no doubt tick this one off my list.

Spring is here, and an empty box still remains next to Thorazine. While trying moves on the boulder last Saturday I did feel stronger, and I did still think it could go, but I allowed the slightest bit of doubt to creep into my mind, and from that point on my goes got worse and worse. I tried the top-out, something I hadn't done before... and I fell... I couldn't do it... the nail in the coffin.

Spooky sent Thorazine, and I couldn't have been more happy for him, but it's human nature to get a little jealous. He had been just as close as me last winter, if not closer, and it was a really good send for him. Ultimately, I gave up, walked away, but I didn't leave empty handed because I realized something.

Out there, in the middle of the woods on a nearly perfect early spring day, with 2 of my best friends, I realized that the only thing better than succeeding and sending that monster that had haunted my dreams all winter, was being able to walk away without finishing it and still enjoying the rest of the day.

No, I didn't send Thorazine, or anything else of note for that matter, but I climbed some moderates at the cave wall, I got soaked hunting for rock where the guidebook stopped, and I left early, happy with whatever I had just done.

Bouldering is a huge mental test that everyone will fail. It directly reflects and can teach us so much about life. No matter what there will always be struggle and disappointment, and don't ever think you can be "the best". However, the only way to succeed and stay sane is to not take it so seriously. Whether it be climbing or any other sport. We're just a bunch of souped up monkeys playing with nature, and falling off the top-out of some rock with a name that 99% of the world has never heard of is certainly not the end of the world...

... unless you fall off the boulder onto a button that begins a nuclear war with Iran, in which case you shouldn't have been climbing above that button anyway. I mean, who puts a button like that in the woods, or even makes a button like that in the first place?
...but... I digress.

When I get a chance, I'll post a video of Adam on Thorazine and some stuff from Lincoln Woods, as well as whatever footage I get this weekend.

Less than two weeks till the south.

Congrats to Michael Penn for sending is long-long-term project China Beach - 5.14b

Stay happy.

-WB

Nine Corners Tomorrow

2010-03-19T14:08:00.003-04:00

Some cool catz and myself are heading out to Nine Corner's tomorrow for some early Spring sending. The biggest tick on the list currently is Thorazine, the long standing project for Adam and I.

I recently started training again and I actually am feeling a lot stronger. Trust me, I was never into training (mostly because I couldn't get motivated to follow a schedule), but after training for the past few weeks I already feel improvements. There might be something to all this craziness.

Anyway, it looks beautiful. 60 degrees and SUNNAY, humidity at a low as well. Perfect. Perfect, perfect, PERFECT! If anyone wants to meet us out there, do it. I'm sure you'll find us. I don't have my phone, so email me or something.

-WB

Trip to Chatty

2010-03-16T16:19:00.003-04:00

The weekendbouldering crew is heading down to Chattanooga for some good sends and ridiculousness in just a few weeks now. And so, here is the inevitable tick-list.

We'll be heading to 3 different areas:
Little Rock City, Chattanooga
Rocktown, Georgia
Horse Pens 40, Alabama

For each area I have set up a modest and achievable tick-list with climbs ranging from V4 - V8.

Rocktown:

Soap on a Rope - V4
Island of Beautiful Women - V4
The Hobbit - V5
Croc Bloc - V5
Nose Candy - V6
The Helicopter - V6
Sherman Photo Roof - V7
Grand Theft Auto - V7

Horse Pens 40 (Never Been):

Mortal Combat - V4
Bum Boy - V4
Hammerhead - V5
Redneck - V6
Millipede - V6
Mullentino Roof - V7
Great White - V7
The Flow- V7+
Litz Pocket Problem - V8

Little Rock City:

Art of the Vogi - V4
Dragon Lady - V4
Genghis Khan - V5
Shotgun - V6
Diesel Power - V6
Cyclops (sit) - V6
Face in the Crowd - V7
Deception - V7
Instinct - V7
Celestial Mechanics - V7
The Brotherhood - V8

Thoughts? Any additions I should make? Revisions?

In other news, the weather is beautiful, and we will soon start doing after school sessions at Nine Corners, GB, Moreau State Park and the Stables Boulder. GET PSYCHED

-WB

EXPLORATHON 2010

2010-03-15T13:39:00.003-04:00

To reiterate my previous feelings in a more effective and better worded manner, March is an incredibly bothersome and stressful time of the year.

It sucks.

Here is a short quiz in order to determine if you too are suffering from "March Madness" (I am not referring to college basketball either, its a serious disease resulting from the horrible conditions of March)

1. Look outside. Are the only visible colors depressing shades of brown and grey?

2. Go outside. Is it raining?

3. Look down. Are you standing in mud, slush, or brown snow?

4. Are you generally less happy than you normally would be?

5. Is it hard to determine, under the thick layer of caked on mud, between your car and your shoes?

6. Look at the calender, does the month start with M?

7. Does it end in ARCH?

If you answered 3 or more of these questions with YES. God help you.

On a lighter note, EXPLORATHON 2010 took place yesterday. The forecast was typical March, but we were anxious to get out. Tyler, Aaron, Ryan, Kirby and I headed out to Snowy Mountain to explore the hueco filled wonderhill. The snow was deep, and we were quickly assaulted with the steady falling of ice pellets, but we trudged on and were rewarded with a few quality looking boulders.

More exploration will be required this summer. After becoming thoroughly soaked at snowy, Tyler, Ryan and I decided to check out a spot by queensbury, but to no avail. Finally we headed to Moreau State Park to check out a boulder Tyler had found. It was wet, but the lines on it look good, and very difficult.

We headed to another boulder at Moreau and were not disappointed. The boulder contained a really cool looking line out a low roof, finishing on a technical slab. After spending a good time cleaning, it became clear the line had been tried, but I doubt it has been done. We gave goes and figured out a super technical, body tension filled, burly as HELL sequence. We didn't send, but it is such a cool line, and I can't wait to get back.

I would have to say this day was a success. I love to explore, and especially now, in our darkest of Months, it seems like the best option. I like established stuff, but something about finding that line, cleaning it and sending is so much more rewarding. Climbing continues to inspire, amaze, anger, disappoint and tease me, but oh, how I love it so.

What do you guys like? Exploring or climbing established lines? Comment and share your thoughts. Also March sucks.

Before we left, we got the spraydown on some ELBAM's, we were told that if we just got some more purchase we could piss all over it.

-WB

Happy Blogday!

2010-03-10T12:24:00.002-05:00

A year ago, this wonderful blog started with a modest post entitled "Blogs Up".

And so from now on I declare March 9th BLOG DAY!

This new holiday is competing with Barbie Doll Day, No Smoking Day and Panic Day (This one is my favorite)

So, if you like to cover all the bases simply play panic about your Barbie Dolls while reading Weekend Bouldering!!!

-WB

Heat

2010-03-07T09:26:00.002-05:00

Every single weather report I looked at said the same thing.

Beautiful weekend coming up!
High 40's and sunny!
Finally a nice weekend!

No doubt I was psyched. I would have been more psyched if I wasn't hearing these wonderful reports lying in bed with a fever and sore throat feeling like death. My goal was no longer to get better, it was to get better by Saturday.

We decided on Lincoln Woods because it hadn't gotten any rain and the weather there looked great. High 40's to 50's and sunny. On the ride down, we watched as the temperature reading above the dashboard read 35... 37... 39... 40... 42... 45... and by then we were parked amongst many cars at Lincoln Woods.

I ditched my down jacket and immersed myself in the incredible excitement for the comfortable weather. I could finally focus on climbing and not on the cold that had been eating away at my happiness the past long, cold winter months.

We started our day at the Tombstone boulder. After examining the lines, we warmed up on a V4 called the Tombstone Nose. It looked easy enough, a short dynamic move out a small roof and then execute the technical top-out. We all dispatched accordingly.

Next we began work on The Tombstone Traverse - V6, a very cool looking piece of rock that worked its way through slopers, sidepulls, gastons and crimps to the same technical finish as the V4. On my first go, I realized something strange... my fingers were sweating... within no time my feet were on the ground and my hands were in the chalkbag. I had greased off, a sensation so foreign I was in disbelief. After much work, Aaron and Adam sent, and on my last go I sent too. Good start to the day.

As we packed up to move on to another area, Paul Robinson pulled up with some locals and began scoping out the V11 dyno on the boulder. It's weird when you meet a really strong and famous climber and then realize he is no different from you. He's just out playing in the woods.

Next we went over to the Iron Cross Area. After quickly dispatching Iron Cross - V4, we moved on down the hill to The Cave. This slightly overhung wall has many lines (and even more eliminates) that are note worthy. We all began giving goes at the different problems, and socializing with the locals. Aaron got really close on Clutch - V8, but couldn't stick the move right after the crux! Next time for sure.

We finally ended our day at Try Again. Adam and I began working on Loadies Zen - V6. This really cool problem ends in a signature jump. After many goes, Adam managed to send this rig doing the "jump" super static. He's getting strong.

I'll put up a video later of the sends.

This warm weather is reminding me the Spring is just around the corner, or maybe its right in front of us, point is I am psyched. Dack season is fast approaching and I couldn't be happier.

Not to mention the trip down to Chattanooga is in 3 weeks.

-WB

Gnarnia and Climb for a Cause

2010-02-28T12:02:00.003-05:00

Despite the snow, Ben, Spook, Aaron, Tyler and I went up North for a little exploring and to show Ben and Tyler Gnarnia. We took a back road that ran behind the mountain Gnarnia is on to check out a spot I had seen in Google Maps -> Terrain. We were discouraged by posted signs, but encouraged by a seasonal use road that seemed to run directly under the spot I was interested in, guess it'll have to wait for the Spring.

At Gnarnia, the psych level went up quickly as Ben (the most Anti-Exploring member of our crew) scoped out the many lines on the 1st boulder. Obviously it was too snowy to climb, but the number of possible lines on that boulder is obvious.

We continued to show Gnarnia to our friends, and with every boulder, psych grew. We reached the Gnarwhal, a huge, 25 foot, 30 degree wall with distinct, hard lines on it, and began discussing how to maybe build a platform to cover the terrifying talus below the right end of the wall. Next, we cleaned off the bottoms of the problems, as well as the tops (as much as we could) and began scoping out the sequences.

Much of the interest was on the right end, where a rail of sloping crimps leads to a dynamic move and sloping ledges to the top. We tried to unlock the bottom sequence, but it will no doubt be very hard (V10+), the stand start however is a bit less intimidating and might be somewhere in the V7 - V9 spectrum.

While we were still interested in the Gnarwhal, Aaron rapped down off the top of his little gem. A 30 foot tall zig-zag crack up a slightly overhung wall, with a landing that slopes away slightly, he says it may be V5 due to the lack of holds near the top, we will have to wait and see.

Let it be known that not EVERYTHING at Gnarnia is highball. Just that the Gnarwhal is super impressive and Aaron likes highballs, so thats where we went. The area probably has around 10 - 15 climbable boulders (maybe more) each with at least a few lines. The actual worth of this area will be seen in the spring, when FA's can start to happen.

Before heading home, we stopped in for Climb for a Cause at Rocksport, a fundraiser for Sanfilippo's Disorder. We were impressed by the number of people that came, and the new problems the gym had set up. It was a fun time and they have apparently raised over $1000 towards research for the disease. Sweet.

In other news, snow sucks, that is all.
-WB

Broken Holds, Broken Hearts

2010-02-23T20:44:00.005-05:00

This is all I have to say:

As you can clearly see the uber-classic Lynn Hill's Traverse - V8, has broken. As discussed on Bassforyourface, this is just another casualty in a streak of hold breakage on classic problems. Dreamtime, Karma, Witness the Fitness, Sketches of Pain, hide your favorite climb because no boulder is safe!

But on a serious note, this is a huge loss to the Carriage Road, and the classic climb will no doubt be a lot harder without the preciously gigantic starting jug which seemed incredibly solid.

This brings me to another topic, hold chipping. The phenomenon of hold chipping is present at many of our local crags, the classic Slot Machine - V5 at McKenzie Pond has its signature "slot" chipped in, Caressing the Manniquins Leg - V3 at Nine Corners has a chipped hold as well.

I can see the positive side, both problems are incredibly fun and because of their... modifications... seem almost natural. But the cons are obvious, is the destruction of the rock really necessary for our enjoyment? Humans have a funny habit of modifying natural things to their liking, when perhaps they should have just been left alone.

I've climbed the problems listed above, and others, and I loved them, but I don't know if it's the right thing to do. Could these lines have gone without chipping? Probably. So why chip them? Why change the rock just to make things easier instead of rising up to the challenge? To me, it seems like cheating.

-WB

Newz

2010-02-22T15:28:00.005-05:00

FIRST OF ALL THE WEATHER IS LOOKING LIKE THIS:

...get psyched.

So... the guidebook.

As some of you know, my friends and I are working towards producing an ADIRONDACK BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK! It's going to take a while, and a lot of things have to happen, but whatever is made will be a labor of love and a product of the adk bouldering community.

I realize bouldering is included in the ADK ROCK book, but there is so much more than is listed in that book, not to mention that that book is a very large expense for someone who only intends to boulder in the dacks.

I'm always open to ideas, so if you have any COMMENT!

Places we plan on including:
- McKenzie Pond
- Snowy Mtn. Boulders
- Nine Corners
- Boulderwoods
- Ensign Pond (SEE adkbouldering.blogspot.com)
- Flatrock (here)
- Gnarnia
- Gore Mtn. Boulders (NEEDS MUCH MORE DEVELOPMENT)
- Stables Boulder
- Potash Boulder

And we're going to be considering a few others and also exploring a few spots.

If you have any suggestions, information on the areas above, have some knowledge of producing a guidebook or just want to help out PLEASE email me:

weekendbouldering@gmail.com

MORE
NEWZ

I've heard rumors that a robot has recently hacked into blogger and began posting under the name... robot. Check out his blog at: RobotClimbing

ALSO were working out some more fun stuff for climbing fun times good and all nice stuff.
MORONTHATLATOR

It's almost March, which means it's almost March 21st, which means its almost Spring.
YEAAAA

-WB

Second Day On

2010-02-15T16:34:00.007-05:00

As I left the Gunks Saturday (more on that later) I talked to Tyler.

Tyler was planning on leaving for Florida, but his flight was cancelled, and he offered to go climbing Sunday. Mind you, this is after one of the more brutal Gunks days I have had in a while, and my tips were nice and red.

Of course, in the most appropriate weekendbouldering fashion, I said yes. After a night of finding homemade remedies to my fingertip pain (I settled on Aloe leaves my mom had conveniently been growing... kinda weird actually). I headed out to good 'ol Great Barrington for a day of sending.

We started at the probe and warmed up on the crimpy traverse featured in Gravity Sucks and a V2 arete thing. After warming up we started work on The Probe - V9. Tyler and I made quick progress, and we both reached a highpoint crux of matching the namesake hold. Sick problem that I want to come back to.

JP trying to stick the slopey name-sake hold on The Probe - V9

We worked on a highball crack near the probe that probably goes at like V3, but it was fun and made for good pictures:

Next, we made our way to the Spack boulder to work on Tyler's proj, The Bump. He worked it for a while, but was unable to send, and the rock was cold. So we moved on up to the Snooze Button. While Aaron worked Kim Novak - V8, Tyler and I went and explored. We found stuff, GOOD, undone stuff, but it's a secret.

We came back from exploring to find Aaron at Fen Fen - V7. After working Fen Fen for a while, Tyler and Aaron started to work Echo - V9. They made some good progress and are psyched to get back to this testy piece of stone. Finally we ended the day at Speed boulder, and then moved on to Azteca for some delicious burritos.

Also, the guidebook secret will be revealed soon.

-WB

SHUPER SHECRET GUYSH

2010-02-14T08:20:00.002-05:00

Okay, so I gots an assignment for you that will aid in... well we can talk about that later.

I need you to tell me in the comments:

A. Your favorite guidebook, why it was so awesome.
B. Something you wish there was in guidebooks
C. Something you hate about guidebooks

That is all,
-WB

Cold Winter Dayz

2010-02-07T16:15:00.006-05:00

Aaron on Ricans and White-Boys - V7

The Gunks, sometimes it can be a winter sanctuary, the sun-shining, open air and exposed rock of the wonderfully warm Carraige Path. Other times it can be a harsh, windy ice box of death and sadness and frozen extremities. The past few visits it has been the latter...

BUT DESPITE the cold weather we've been having lately, the psych level has not gone down and the crew has been hittin' up old projects on the road for quite some time now. A week ago Tyler (the new blog photog), Ryan (From Night Bouldering at Nine) and I hit up the road on the promising looking sunny Sunday.

Ryan thrutching on a V2 dyno

Although it was cold, the sun helped tremendously, and the wind factor was minimal. Once again, as usual, we stopped at Black Boulder after I stated we "would not stop at black boulder" several times on the ride down. Fortunately our visit paid off, on my second go I stuck the personal crux sloper and fell on the top out. A few goes later I was on top of the boulder screaming "I AM THE MASTER OF MY OWN DESTINY!!!" (Points if you can tell me what thats from).

Finally.

Ryan throwing the key heel on Andrew's Boulder Problem - V4

Shortly after we were at the next set of projects. Tyler's long standing nemesis The Buddha - V7 had rendered him injured on his last visit and has been a personal battle ever since. Today, after developing new beta followed by new new newer beta, Tyler found himself at a highpoint. Effort increased, screaming commenced (on his part and ours) and a group of terrified walkers began to speed up their stride as they walked past the screaming man halfway up the boulder.

It was epic

JP on Boxcar Traverse - V4

Next it was on to the Following cave, a spot Tyler hadn't seen yet. He was psyched on the awesome looking wall, and after a few quick goes we decided it would have to wait for another day.

We worked some other stuff, but were way too tired and cold, so we called it a day. A good day though.

DAY 2

Yesterday, Tyler, Aaron, Spook, Ben, Kyle and I headed to the road again.

It was cold.
Really cold.
And windy.
:[

We started our day at boxcar, Spook has put a couple days on this ultra-classic V8 arete, and thought today was the send. After falling from the sloper numerous times, and reaching a new highpoint just inches from the lip, he walked away without a send. Next time.

Ben and Aaron went up to Venus and had surprisingly good work on the testy V11. SICK.

The rest of us went to the Following, a developing nemesis of mind with a last move sticking point that I have yet to overcome. I have the entire problem on the lock down, but the move to the pebbly gaston ledge keeps shutting me down! Kyle came up with some cool beta that skips the crimpy pinch in the middle of the problem, but was also unable to send.

GRRRAAGRGAHSREARFASKS I hate bouldering.

Aaron setting up on Andrew's Roof - V9

We finished up the day at Andrew's Roof. Where Aaron gave goes at the scary Andrew's Roof - V9, which features and insane looking reach back with the left hand, pushing your whole body onto the huge roof. From there you sag out and catch an okay left hand ledge over the lip, and control a ridiculous swing and try not to fall off the carraige path. Cool.

Aaron stretching on Andrews Roof - V9

PHOTOS BY: Tyler Hogan

Every day is a little closer to Spring.
A little closer.

-WB

Email Update

2010-02-02T16:28:00.000-05:00

Check it, if you want to get instant notification everytime I update the blog, I can put you on the email list and Blogger will send you a message each time the blog gets updated! Comment if you want me to add you to the mailing list.

Please note the hit counter

2010-02-02T08:39:00.002-05:00

1000+ page views in under two and a half weeks. Good work people.

News and such:

I know the posting level has been kinda low lately, but I promise I'll be hitting you with new stuff soon. I'm psyched to have the incredible photographic skillz of Tyler for posts to come, and I may even have a video somewhere in there.

Ben is living close to home instead of the far away land of New Paltz now and the home wall circuit is in full affect. Spring is just around the corner people, and this little 'ol blog is gonna go places.

PLEASE! Don't forget our "Sick Pics" thing is still good to go! Just email your best pictures to weekendbouldering@gmail.com.

Weather:

I feel that Mother Nature heard my incredibly harsh rant a few posts back, and has let up a lil. It's been cold, but not snowy, and that's how we like it.

This weekend is a toss-up between Gunks, GB and Lincoln. Weather is similar all around, but Lincoln is a little colder (maybe snowy-er) and windier than GB and the Gunks. I'LL LET YOU DECIDE!!!

Another thing I want you to decide is weather or not I should spend my money on a still camera, video camera or organic crash pad. I'm leaning towards the still camera, but I... don't know. PLEASE DISCUSS!

-WB

Climb For a Cause

2010-01-28T22:27:00.004-05:00

It warms my little heart to see this happening.

According to the RockSport Facebook Group:

"Rocksport climbing gym in Queensbury, NY is holding the first Climb for a Cause on Feb 27th, 2010.

The event is for funding for Sanfilippo Syndrome, a rare genetic disease. As of now, this tragic disease has NO TREATMENT, NO CURE, AND NO FUNDING. By helping us, we CAN make a difference.

For only $10 you can sign up for a session in Dr.D's office or with Shannon Assman or Corinn Crawford. All proceeds will be going to the Team Sanfilippo Syndrome Foundation. So, come try something new, have fun, while changing the life of someone for the better!

Sessions will be at these times:
12-2
2-4
4-6
6-8
8-10"

Listen guys, I know you may have other things going on, and this might not be at the top of your priorities. Hell, there may be a lot of things keeping you from doing this, but I like to think we've got a pretty good climbing community here, and as a community we need to come together and do more stuff like this.

A lot of good can come out of a lot of heart and a little money, so do your part and help out at the fundraiser.

See you when it's warmer.
-WB

Headin to Gnarnia

2010-01-26T18:13:00.002-05:00

Mhmm. Stuff of dreams my friends.

In a sort of sneak peek at the cool boulders out Gnarny-Way, a couple people and I are heading to Gnarnia this Thursday to scope out some more lines, explore a little more, bushwhack and have a grand 'ol time in those magical woods.

So I'm extending this to you my loyal readers who rarely comment. ( unhappy face )

All those who wanna come say AYE! and we can work something out!

-WB

I want to do...

2010-01-26T10:20:00.001-05:00

...This:

Tennessee Thong - V7, LRC

Spring at the Road

2010-01-25T16:05:00.004-05:00

JP on Gill Pinch Roof - V4

Ah, Spring. Don't go to get your eyes checked out quite yet, you did read that right. I said Spring. Spring. Honestly I feel shocked just typing it. I mean, it is January right? Snowy, cold, frostbite and all that jazz January RIGHT? Then why is it 55 degrees outside and raining as I am writing this.

Listen. I know you're getting pissed off with all those hummers, factory farms, logging and water pollution, but come on Mother Nature! If you're going to make it warm, keep it at a nice 50-60 degrees and for god sakes quit with all the dampness. You're already famous for your... habits... here in the Northeast, I think we deserve a break. Hell, I'll ride my bike to and from school, replace all the lights in my house with candles and even turn off the water when I brush my teeth, but only if you turn off that big faucet in the sky of yours while you brush yours.

But, I digress. Back to the sick Spring day at the Gunks we had Saturday.

What started out as just Adam, Kyle, Kyle's son and I on what we hoped would be the best gunks day ever turned out to be Adam, Murph, Mira, Sarah Shaw, Some other guy, Tyler and Aaron putting way to many goes on Black Boulder. A problem I am petitioning to change its name to Time Wasting Piece of Annoying Shit that You Shouldn't Climb Regardless of What That Guy Who Came Here Once Told You - V5 (TWPOASTYSCROWTGWCHOTY for short)

Okay so that's a little bit hyperbolic of me, it was a really nice day and there was some sending and a good deal of progress. We started out the day on the classic Gill problems, all of which we hadn't been able to do. One of the problems, Gill Pinch Roof - V4 was probably my first ever project, and I hadn't been able to get back to it.

JP Swinging on Gill Pinch Roof - V4

Adam started off with an incredibly static send of the CRAZAY problem: Gill Egg - V4... BAW$E. He then dispatched The Gill Crack - V4, another micro-project of his. After numerous goes and a fair deal of frustration, I unlocked and sent Gill Pinch Roof, SO PSYCHED. Adam and the rest of the pack gave goes at Ricans and White Boys - V7, a problem that starts as Gill Pinch but continues up in a dynamic, pinchy, tall fight for the top. Murph got the repeat, but no one else could nab this prize.

Aaron on the start moves of Art of Nothing - V8

We then moved on to TWPOASTYSCROWTGWCHOTY and I gave numerous goes and entered what I am calling the "Black Boulder Death Cycle of Frustration and Death and Sadness". FIRST, I reluctantly get on the problem, promising only a few goes. Next, I get closer than ever before to sticking that STUPID SLOPER and say "Hey, I think I can do this today! OMG I CAN DO THIS LOL!" Lamb to the slaughter man, lamb to the freaking slaughter. Next, I get shut down
and go cry and hate myself for the rest of the day.

Aaron again on Art of Nothing

Fortunately, I know had the supa cool Lynn Hill Traverse - V8 to play on. The beta is sick and crazy for such a simple looking piece of stone. This problem is cool because it isn't completely about the holds or about the movement, but more about the route finding. How do I use these seemingly random holds in order. Hmm? I couldn't send, but I am intrigued.

Finally we moved down to Buddha to meet up with Kyle, then kept walking towards Adam's hope for the day: Boxcar... Spooky came SOOOOOOOO close to nabbing this fine piece of stone, but fell on the last move and couldn't get back to that position in the next few tries he gave. Such good progress though.

On our way back we found out Kyle sent Buddha! SO GOOD. Good send Kyle, dang you're getting strong. Before we left we gave a few goes at Jackson Pollock - V8, no send though.

I'll post a video of Gill Egg and some others later.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF TYLER HOGAN

Happy Spring.
-WB

Lincoln Woodz

2010-01-21T16:32:00.005-05:00

While the snow, cold and sometimes rain ravaged the upper parts of NY, our crew got in two sick days out in the slightly south, warm and sunny Lincoln Woods.

On our first trip, Kyle, Spooky and I were new to the woods and were psyched to get on them stones and see what all the hype was about. All that hype is DEFINITELY about something.

JP on Straight Again - V7

We warmed up at the Try Again boulder, first on a supa cool V2 and then on a V5 traverse. Adam sent the traverse, and Kyle got pretty dang close. After giving a few goes at Try Again - V5 and Straight Again - V7, we moved on to the next stop on our tour of the woods.

The day seemed to waste away fairly quickly, and we were losing sunlight fast, so we made our way over to what we hoped was the main attraction at the woods: The Pond Cave Boulder.

Kyle on a Lincoln Woods hyper-classic, Leap Frog - V7

Loaded with SICK lines and classic moves, the pond cave was a treat that we could only enjoy for a short time before being forced out by the fading sunlight. We did get some good burns in on The Pond Cave Traverse - V4, and more importantly Who Needs Hueco - V8, a problem we were pumped to get back to.

DAY 2

Spooky Slapping for Sick Slopers on Heart of Glass - V4

Wah-Hurd. Basically, we were lured to Lincoln once again with hopes of warm weather and fine stone in our hearts. This time, Ben and Luke tagged along for their first visit to the Woods. This time, we warmed up at the Heart boulder, and were psyched on giving goes on Heart of Glass - v4

Kyle getting SERIOUS on Heart of Glass - V4

After struggling for a while, we got some new beta from some locals and were all able to wrestle this beastly, fun problem.

Next, we once again headed for Pond Cave, to give some more goes at Who Needs Hueco with some new beta courtesy of the interwebs.

OH NO! Water was seeping out of cracks all over Who Needs Hueco! What are we to do!? Luckily for us, I happen to have a Masters in Aquatic Engineering, and with the help of my friends quickly dispatched the hydration havoc. A rag here, some chalk blocks there and a sick-ass tape job left the problem mostly dry and good to go.

AQUATIC ENGINEERING

With new beta in hand, and our water issues solved, we made quick and dramatic progress on the sick line, please note the incredible left hand feature-pinch-awesomeness in the pictures below. So. Good.

Sick right hand pinch. Luke on Who Needs Hueco - V8

After numerous goes, KYLE SENT. Well, he couldn't top out, but for a snowy wet day I give him two thumbs up on the sickness scale. Good work and proud send buddy. CHECK OUT THE VIDEO HERE (Stop watching at 50 seconds for full effect)

As the sunlight faded, we went over to the Yosemite Boulder and put in a little work on Midnight Lichen - V8, Luke sent, sick, and the day came to a close.

Overall, I would definitely head back here sometime soon, there is a world of problems we didn't get to try, but I am so game.

-WB

NEW VIDEO :D

2010-01-20T20:09:00.002-05:00

Ben and Friends over in ARKANSAS crushin' all dem HCR CLASSICS

Video Courtesy of Maya Alfonso on Vimeo

HCR Classics 2009 from Maya Alfonso on Vimeo.

Eh. Update

2010-01-14T21:13:00.002-05:00

I know I know it's been a while, but I'm gonna bring a camera to Lincoln woods tomorrow so get psyched for some videos from both the woods AND Arkansas. SICK.

We hit up the woods last weekend and it was cold n' snowy, but we settled in at Pond Cave Boulder and hopped on some of the sickness there. More on that tomorrow.

Now it's back to not training and watching more lost.

Speaking of lost.

There has got to be some SICK climbing on that damn island... or islands :O
Plus the added danger of some crazy black smoke monster coming to attack you or the hostiles coming to abduct you adds to the fun! For an island with all this crazy magic fate stuff, there better be some crazy magic routes and boulders too. Idk. I'm pretty psyched on the development there. Maybe we can go in the spring? Yes?

I have decided I hate winter forever.
-WB

Cold Day in the Gunks

2010-01-05T11:10:00.003-05:00

After a few days up North skiing, and a few weeks off the rock, I was dying to get back out. Although the weather report looked grim, with temperatures dropping as often as the snow, I texted Spook with desperate want to get out there.

We decided to get our first wintry day in the Gunks, and hit up some projects we had left on our ticks. Upon stepping out of the car, we were hit by crazy gusts of wind that cut through our layers and made us a tad uneasy about the climbing ahead. Fortunately, the wind was only in the pass and the rest of the trapps were nice and warm, baking in the midday sun.

We began at Black Boulder - V5. I had worked this problem a lot since my first outing to the Gunks and something about this strange and fun piece of rock has shut me down ever since. Today was not any different. Adam and I quickly lost our psyche and went on down the road.

Next stop: The Following - V6. Adam sent this sick problem on our last trip to the gunks and I had made some excellent progress. We came up with some creative pad placements to compensate for the lack thereof, but the sketch factor was high! I've got the bottom locked down, but the crux move to a huge textured gaston has yet to go.

Next we hit up Marrakesh Express - V6, a long standing project of Spooky's. After a couple goes he stuck the crazy ninja cross over, hiked the high foot and began the long traverse to the top. Since we hadn't brushed it off, Adam jumped off before the finish. SICK PROGRESS!!!

Finally we went to Near Trapps to work The Pearl - V8. Notorious among our crew for being soft for the grade, and four our single arete beta that is supposedly harder, the pearl had yet to go for me. I came SUPER close, but need to stick the little hop to the big, good sloper. Should clean it up next time.

ANYWAYS.

Ben is crrruussshhing sending v10's second time and flashing mad moderates over in Arkansas. Yeah that's right, Arkansas, that place in those Dosage movies with all the sickness and what not. He's coming back this week with a bunch of videos for teh blog. So get psyched people.

Yeah. Well. Bye.

-WB

Gnarnia

2009-12-28T20:34:00.004-05:00

Somewhere in the Adirondacks...

...Coming to a climber like you this spring

-WB

Lost City

2009-12-27T20:57:00.005-05:00

"Dude when winter comes I'm gonna be out all the time crushing shit" Who hasn't said those words. Then winter comes..... You get busy, it snows, and that cold winter breeze. Almost January and I can count the times I have been out on one hand. But decent weather and a renewed psyche level has brought me to the Gunks a couple days as of late. Even a night session at fifteen degrees seemed like a good idea. So the thirst is back, once you taste a little you need more. Here's a quick video of a day at lost city middle. Typical shitty video, first problem is Harmonic tremors v9, second one is Alcoholocaust v10. Good day for all especially Icey cleaning up on a couple pestering demons. Left out the background audio so you could listen to Iceys primal screams.

FYI : Lost city is LOADED with dope problems !

Hard Guy Wall

2009-12-22T19:41:00.002-05:00

Quick Video from the steepest wall in the area. No tape, no matching, no crimping. Just some of the hardest problems in the Capital region. Robot reigns supreme in these parts diabolically working to become part man part machine. This is a hard link up problem of three routes. 856

THERES A HIT COUNTER AT THE BOTTOM

2009-12-20T19:37:00.002-05:00

WOO!!! SCROLL DOWN TO SEE THE AMAZING HIT COUNTER.

Feast your eyes on the incredible display of shiny digital numbers. Gaze in awe at the stylish red glow they emit.

Yes, while it may only be a little hit counter now... just a few digits... it will someday grow into an incredible number... hundreds? thousands? MILLIONS?!

In other news no climbing has been going on at all.

Well, that's not entirely true... a few people went to G.B. yesterday. Adam sent The Bump - V8 (HELL YEAH!) and Aaron made an impressive assent of Snooze Button the second person in our group to nab this tasty problem. Oh... I never made a post about the day snooze went... eh it'll have to wait for the video.

Here is a picture completely unrelated to the following two problems:

Adam grabbin' a gnarly heel hook on the freezing rock of Twisted Steel - V8.

Ah, yes it's the holiday season once more, and while no one submited photos to my contest (>:[) and Murph never did post any media (even though I made him an author) I can't help but be happy! It's been a good year. I can say that a lot of struggle, training, failures and successes have led to incredible progress this year.

Even with the loss of Electric City we trudged on had a summer filled with days at McKenzie, Nine, G.B. and Snowy. We made break-through's, had some rough patches and drempt of the next days out on the rock.

Some went, some joined, some have been here all along, and I feel like what started out as a few guys in the gym has really, truly turned into a sick band of climbers.

You guys know who I am talking to, and I hope all those folks from the Upstate out there representin' and crushin' should feel pretty good too. Good work guys. And to anyone else out there reading this blog...

Keep crushing,
sending,
training,
and doing what you love
because you love what you do.

Happy Christmas
Merry Hannukah
Jolly Kwanza
And have a good Festivus
And if you aren't celebrating and just climbing that's cool too...

Anyone down for climbing Christmas Eve Day in the Gunks???
Should be a good time.
K Bai.

-WB

Climbing Forecast - 12/16/09

2009-12-15T15:55:00.004-05:00

So... I'm not gonna be here Saturday, my ski team is having its first on snow practice and I should probably go...

Anyways, I know most of you can't go out on Sundays, but if you can please text me at 5189441080... I really want to take advantage of the nice weather this weekend, the gunks are PRIME for climbing right now and yeah. I like to climb rocks.

AREA OVERVIEW:

Speaking of prime conditions, if you are headed to the Gunks this weekend, you're in for clear skies all weekend with cooler temps in the lower 30's. Perfect for sending.

Similarly, G.B. might be good to go too, with cooler temps though... and GB can be a hassle to get to in the snow.

Anything up North is looking cold this weekend... like... 10 degrees or less, so unless your fine with numb extremities than I would not suggest planning any trips to Nine Corners.

COMPS:

I don't know of any... but maybe there are some going on...?

PRIME AREA OF THE WEEK:

All year we've been waiting to climb at the road without the hefty price-tag it usually comes with. However, with the new fallen snow, the rangers have fled the Trapps leaving us cheap winter boulderers to fend for ourselves on the fast drying, sun-drenched rock of the Gunks.

So get out there, its gonna be a nice weekend for climbing, and I know you've still got some projects there. I know.

-WB

Phrases that make me want to quit climbing

2009-12-14T19:31:00.004-05:00

You all know what I mean, almost everytime I go outside, climb in the gym or try to explain to someone what I do on my weekends (an impossible task I have come to find) the same questions and phrases always pop-up.

1. Oh, so is it like a speed thing?
What a classic line, after you tell someone you rock climb, it inevitably leads to how you compete, which is a taboo question in itself! What if I don't compete? At that point whoever I was talking to immediately loses interest and I feel all the more disconnected from the rest of the world. Like most people don't understand the point of doing something for fun, everything is a competition... always. Just look at things like Iron Chef, or American Idol. Even if you do compete, the question that always follows is how you win... is it a speed thing? who can get to the top first? At this point I apply a very heart-felt face-palm and call it a day. Yes, its a speed thing, yes, you're right, you did go to the gym and made it to the top of the hard wall, yes, you probably are a natural at rock climbing.

2. Wow, he looks like a monkey/spiderman or something?
Dammit guys the novelty wore off the first ten times this awful grouping of words entered my ears. I mean, I guess I can't be too angry, it is a complement, but I almost take it as an insult! Climbing is something I spend countless hours investing a large majority of my life into, and to have it reduced to such childish similes like this makes me feel... annoyed. So, thank you, sir or madam for comparing me to either something that flings its poo around for funzies or a fictional comic book character who didn't even climb that much... he just slung a bunch of freaking webs. On a side note, that monkey bears a striking resemblance to your average climber...

Nice shoes.

3. So what are those square things for anyway?
Yup, they are for sleeping on.
Yup, they're just big backpacks.
If any of you have ever had the "blessing" of having this asked of you then you know lying is the easiest way out. Don't even DREAM of trying to explain the usage of the seemingly incredibly advanced piece of rectangular technology strapped to your back because you won't be able to. In the end you will have just made things awkward for both you and your new friend and both your days will be a little more crappy. My advice? My friend Luke and I decided on the perfect answer for this question: They are for killing cats.
They don't ask any more questions after that one.

4. What is this... bold ... err ... ing?
When this question is asked, I find it best to walk away.

Lets face it, until climbing gets nestled between your favorite monday night sport shows, we are forever doomed with having to face the fact that no one gets us. I mean, to put it in perspective we enjoy putting ourselves into uncomfortable harnesses and shoes, putting ourselves through seconds, minutes, hours, days even of sometimes excruciating pain, in the most extreme conditions, and for what goal? I don't think anyone can understand why until they try it themselves. So until then, yeah, its a speed thing, yeah, I plan on sleeping in this large piece of foam I am carrying, yup, I am exactly like a monkey, and yes, oh god yes my legs/arms/ankles/feet are deformed and scraped up because I fell off my bike.

I am sure you guys know countless others, infact post your most hated phrase or question in the comments.

-WB

1st Annual Photo Contest!

2009-12-10T18:59:00.004-05:00

Tis the season everyone.

That's right whatever holiday you celebrate here is a chance to get some more climbing garb
(no such thing as too much)

I am proposing an idea I had way back in November... but didn't tell anyone about.
Weekend Bouldering is about to hold its FIRST ANNUAL HOLIDAY PHOTO CONTEST!!!!

Just submit you're photos to WeekendBouldering@gmail.com or post them in the fan photos on the facebook page with the following information:

Photographer:
Climber:
Problem/Route:
Location:

Prizes will be awarded to first, second and third place winners!

For the contest to work, I need to acquire a large deal of photos from a large deal of people, and so if I do not recieve submissions from more than 3 people, the contest is not gonna work! Also, for now I am only allowing a max of 3 pictures per person, if I don't get that many that could change.

So go on, browse those pictures of yours (I know you've got tons) and email them or post them up and get in the holiday spirit!

-WB

Nine Corners and the Prison Boulder

2009-12-08T16:30:00.004-05:00

Despite iffy weather forecasts and a lot of last minute destination changes, a pretty big crew consisting of Michael, Murph, a few guys from AIR, Spook, Ben, Kyle and myself headed out to a place I had never been before... the prison boulder.

Also known as the Caroga Lake Boulder, the prison boulder is a massive piece of rock that sits only a few yards in from the road to Nine Corners. Its face is tall, and slightly overhung and hosts a good deal of problems from V0 to V11. The problems are powerful in nature, long and a little scary. Sounds good to me.

We started off on a problem on the left side of the boulder called Conjugal Visit - V3, it's big, powerful and pretty dang cool. A large deal of us sent and managed to stay warm on the wintry day.

Murph, Ben and Michael gave some solid goes at the signature route on the boulder Pot of Gold - V11. Murph sent it a while back, but its been unrepeated since.

Michael, Spook, Kyle, Ben and I rolled on out to Nine Corners to put some work in on Thorazine - V8 and Over-Burdened - V11. Spook and I made excellent progress on Thorazine, linking all the way to the last move, and Michael managed to move through the crux on the V11, also unrepeated. He didn't send, and neither did Spook and I, but we both made awesome progress.

Ben figured out some INCREDIBLY POWERFULLY HARD BETA that he somehow could almost sort of do. Before we could finish up our respective problems, the flakes started falling... and then flurrying... and then all out snowing, the top got wet, the air got cold, and after a trechourously fun walk out of the woods, we were in the car jamming to christmas music and kazookeylele final countdown covers.

It was a pretty good day, and I hope we can get back before Winter really sets in.

Also, it was a fairly successful SWEET SHOTS round... fairly... I got a reply from Josh, one of the guys we climbed with, but no one else submitted their pictures. COME ON GUYS!

Srsly, send yo pics to weekendbouldering@gmail.com

Also, Murph is now an official author of the blog! WOO!

Also, Christmas is in like 16 days or something.

Also, I am calling a vote on the Facebook Page and here, you are allowed to vote twice...

NINE CORNERS?
GREAT BARRINGTON?
DARK HORSE COMP THING?
Argue, Discuss, Opinionate

-WB

Info on Sweet Shots

2009-12-05T17:54:00.002-05:00

HERE'S THE DEAL!

As you can probably tell, this blog DESPERATELY needs some more media.

And I'm sure you all want your sick pics and vids to get recognized by fellow climbers.

So I am proposing something I am calling "Sweet Shots"... Let's say you go out climbin' and you get a ton of sick pictures, are you just gonna let em' sit on your hard drive? Hell nah! You're going to send them, along with problem name, climber name and any other info to

weekendbouldering@gmail.com

and I'll post the best up on the blog under a special section called "Sweet Shots".

But JP, what about videos!?! If you can figure out a way to get your videos to me (willhostforfood.com, get a youtube/vimeo account) I'll be happy to post them up... but you'll need to email me as to where I can find said video.

I know there is some sick media out there, and I would love to post it up here on WeekendBouldering.

-WB

The Turkey Day Miracle

2009-11-28T12:34:00.002-05:00

There was no doubt in my mind.

Countless weather stations were reporting 80%, 90%, 100% chance of rain at Crane Mountain on the Friday after Thanksgiving, but for some reason I still wanted to go outside. Even I was beginning to question my sanity.

I found a ride with Aaron, who seemed to share this reckless passion, and we agreed to set out on Friday.

When I woke up Friday, the ground was still wet from an evening shower... but it wasn't pouring as the weather report suggested... before heading out the door I quickly re-checked my sources... still 90% chance of rain.

Yet, as we drove to Crane, patches of blue sky could be seen, and sure, it was overcast, but not dark, foreboding rain clouds, more like light, fluffy, nice clouds... Neither of us wanted to say those magic words "It's hasn't started raining yet" for fear of falling off the thin weather line we were riding.

The miracle had already begun.

We arrived at Crane and found mostly everything was dry! It made no sense, sure there was some wet rock, but most of it was climbable... weird. Still scared at the clouds that loomed above the trees and the fog that coated distant mountains, we got to climbing.

A few percipitationless hours later, we were at Swillin' through a headnet - V4. Probably one of the better problems at Boulderwoods. Aaron flashed, and in another strange act of the weather... something started to fall from the sky... what could it be? It wasn't rain, no it was... oh my god its snow. It was snowing. The first snow I had seen of the season.

Wow.

Even with the snow, it was less than a small flurry, we continued to climb a little longer. Aaron had been telling me about some huge, awesome looking boulders a little lower on the mountain, so we went to go look.

Wow.

What we found were huge, incredible boulders, despite Aaron having a camera in his pocket the WHOLE TIME we failed to take any pictures, so let me describe this to you. 20 foot 45 degree sections of grey, yellow and orange colored rock. Neon orange rock dotted with patina crimps, huge, dimpled slabs and incredibly sustained overhanging fingercracks. Giant caves littered with very hard lines on devious little crimps.

Unfortunatly we lacked the tools to clean these giant boulders, but during our search in the unknown we were suddenly face to face with a blue, taught wire that ran for several yards at the base of the hill... it lied very close to the ground, close enought to trip on. Aaron described how he was a little paranoid of things going BOOM if we touched the wire, so we tried our best to avoid it... weird.

Finally, the sun began to set, and we realized something, besides the few flakes of snow there was not 1 rain drop on this 90% chance of rain day... We had truly lucked out.

It seems the climbing gods shine upon those that dare to go out when no one else will and that dare to go where no one else has.

-WB

Happy Turkey Day

2009-11-26T10:11:00.000-05:00

Gravity Sucks

2009-11-23T21:01:00.003-05:00

Gravity DOES suck.
Ben, Kyle, Spook and I learned this disheartening fact at G.B. Saturday... well... maybe not Spook.

We started off at the probe, a boulder we haven't gone too in a while, and got to warming up. We all quickly set our sights on a cool, pumpy, crimpy traverse into the warm up. Spooky sent after a bunch of goes, and despite my best efforts (I got past the crux and fell on the "warm up" section) I did not send... damn pump. For the sake of this blog we'll call it Kettle Traverse - V5

Ben and Kyle gave a few goes at The Probe - V9, although unsuccessful, Ben is pretty psyched to get back on the cool little problem.

We then headed up to the main part of G.B. where Ben and Spook began to work on The Bump. After so... so... so... SO many tries, no one sent. Contrary to the video, Ben didn't start from the beginning... too bad.

I felt pretty rested and was ready to get in some goes at my long standing highball prize proj, Snooze Button. I made some good progress, but the Kettle Traverse had left my fingers tender and my forearms sore... although I worked out what I think is the top-out beta, it'll have to wait.

We decided to go search around for Two-Stroke... but, it was wet, so we settled on a problem in a small pit next to it, for the sake of this blog we'll call it Red Light - V7. Ben, upon looking at the heinously small crimps at the bottom of the problem, called it v11. I was pretty confident that was false, and Spook proved me right by sending the cool problem. Red Light is full of moves you would never find outdoor, crazy pinches, double kneebars, you name it.

Although no one sent anything, besides Spooky, it wasn't a bad day... still wish I had spent less time on Kettle and more time on Snooze. Anyways, check out the new video (I posted it on Vimeo for a change... tell me what you think?) and have a nice Thanksgiving. I'll be climbing all break :]

Gravity Sucks - Great Barrington from JP Whitehead on Vimeo.

-WB

Cravings

2009-11-19T12:58:00.001-05:00

WB Climbing Forecast - 11/18/09

2009-11-18T14:36:00.004-05:00

WHERE ARE WE GOING?
Right now, to be honest, I am not really sure... but we've got options...
I had really wanted to get to Boulderwoods once more before the harsh winds of winter set in, but after reviewing the weather for various locations... the Daks aren't looking so hot.

In addition to the daks, I looked at Great Barrington and the Gunks, so far, Great Barrington looks better.

WEATHER FORECAST:
At G.B... and everywhere else of note, rain is scheduled pretty much all day Friday. The only difference in G.B. is that it should be ending at a little before midnight, and the forecast for Saturday is partly cloudy all day. Other areas, including Boulderwoods, Nine Corners and McKenzie, show signs of rain on Saturday... some even say snow.

SHOULD WE CLIMB?
Depends on how the next few days play out. As of right now I would say G.B. is our best bet for dry rock on Saturday, it has pulled off miracle dryness in worse conditions, who's to say it won't this time? I'll keep my eye on the weather and post up anything new developments.

Until then, I would like to talk about commenting.

You. You read this blog right? Thats a rhetorical question, of course you read this blog. Now lets say you were putting a good deal of procrastination time into writing what you think is a fairly nice piece of work that you put a lot of thought into... wouldn't you want some feedback? Show me some love people! Or not! Whatever feelings you have for me or this blog or climbing or kittens just post it in the comment section! It's not that hard. Thanks for your time.

-WB

Night Bouldering

2009-11-16T17:04:00.000-05:00

On Tuesday morning, already psyched for the day off I was getting Wednesday for Veterans day, I got a text from my good friend Morgan...

"Were going night bouldering at Nine Corners tonight... you in?"

"Hell yes."

I had never been acquainted with the new, exciting and slightly frightening world of night bouldering, and as it would turn out, the motley crew I climbed with hadn't either. The night was full of stars, and the 50 degree air welcomed us into the woods.

My heart was beating faster than it usually would on the casual walk into Nine Corners, my world was based solely on what my headlamp flashed against... A tree, a boulder, eyes, more tree- wait... were those eyes? Oh, they were, and they were moving toward me... quickly.

Frozen in fear, I stared directly at this beast barreling towards me until...
My silent attacker wasn't some creature of the night, it was Buddy. One of the guys I was climbing with's dog.

Still, my heart had been stirred, in a good way, I knew this was going to be an interesting night and it had plenty more scares in store for me.

Nine Corners is a different world at night, without the aid of warm, refreshing sunlight, Boulders seem taller, falls seem longer and holds feel so much better. I hopped on Long Live Legos - V5, a cool, blocky arete that I had worked before, but never sent. After getting through the problems crux first move and small jump, I was on the top-out...

At night, you feel alone. More than ever before, it was just me and the boulder, I couldn't see the ground... or my spotter or single pad that sat below me, all I could see was what I hoped would be an alright hold on the arete just a few feet from my face. I threw, missed, and in a feat of intense terror, joy, excitement and pure emotion, I somehow managed to campus match my right hand... This fight was far from over.

Once again I threw for the hold, hit it, and carried out the top-out, trembling from fear.

I was hooked.
I now, officially, loved night bouldering.

The rest of the night flew by, and before we even knew it, we exhausted our 2 baguettes and (less importantly) our finger tips.

I think I can speak for the whole crew when I say night bouldering was exciting and peaceful, calm and intense, strangly pure and incredibly fun. I am eagerly awaiting the next text from Morgan, and to go back into the woods.

On the way out, I saw a strange mass coming out of the lake... oh god... not this again. Jokingly, I said to Morgan, "What is it!?". In reply (trying to be scary) she said, "It's the Nine Corners Seal!"

The ridiculous statement soothed my nerves and I was even more relieved to find it was just the dog again. It was the dog again, but I swear I saw something else swimming out in the lake... perhaps there is a Nine Corners Seal. Yeah, and he only graces his presence upon those brave enough to hike out into the woods late at night and do what they love.

Go, see for yourself.

-WB

Meaning of Life

2009-11-12T18:50:00.006-05:00

SPRAYDAY / CLIMBING FORECAST

2009-11-09T13:24:00.005-05:00

What!?
A Sprayday and a Climbing Forecast on the SAME POST...!?

This. Is incredible.

Lets start with...
THE SPRAY!

Ah the Carraige Road, I hadn't experienced your wonderful climbing in quite a while. Basically, last Saturday we rolled out to the Gunks to clean up all the projects that didn't go last season.

The day kicked off with Aaron sending Black Boulder - V5, a notable send no doubt. After we all gave some good goes at that problem, we went to a smaller, less aesthetic boulder next to it.

Black Head is listed in the guidebook as "V - Diculous". This grade is soo appropriate. Beta? Grab the pebbly sloper, top-out. Adam, Ben and I managed to complete this stupid human trick... it's actually pretty fun.

Next we moved down to the Meaning of Life Boulder.

I would like to allude back to one of the first posts where I talk about my long standing project, Meaning of Life. It had been a year and a half since I first gave goes at the problem. It had to go today... after a few tries,

I sent.
Yes.
YES.

Adam and Ben also sent and Adam flashed his project, The Following, right next to it. Good Day so far.

Aaron made another notable send that day with the CRUSHING of Marakesh Express - V6.
Good work bro.

After playing around by the Boxcar Boulder, we went way back to the beginning of the road to work on Jackson Pollock - V8. It was pretty fun, and maybe it'll go next time, but dwindling light, sore fngers and tired forearms forced us down the stair master and home.

I know this SPRAYDAY is late, but there are several reasons for that. Mostly, I had a really bad migrane yesterday, and the thought of staring into a computer screen made my head hurt even more.

One day late isn't so bad though... right? Sorry.

OKAY SO,

First off, I am going over to nine corners tonight for some NIGHT BOULDERING with morgan from the gym and some other people.

Second, we are heading to Snowy Mtn. tomorrow for some last minute sends before the snowy winter.

Third, this weekend there is a comp at metrorock. Should be fun.

Lastly, I have to go rake now... hope this is good enough for you Ben!

OH and once I get pictures from Spook I'll add more to this post...

-WB

WB Climbing Forecast - 11/4/09

2009-11-03T14:05:00.005-05:00

Sendtember is long gone, Roctober has fallen past us like the leaves on the trees, and now we find ourselves in the next conditionally wonderful month of Gnarvember... or No-Hand-Rest-vember?... Nubvember?... Obamawonanoblepeaceprizevember? Eh, whatever clever pun you come up with for this wonderful month (and please, show me those puns in the comments!) there is no doubt how awesome the month is for climbing.... and food.... can't forget that glorious food.

WHERE ARE WE GOING:
Carraige Road in the Gunks

WEATHER FORECAST:
The weather so far is calling for clear skies all day long. This, coupled with a nice looking day Friday, should produce the first qEXCELLENT climbing day in a long time.

SHOULD WE CLIMB:
Yes, yes, yes, ten times over yes!!! This is the day we've been waiting for and some serious sending shall be seen. Although this fall has failed us thus far with its rainy tendencies, I consider this weekend a gift from the climbing gods.... Lets make the best of it...

Also, I need to send meaning of life.
Also, Luke needs to get footy.

OTHER NEWS:
Not really any news, I'm writing this from my Comp Sci 1 Class though...
Mr. Baciewicz has told me to stop blogging a good 5 or 6 times now...
Also, I just decided that I'll try very hard to put a post out every Monday regarding the sends on Saturday. No longer shall Monday be Monday... now it shall be known as SPRAYDAY.
It's fun being organized!
Bye.

-WB

WB Climbing Forecast - 10/28/09

2009-10-28T15:23:00.003-04:00

BOO!

Well folks,
I've been waiting this one out, but since the weather status shows no signs of changing...

WHERE ARE WE GOING:
Carraige Road, Gunks
-OR-
Central Rock ABS Comp

WEATHER FORECAST:
Rain, rain, and yes, even more rain. It seems all over the country the wetness is ruining prime
Roctober time. Hell, I even saw someone's facebook status said "rain in the desert? I though that wasn't supposed to happen." Although wunderground.com calls for a few nice days before the weekend, saturday has 30-50% chance of rain all day.

SHOULD WE CLIMB:
No, no, no, ten times over, no. If the forecast changes and is only calling for rain in the morning, and wind, and sun in the afternoon then MAYBE we could climb... maybe. I doubt that will happen, so in the meantime plan for a trip out to Central Rock in Western Mass for some kick-ass halloween sends.

OTHER NEWS:
The home wall is going well, Adam hurt his back (but recovered), I finally mastered the delicate art of starting my DYNAFLEX POWERBALL!!! and life without a gym is moving slower than ever.

Halloween is coming up and I was wondering what are all ya'll plans for the big night?
-WB

Filter

2009-10-22T17:31:00.000-04:00

Dead Point Mag's got nothing on us.

Michael on Filter - V9

WB Climbing Forecast - 10/21/09

2009-10-21T17:32:00.000-04:00

Well, I'm not climbing this weekend.
Two weeks of no outdoor climbing?
And in FALL?
That's just lame.

But, the home wall is nice and cozy, and the new holds have already produced some pretty hard problems...

Not having a gym sucks though.

-WB

Lack of Forecast

2009-10-15T17:02:00.002-04:00

We're probably not climbing this weekend, therefor the forecast is no climbing. Sorry.

JP-CITY IS OPEN THOUGH
we gots dem new holds.

Check it

Check it

Check it

BIG UP FOR SAVINGS.

Word up, you know the flavor.
-WB

I heart G.B.

2009-10-11T15:07:00.006-04:00

Speed Boulder, Great Barrington.
Michael Penn on Roses and Bluejays - V13

G.B. never ceases to amaze me, from hundreds of quality problems in an amazing setting (with more potential, both in routes and problems) to somehow drying up completely in a few hours.

After a night of rain that ended at around 3:30AM Saturday totaling 0.5 inches of rain, G.B. was of course soaked when we arrived at around 10:30. After scouting around a bit, we found that the Shade Boulder was dry and began warming up.

A cool shot of JP on Shade - V5

I took a couple laps on shade, as did ben, and Michael/Adam/Sandra worked on sending the fun little V5. After a lot of frustration, Michael and the rest of us began working the SUPER BURLY HARD SIT DOWN START. We worked on beta, and we found some that may work, problem is there is a rock that your heel constantly dabs on. No, I'm not promoting the disturbance of nature, but I'm just saying that if someone accidently dropped a hammer on a crow bar in a crack on the rock and then fell on the crowbar so that it dislodged the piece you dab on, I wouldn't complain.

Check da pics:

The really hard sitdown start crux.

After some good progress we decided to check on the dryness of things. We moved up to my project Snooze Button - V5. Its highball, crimping awesomness. Ben meanwhile was working the Sitdown to Fotowah - V11. We both made progress, and Adam gave his first goes at Snooze.

JP entering the airy section of Snooze Button - V5

Next, Ben, Michael and Sandra headed over to the Speed Boulder. Adam and I stayed back to catch some footy of Bromance - V5 and for Adam to try and send the awesome problem. Although Adam gave some serious effort, and nearly kicked me in the face a dozen times, the problem remains unrepeated!

CHECK OUT THE VIDEO HERE

Then came the AMAZING Speed Boulder. This incredible boulder showcases a beautiful, overhanging, featured front wall, split by tons of cracks that produce awesome crimps and ledges to stab your fingers into.

The last move dyno on Roses and Bluejays - V13

The climbing on this face is hard, infact, some of the hardest in the Northeast. On this one wall there are problems from V8 to V13 (with a really hard project). Michael was working the signature route of the boulder, Roses and Bluejays - V13, while Ben started trying Something from Nothing - V11. Sandra worked an Unknown Problem on the right side of the boulder (probably like V3?) for a while, until Adam and I showed up and moved up on the hill to the funky Heel Hook Problem - V4.

Ben working Something from Nothing - V11

Michael working Roses and Bluejays - V13

Ben made seriously good progress for a problem that was shutting him down on his first goes, Michael almost held the last move dyno of Roses, and I sent the Heel Hook Problem.

As the day continued, Adam and I spotted a cool looking arete on a small cliff band behind the Heel Hook Problem, Adam flashed it and I got it third go. Really fun, probably V3, last move crux.

There wasn't a hint of moisture and the skies were blue at the end of the day in Great Barrington. A day that could have been disastrous turned out pretty good.

-WB

WB Climbing Forecast #1 - 10/7/09

2009-10-07T13:31:00.005-04:00

WHERE ARE WE GOING?:
Great Barrington Saturday, Gunks possibly Monday.

WEATHER FORECAST:
Rain all day friday till VERY early on Saturday (2AM).
Winds supposed to pick up all day Saturday reaching a high of 13 MPH.
Temperatures are staying relative low all day (50-60), and by 2PM it's supposed to be clear.
Sunday would be better, but rides are an issue on Sunday.

Check it.

EDIT:
there is hope!
CHECK IT.

SHOULD WE CLIMB?:
G.B. has a reputation for being okay to climb when it rains, but it depends on how much rain the area receives on Friday. The high winds and sun will help the drying process, depending on how early rain stops. I would say if there is a low amount of precipitation, and it ends before 5AM Saturday, G.B. would be great to climb in.
Sunday would be better, but I think Saturday would be a good climbing day.

CONCLUSION:
IF the stars align I'll give G.B. a 75% chance of AWESOME climbing Saturday and 90% chance on Sunday.

If you wanna join us, contact me (JP Whitehead) on Facebook, in the comments or through my email: weekendbouldering@gmail.com

OTHER NEWS:
BEN IS CRUSHING!!!! He's sent Jackson Pollock - V8, Dragon Turns - V9 and New Pair of Glasses - V7. Wow.

Also, I'll be posting the WB Climbing Forecast every Wednesday including where were climbing this upcoming weekend, weather info, news and any new climbing photos.

ORGANIZATION BISHES
-WB

JP-City Opening Week

2009-10-05T13:29:00.003-04:00

Problem: Your home gym closed this year, and after a summer full of climbing outside, you find yourself going slowly crazy from climbing withdrawal. You would do anything to go climbing, but alas, how are you going to get your fix?!

Solution: Build a home wall.

Example: JP-City Rock Gym

Oh hell yes, after weeks of my only excitement coming from clicking the "SEND" button on my email, (I consistantly say SEEEENNNNDDD! to myself when I press it), I have successfully made a sick climbing wall in my garage. Check the pics yo.

Details: Basically if you have any holds that you don't need I will gladly take them. In turn, you'll receive a lifetime membership to my home wall. Yeah, can't beat that deal.

If you wanna come climb, call me up or send me some email at weekendbouldering@gmail.com

I'm always game for some sending.

If any of you know me from E-City, you know I was on top of the setting in the bouldering room. I also happen to be on top of the setting at JP City Rock Gym, so come climb and help celebrate the opening week of JP CITY ROCK GYM!!!!! YEAAAAHH!!!
-WB

The Rendezvous

2009-09-30T21:22:00.002-04:00

FINALLY SOME CLIMBING!
And a whole lot of it...

Last Saturday Kyle, Ben, Spook and I headed out to some place in Western Mass for the WESTERN MASS CLIMBERS COALITION RENDEZVOUS THING (see below). Because no one in our group had never heard of the place all of our expectations were deteremined by two blurry shots on the new england bouldering website and a flier that ensured a bouldering competition.

After two weeks without climbing, this amount of information was enough to keep me psyched for days.

Finally, it was that brisk and beautiful Saturday morning, and off we went to Wendell State Forest. The very first thing we encountered when we arrived must have been foreshadowing to the strange form of climbing we were going to be doing during the rest of the day. We pulled up, and there to great us was a 180 pound Great Dane. This beast came up to my elbows when standing on all fours. and on two feet it was probably taller than me. To sum it up, this animal (more horse than dog) was named bob.

Now you may wonder what was so strange about this day. Why was it not like any other outdoor climbing festival? Well, the answer can be summed up more by a grade than a word or a sentence... V0. That's right, the mother of all moderates.

Let me put this in perspective for you. You set 109 problems for a competition. 80% of those problems are below V2. The only logical way to make a competition work? Quantity over quality my friends. Each problem, regardless of grade, was worth 2 points. Lets get started.

After warming up on several (about 25) moderates from VFun to V3, we reached a very notable problem called B Roof - V5. This sick line came out a low roof (lay down start) and had a wide variety of climbing to a crux top-out. Check the Pics below.

Burl.

You see where his feet are? thats where the problem starts... Yeah...

CRUX TOP-OUT EPICNESS!!!!

We then hit up some more moderates. We met up with a kid named Keagan we had climbed with at comps and he, Ben and I sunk into a unique climbing mindset in which climbing in our hiking shoes and packs without a pad became acceptable. Polishing off moderates left and right, our points climbed higher and higher until we reached another notable problem called Birds Nest - V4. This SICK line climbs out a small roof, through a beastly throw off a crimp to a crux last move. That last move had me shut down for a good ten tries until I sent. Yay.

We moved towards the final area and after doing a few cool slab problems, Ben and I sunk back into our speed climbing mindset. We were litterally sprinting from problem to problem in our climbing shoes (an act that would later leave me unable to touch my beet-red toes the next day), sending everything we could.

There were a few cool climbs along the way, but there was no time to stop and marvel at them, hurry, run to the downclimb and hop on something else! I swear the sun is getting lower.

This mindset carried us all the way till the end of the comp.

The tally?
Ben climbed 68 problems for a total of 136
I climbed 60 problems for a total of 120
The rest of the crew (FOOLS) were more focused on the quality climbing.
Psh... they have no clue.

Ben got pity third behind a ton of uber strong people and the next day I was more sore than I have ever been ever.
-WB

Go to this:

2009-09-22T13:40:00.002-04:00

Fall Sucks

2009-09-19T21:52:00.002-04:00

What JP!?!
No! Fall doesn't suck, the temps are great, snow hasn't fallen, and those leaves make great extra padding.

Right, they do make great padding, and the temps are great, and fall would be awesome, but, school happens. And lets put it this way, when you have school everyday till 3:00, no gym to climb at and a sun that decides to duck its head at around 7:00, Fall sucks.

Everyday in school I would daydream about where I wanted to go during the weekend... climbing wise, of course... and every night I would dream about climbing. Unfortunately, I am on my second week without climbing currently and I'm starting to see how this sport is like an addiction to some crazy hard drug.

-You try it because you think it's fun or a friend suggests it
-Most likely you may first try it with your friends
-You start doing it more and more
-People think you are crazy when you tell them about it
-Your friends consist mainly of other people who do it
-(In extreme cases)You find yourself sleeping on things that weren't meant to be slept on just to get a power nap in before you head off to find your next fix, eating nothing but cheesepuffs.

Coincidentally, the same symptoms apply to World of Warcraft users.

Yes, this blog post is negative, but that's my life right now. I come home from school and get a daily pump hanging on the molding of door frames. As fellow climbers, I hope you can relate, everyday I am not climbing is directly proportional to how badly I want to climb.

I mean, just look at this post! The only reason I am posting it is because talking about climbing is as close as I can get to climbing at the moment.

It's 10:04 PM on a Saturday and the fact that my non-throbbing fingers don't scream or secrete some strange fluid every time I type a letter is bothering me. Is that sick? Maybe. Am I okay with that? Yeah.

What happens to you guys when you don't climb?
Discuss plz.

In other news this guy Joel who took some pictures of the Boulderwoods Comp has not sent them to us yet... I'm waiting. Uhm... Murph hurt a digit and is out for a little. Last I heard, Ben and Nyle have been crushin' in New Paltz daily. If anyone is headin' out to climb, please, please contact me.

5189441080.
My name is JP, I have a pad, I am a great motivator.
I have an extra pair of shoes (they have holes)
Size 8. Or 7 1/2... I'm too lazy to check.

I guess that's all folks.

If you are Jewish thank you so much for your wonderful holidays.
I get to climb 3 days in a row next weekend.

-WB

Why is he climbing a mountain?

2009-09-11T16:39:00.003-04:00

Alright, well, in a change of what we usually post up here on WB. I figured I would put up some media that isn't mine. 'Why we climb' is a big question. And honestly its extremely hard to put to words.

HOWEVER!

If anyone were to provide a generally excepted reason, I would want that person to be william shatner. And I would want him to spray it down over a sick techno beat.

HIT IT!

Why am I climbing the mountain? ...because I'm in love.

Competition at Boulderwoods Saturday

2009-09-10T17:37:00.000-04:00

Saturday outdoor comp. at Boulderwoods on Crane Mountain.
Be there.

I don't know if there's prizes, but there are rocks to be climbed. That's good enough for me.

SEE YA THERE!
-WB

60 Boulderers at P-Kill

2009-09-08T15:10:00.000-04:00

As we approached the outbreak boulder at Peterskill in the Gunks, we were taken aback by the mass of people climbing. Yes, 60 boulderers had gathered for the great conditions and some good climbing. We started working several different problems, Ben flashed The Classic One - V5. Next we moved up to Village Idiot - V7. Everyone, especially Spook, made great progress on the problem, but moods were slightly damaged after Spooky took a nasty fall.

After a little work on Mad Lion - V7, we moved over to the Mentos Boulder for work on the cool aretes there. Adam and I made great progress on Delicate Soul and Tiger Style, both good V7's.

And then we were burned out.

In other news, I am working with Western Mass. Climbers Coalition to make a guidebook for the Reservoir Rocks in Great Barrington. I'll put up some more details later. If anyone has any information on set names, boulder names, route names, first ascents and such please get in contact with me at weekendbouldering@gmail.com

Also, I seem to have lost my camera... hence the lack of pictures...

-WB

Can't Stop

2009-09-03T15:27:00.004-04:00

Perhaps its the lack of me scaling rocks in my life right now or maybe it's just that I have nothing better to do, but I cannot stop bloggin'! Consider this like some sort of little present. This may be the first time I've ever posted new stuff 3 days in a row!
WOO!

Problem is there isn't much to talk about. I was thinking of posting up some more pictures, stuff never seen on the blog. And maybe I will, but, that's sort of boring. Instead I'm going to make my top five favorite problems list.

This is in no particular order.

1. Bromance - V5
I was drawn to the line every time we went to G.B., but we never got on it! And the one night we did I was shocked at how hard it was. I didn't think I could make the crux jump move, but I pulled some strength out of nowhere and got the F.A. of a really cool line.

2. Drop the Clutch - V5
Not sure why I like this one. I just do. I think mainly I like it because rarely on a problem do you have so many consecutive V5 moves without the grade being higher. This problem is incredibly sustained, and very different.

3. Thrust Vault - V3
From a cool beginning section to a committing last move and top-out, this problem has always had a place in my heart.

4. Coitus - V6
This one made the list because of a couple different things. First of all, it's a beautiful line of huecos and crimps. Second, the moves are incredibly fun. And lastly, the day I sent I took a bad fall and was extremely discouraged, but it was nice to know that I could pull myself back together.

5. Green Goddess - V7
Of course this makes my list, it was my first V7 and probably my first real project. Those are most of the reasons its one of my favorites.

Comment and list your top 5 please.
Discuss.
-WB

So much trouble

2009-09-02T10:43:00.002-04:00

After so much trouble,
this.
is.
the.
real.
thing.
I Promise.
-WB

Yeah...

2009-09-01T18:52:00.002-04:00

So we haven't had a new video in a month...

Call it me being nice, generous or just extremely bored and wanting to do something vaguely climbing related, but later tonight I'm gonna post up a new video from way back during the ADK Bouldering Weekend.

The first ever WeekendBouldering/GoldenCrimp video of Nine Cornered Lake.
Feat. Izzy, Aaron, JP, Ben, Kyle and Adam on Meat and Potatoes, Thorazine and Origin.

You're welcome.
-WB

Bromance

2009-09-01T12:45:00.002-04:00

After a couple weeks of non-bouldering (roped climbing), Kyle, Adam and I rolled out to G.B. for some nighttime, late summer sends. Someone was missing from the crew however, that someone was Benjamin Horgen.

That's right, our beloved Ben is off to college in New Paltz, a fitting setting for the young crusher. Although we haven't met up with him yet down there we hear he's doing well... he sent the hardest problem in the gym in two tries.

Anyway, the whole crew had to overcome our feelings for Ben for a sick day of climbing at G.B... I don't know if you remember, but last time we went to G.B. we were attacked by a HORRENDOUS amount of mosquitoes. This time was no better, the little blood suckers were relentless would swarm the forearms and faces of whoever was climbing. Just another obstacle for the E-City crew to overcome.

We started our day at two boulders that Adam and I had found a cleaned a while back. They both have lines that haven't been done yet on them and we were hoping to nab some FA's. We started on a great problem called Closer - V3. Its a very cool problem in that the crux involves soft slopers reminescent of the south and rarely found in Great Barrington. Kyle and I hadn't sent yet, but after a few goes we both got the fun little line.

After a few goes on the ridiculous eliminate project Further - V?, which is on the same boulder as Closer, we headed over to another project that climbs a slightly overhung face out a small pit. From the looks of it I thought the problem would be easy, but it proved me wrong. We started taking goes in the pit only to find we were a little scared of the slightly sketchy fall. We discovered that the best way to protect on the problem was to put a spotter in the pit with you to guide you from falling onto either of the two rocks that form the pit. Needless to say, this made the situation in the pit very... close. Lets just say there was some serious spotter - climber bromance going on.

The route turned out to be a tad tricky. Smaller fingers help on this route due to the small slot you crimp down on. After attaining a nice sidepull via a kneebar or a high foot, you gear up for a very dynamic move to a small ledge. This shut our team down for a while as missing the ledge would definatelycause an interesting fall. But after feeling the move with Adam giving me a little weight, I knew it was very possible. On my last go, I wasn't thinking about the fall, or sending, or anything for that matter besides the move, and that's when I sent.

We named the problem Bromance - V5 after the spotting situation and also for our friend Ben. WE MISS YOU BEN! It's a SICK problem and if you're ever in the area it's up and right of the warm-up boulder infront of a very cool looking roof, to the left of Closer and Further and coming out of a small pit. If you go to The Optimist - V11 you've gone too far.

As the hours ticked away and the sun started to set, we moved up to The Platform Problem - V6. Kyle and Adam had been working this route for quite some time and were hoping to send the cool line today. As golden light splashed over the rock, Adam and Kyle began taking goes. After a little Adam sent using some new top-out beta just as the sun was setting. Nice send man. Kyle got wicked close, but couldn't unlock the feet.

After a few goes on Pistol Grip - V6+ we headed out of the G.B. woods in the dark. A good day... even if Ben wasn't there.
-WB